Max rim PSI

[Eyetattoo]

I noticed that my rims have a max PSI of 65 lbs but I have always run at 70-75 psi with Maxxis Load E tires. I run at 70 psi because the trailer has a max weight of 11k lbs. Should I be concerned about what is stamped on the rim? I would really like to run them at 80psi......

[mapguy]

64thunderbolt wrote:
if you are ever in an accident the investigators will find it.

Correct on an accident with fatality. No death involved, might not even see a Leo respond.

[mapguy]

norfla71 wrote:
I've thought about running higher than "E" on my TH; it's a 6 lug and those tires are made for 8. After reading through this, I'm thinking it would be safer to just convert to an 8 lug hub and get the proper wheel and tire combination, maybe a 17.5.

16x6 6 on 5.5 modular steel wheels with a 3760 weight capacity are commonly available. Why spend the money on brake drums and wheels to achieve a G rated tire on 5.2 or 6k axles.

[KATOOM]

Reading this thread, I have a triple axle with 15" 6 lug aluminum rims too. There is no stamping on them regarding max air psi but there is stamping indicating their rated for 2830 lbs max. I run E rated Maxxis tires at 80 psi, and they've been like that since they were mounted at the tire shop.

I always understood that ST trailer tires are supposed to be inflated to their maximum rated psi all the time. You not supposed to run the air pressure in ST tires in accordance to the weight of the trailer, like you can with LT tires. Dont need the the rated capacity at the max air psi then run a lighter rated tire. ST tire construction is completely different than LT tires, and ST tires are designed to hold the lateral load more than the directional load. Running them at lower than max psi simply causes heat build up in the tire casing and failure.

By the way, how are you liking your Maxxis tires?

[norfla71]

I've thought about running higher than "E" on my TH; it's a 6 lug and those tires are made for 8. After reading through this, I'm thinking it would be safer to just convert to an 8 lug hub and get the proper wheel and tire combination, maybe a 17.5.

[64thunderbolt]

if you are ever in an accident the investigators will find it.

[Eyetattoo]

BoonHauler wrote:
Wow, no one mentioned that if inspected by a LEO, the GVW would be calculated from the rim rating (lower) than the E tire rating (3042 lbs)

To be honest, unless the officer has the ability to take the tire off the wheel they wouldnt know the rating.

It looks like I'll be dropping the psi to 65 from 70, next time I replace the tires I'll be looking to swap out wheels aswell. . . . .

[Eyetattoo]

Chuck&Gail wrote:
I've seen folks WAY overload tires also. Doesn't make it safe. You are certainly more of a gambler than I am, running rims at 80 psi is a TWENTY THREE PERCENT OVERLOAD. Hope when a wheel blows we are not near you, you scare me.

Just saying.

I said I would like to run them at 80 psi, not that I am. I have them at 70 psi now, 8% over.

[BoonHauler]

Wow, no one mentioned that if inspected by a LEO, the GVW would be calculated from the rim rating (lower) than the E tire rating (3042 lbs)

[JIMNLIN]

ksg5000 wrote:

Eyetattoo wrote:
So if I run them at 65 psi will that cause any tire heat issues on the E rated tire?

No

I've found that a heavy wall E tire run hotter at 65 psi than at 80 psi. May as well stick with a D tire and run max pressures. The tire will thank you.

points to ponder from the RVdoctor.com"

(snipped) Trailers are simply hard on tires and wheels. Whenever there are axles close together the lateral forces applied to the tires and wheels when turning are tremendous. This is particularly true when turning at low speeds like in campgrounds and in-town driving. Inflating trailer tires to the sidewall pressure will help them run cooler with less heat buildup as well as minimize the lateral forces applied in tight turn situations. These forces take their toll on the wheels and tires and failure will normally occur when the tire and wheel are at their highest temperature, i.e. running at highway speeds. Tires and wheels are matched to work together, in most cases this is based on air pressure ratings, if tires upgraded from an 80psi (load range E) to the 120psi (load range G) without upgrading wheels it could cause a problem. There is little one can do about the sideways forces other than to try to make as wide and smooth low speed turns as possible and avoid sharp tight turns. (snipped)

[ksg5000]

Eyetattoo wrote:
So if I run them at 65 psi will that cause any tire heat issues on the E rated tire?

No

[Chuck_Gail]

I've seen folks WAY overload tires also. Doesn't make it safe. You are certainly more of a gambler than I am, running rims at 80 psi is a TWENTY THREE PERCENT OVERLOAD. Hope when a wheel blows we are not near you, you scare me.

Just saying.

[coolbreeze01]

I'd check with a reputable tire shop, but weak rims on any trailer is bad business, and a rim rated at only 65lbs is weak imo.

[JIMNLIN]

"SOME" 15" wheels that come with D tires are rated up to 70-75 psi. They work fine at their max psi.

I've pulled commercially for many years and its been my experience that steel wheels that are over pressured can and do split usually around the wheels bead seat flange. Older wheels with lots of use are more suspect.
I've seen aluminum wheels crack in the wells or the flange from using above recommended pressures.
IMO use the right wheel for the tires pressure and capacity ratings.

[Eyetattoo]

So if I run them at 65 psi will that cause any tire heat issues on the E rated tire?

[fj12ryder]

What do you think they mean when they say "Maximum Pressure"? If you would read those 2 words, "Maximum Pressure", you could answer your own question.