โMay-04-2015 08:38 PM
โMay-05-2015 09:10 PM
โMay-05-2015 08:48 PM
โMay-05-2015 02:46 PM
Wet Coast wrote:
Hi all, something to consider is charging those suckers back up once they are drained. Drawing down 440 ah to 1/2 way is roughly 200 amps of charge to have to gain back.
โMay-05-2015 02:21 PM
โMay-05-2015 08:58 AM
โMay-05-2015 06:06 AM
โMay-05-2015 05:08 AM
โMay-05-2015 04:02 AM
โMay-04-2015 09:56 PM
Golden_HVAC wrote:
No matter how much you conserve, you can not drop below about 35 AH on a typical RV battery draw.
โMay-04-2015 09:13 PM
Golden_HVAC wrote:
Hi,
The 600 watt probably will handle the job just fine. The 1000 watt will consume more power to run the same load that running a smaller inverter near it's full rated load.
I found that out running my TV and satellite dish. When using my built in 1500 watt inverter, my total draw might be 8 amps, but changing to the 300 watt inverter will use a total of about 5.8 - 6 amps. It has much smaller transformer, and smaller capacitors, ect, so not nearly as much parasitic draw.
A pair of 6 volt batteries are the minimum with that load. Anything smaller, and the voltage will 'dip' to far when starting the compressor, and you might never recover, unless the engine is on, or you have a huge solar system that is putting out more than say 20 amps!
80 watt load - figure about 8 amps from the battery into the inverter into the load.
Your propane CO leak detectors team up to use about 1 amp per hour, or about 20 AH daily. No matter how much you conserve, you can not drop below about 35 AH on a typical RV battery draw. With your electric refrigerator, add about 80 amp hours daily, and you will be good. So yes you 'could' go boondocking, with about 3 solar panels - this place has 140 watt on sale for $229 recently.
SunElec.comp
Have fun camping!
Fred.
โMay-04-2015 09:00 PM
Porsche or Country Coach!
If there's a WILL, I want to be in it!