leveling

[Gray_Fox]

What is the best way to level a 5th/W from side to side, I know the auto-level is the best, but the next best thing is what. Maybe some one out there has a better way than me, I use small blocks.

[DutchmenSport]

drwwicks: "In addition to a few sections of the 2x8 I also carry a few 1x8 to fine tuned the level. The get used under the tires and jacks when a 2x8 is too thick."

I carry a bunch of lumber with me, pretty much all the time. All are 2x6 or 2x8 boards. I've considered carrying 1x? for some time, but some how just never tossed one in my pile. Probably because everything I'm using is treated lumber and I've been using these same boards for the last 20 years, beginning from my pop-up camper days. Maybe some day I'll finally get a treated 1x? scrap I can toss in my mix.

Meanwhile, I found that with tandem axles, if a 2x? is placed under both tires on one side, and its off just about a 1x? height, I can usually put a 2x? under one tire on top of the longer board under it. This raises one wheel by 2 inches (approximately) and the over all lift on the camper on that side equals to about the 1 inch (half). Anyway, for me, this works pretty well. I suppose if I had the 1x? boards, I could fine tune it to a 1/2 inch variance.

But, I've also found that just tightening the leveling jacks good and tight will atone for that extra 1/2 inch too.

Anyway, this is good advise, carry the 1x? along with you also.

I still say, there is nothing better than good old treated lumber under your tires. Solid, makes a nice foot print, doesn't sink in the ground (especially if parking on grass or dirt, and especially if on dirt or grass and expecting rain). Hallow linkx Lego blocks will require the first layer on the ground to sink an inch as that edge settles into the ground. On pavement it will work OK, but on asphalt, all that weight on those sharp edges, could cause the asphalt to dimple too. That's why I've always stuck with nice heavy lumber. (and yes, I did try the Lego Blocks and didn't like them).

But, we all do it our own way, and there is nothing wrong with that. That's the beauty of this life style, there is no right or wrong, it's just "different" for every person. All we can do is share our experiences and maybe someone will find a different or a more convenient way form them to do it too.

The down side of carrying lumber is the space it requires. But I have no problem with my pick-up truck with the shell on the bed with the side tool boxes with 2 shelves on each side the entire length of the 8 foot shell. That's 32 feet of shelf space. That carries a LOT of lumber that takes no space form the floor of the bed of the truck or the inside of the camper!

To each his own... Happy camping!

[drwwicks]

In addition to a few sections of the 2x8 I also carry a few 1x8 to fine tuned the level. The get used under the tires and jacks when a 2x8 is too thick.

[WTP-GC]

I've always carried long boards, short boards, and the Andersen Levelers. I used to used the Andersen Levelers exclusively when going on short trips. I always felt that you couldn't beat the simplicity. Then one day, I must have tried those things a dozen times and they wouldn't stay in place, so I haven't used them since. Mainly now I use one long board PLUS short boards on top as needed. I haven't used the Andersens in a long time.

bpounds wrote:

I've never understood why people would carry long pieces. There is no benefit to having a single piece of lumber stretch between tires. Take that same long piece of lumber and cut it into 12" or 16" pieces and they are much more useful and easier to handle.

Short boards are fine on hard ground, but I have them sink on softer ground. They can sink at the time of setup or they can settle a little after setup (which is far more aggravating). If you put down one long board, it isn't as likely to sink, and if it does, you can still have a uniform flat surface to place other boards on for leveling.

[fj12ryder]

I tried the Lynx Levelers, but I never really liked those little circles for the tires to rest on, the flat yellow ones just seemed like they give the tires support over a larger are. But it does seem that the Lynx Levelers are tougher and harder to break. Just in my head, but personal preference.

[RAS43]

I use 2x8 boards, each about 12" long as others do. Sometimes a board under each tire on 1 side works, sometimes only 1 under 1 tire is enough. Rarely do I need more but at one particular campground I need 2 boards under each tire on the low side. For this site I have made a step up with 2 boards screwed together. I tried the yellow blocks but have had too many break over the years and wood is usually free.
I have bubble levels moounted at the left front corner of my trailer where the leg control is to determine side to side and front to back leveling.

[ependydad]

Here's an article on how to level a trailer:
http://learntorv.com/rv-leveling-is-really-quick-and-easy/

And, my preference of blocks are the LynxLevelers:
http://learntorv.com/lynxlevelers/

[bpounds]

I carry about 10 pieces of these. 2 x 8 x about 1 foot long. They happen to be pressure treated, but I don't think that matters. I use them as shown for leveling, and also put them under stabilizer jacks and landing gear when needed.

I've never understood why people would carry long pieces. There is no benefit to having a single piece of lumber stretch between tires. Take that same long piece of lumber and cut it into 12" or 16" pieces and they are much more useful and easier to handle.

[BarneyS]

DutchmenSport wrote:
Snip...
Yes.... this works as good as any bubble level, and no guessing where level is REALLY level for the bubble to install it oriignally.

Snip...

Yep. Unless the wind is blowing! :W :B

[centerline]

I will park where the trailer is at its most level, and then I use a tri-leveler..
I have a triple axle trailer so I have three of the wedge shaped tri-levelers, but I had to cut the short end off of two of them so that they would fit between the wheels so I could drive up on them, as they were longer than the wheel spacing.

most times I only need one, but sometimes two of them... rarely do I need all three to bring the trailer level.... but I also carry extra blocking that I have had to use when we were reduced to staying in the most unlevel site in a campground...

I used to always use wood blocking, but it often breaks so it needs replenished sometimes, and is always dirty when its is wet or placed on gravel...
I then tried the lynx levelers, but in my opinion, they are too time consuming when setting up and when putting away....
by using only 2 easy to handle and use tri-levelers, I have enough height options about 95% of the time... and if one pays attention to where they park, one tri-leveler will work 70% of the time...

the more axles you have, the harder it is to get level, and the more important it is to have the easiest to use blocking to do it.

[dapperdan]

On our Montana we used to travel with a 2" X 10" X 5' board, I would lay it down on the "low" side of the trailer and back up onto it. If we needed more correction I would place 2" X 6" chunks under the 5' board to bring us up to level.

Now we have the 6 point level up system and just push a button and watch the trailer do it's thing. :B We LOVE it!

Dan

[DutchmenSport]

Well, there's several different ways to determine if the trailer is level side-to-side. One of the easiest and but not always the most available, is to eye-ball a building in the back ground. Then using the side of your camper (the end or the edge), eye ball the vertical (up and down) lines of the building (a corner for example) and the vertical lines of the camper (the corner for example). When the 2 are parallel, you are level side-to-side. However, if the building is leaning, the trailer will be leaning too. (this happened once to me when I tried to eye-ball level with an old barn. Wow, was I off kilter!

Another way is to use a simple carpenters level at the door frame. Hold the level upright against the door jam. Once it's level side to side, then turn the square 90 degrees on edge, and level front to back. Of course, this means getting out of the tow vehicle and running back to the door. But if the door is level side to side and end-to-end, the rest of the trailer is straight.

Still another way, and this is an idea I created.

On the front of my trailer is a vertical line. I put a piece of tape, up and down on that line. The line is straight to the trailer being on the front end cap.



I then put a hook inside the shell on the back of my pick-up truck and with a simple stick with an eye hook, it dangles from the back window. I can see it from inside the cab.

As gravity always pulls straight down, the in the window will always be straight. Once the tape on the trailer is parallel to the stick, I know the trailer is level side-to-side.





And yes, the photo above clearly shows the camper is leaning a bit to the driver side. This works as good as any bubble level, and you never have to try to figure out where that starting point is to install a bubble level. This method is by far the best I've found. But it does take a bit of patience to wait for the stick to quit swinging.

If you do not have a shell on your truck because you are towing a 5er, you can accomplish the same thing by hanging a simple string with a weight inside the cab of your truck. Place it behind you, or in view of your rear view mirror. When the weighted string and the mark on your camper are parallel, you know the trailer side to side.

Yes.... this works as good as any bubble level, and no guessing where level is REALLY level for the bubble to install it oriignally.

If you are asking about what is used under the tires to to make the trailer level... well ... I use nothing but lumber ... real lumber of different lengths that can be stacked on top of each other. In the past, I've had to raise one side of the camper 8-9 inches. Solid, treated lumber for me, and nothing else.

[amxpress]

I have a couple of 2" X 8" boards that are 4' long. I screwed a handle on each of their sides. I keep them in the bed when traveling. During our recent 5500 mile trip, I occasionally needed to place one board under the two tires on a side side to level my trailer. I have a small bubble level I set on the floor inside the door. Only once did I have to use both boards to level out. It's work for me and that's all that matters.

[MarkTwain]

Use a regular carpenter level, 3 to 4 ft. Set it on your kitchen drain, the floor or on the Island top if you have one. Back the trailer up to the spot you want, then check your level bubble, if not level then pull forward and then place your leveling blocks on the low side. Start with 1" levelers at a time. repeat the process until trailer is level.
Your second option is a "Level Master with mounting bracket" on the front of your 5th wheel hitch. Each bubble mark represents 1 inch, so you can tell how many levers you have to put under the tires to level the trailer. Camping World has some new levelers that are much wider than the usual small yellow plastic levers. It makes it much easier to back your tires onto the levels.

[shadows4]

I use the Anderson levelers. Works well.