New flooring on 2008 WW

[Windowman]

We decided to pull out the carpeting since it was the original and pretty beat up.
We are looking at some sort of water proof vinyl floor, what kind have any of you done?
My main concern is on the kitchen/living slide out. It is just over 1” higher than the main floor when it’s out all the way. Have any of you changed the flooring and if so what if anything did you do with the height difference?
I was considering finding smaller rollers and see if that might work? Any ideas?

Thanks

[Windowman]

My bad It is the snap lock type flooring that she is looking at, and yes we will be doing the work ourselves since I’m in construction and have been a licensed contractor for the past 29 years, my buddy the flooring guy said he would come help me and all I need is the beer cooler full.

I’ll get some pictures and then post them up. I know I probably won’t be able to get it flush but would like to get it down as much as I can. This one has linoleum on the kitchen side and had carpet on the other half and in the slide with a flap that covered the gap. There are rollers under the slide that drop into a trough and drops it about an inch. If I can drop it I know I need to get a bigger top flap to seal the top.
I’ll get some pictures and post them up.

[Grit_dog]

Can't help you on your conundrum with the slide floor height. Partly because I don't understand how both "floors" could ever be flush since the slide has to, well, slide.

I'll second LVP, snap lock type flooring. I don't know why anyone would consider "linoleum" in sheet form or squares.
Price, durability, water "resistance" (lol for the 2nd grader student reply above), appearance and it's literally the easiest stuff ever to install.

[Windowman]

Yes I did mean water resistant. Our main concern is trying to alleviate that 1 inch since it’ll be a tripping hazard. Is there a reason why they put the rollers on the slide out itself instead of on the frame because this would make it so it easier so the slide could be lowered.

[dedmiston]

Hey Windowman - Which WW model do you have? It's funny that I still think of an '08 WW as one of the "newer" models. It's too bad they couldn't survive the downturn.

Not to be Debbie Downer, but have you researched the weight of the material you're looking at?

A few months ago I brought home a pallet of vinyl flooring from Lowes and it literally bottomed out the springs on my dually and I felt like I was doing a wheelie the whole way home. I couldn't believe that a little pallet of flooring was heavier than the pin weight of our 45' fifth wheel. Granted you wouldn't use that much material for your WW, but it was still much heavier than I would have expected.

The carpeting that you're removing, is that just the roll-up carpeting from the living area? Or did yours actually have permanent carpeting in it? Our old 2004 FS2600 had linoleum in the kitchen and bath and a painted wood floor in the living area that was covered when we rolled out the carpet. Our kids and dogs were pretty hard on that carpet, but we replaced it once during the nine years we owned it.

Do you have any pics of yours?

I love to see people maintaining and restoring their Warriors. A new tenant just showed up in the space behind mine at the storage yard and I can tell he's done some work on his Superlite.

[theoldwizard1]

Windowman wrote:

We are looking at some sort of water proof vinyl floor, ...

There is no such thing as a "water proof" flooring. Water resistant, yes.

If the subfloor is wood or other organic material a roof/window leak will still damage it.

Several years ago, several manufacturers tried non-organic (some type of foam) flooring. It was a disaster ! They believed the manufacturers and did not add additional bracing. Flexing caused these subfloors to call over a few years.

[BurbMan]

OK you didn't mention you were having sheet vinyl pro installed, DIYers on here (like me) use the piece goods like LVP. The slide is designed to seal against the wall when fully opened or fully closed. You have some adjustment room, but dropping it down an inch will likely create some sealing issues at the top. Carpet is typically used by the slide so there's a flap to cover that gap, and also because the slide needs something to ride on besides the rollers as it comes it. Sheet vinyl is pretty thin and it won't take much for the slide to catch the edge and either scratch it or tear it as it comes in.

Maybe post a pic or 2 of what you're talking about and lets go from there. Seems like every mfr builds their slides a little differently.

[Windowman]

I really won’t have to worry about the seams because ill get it wide enough to go wall to wall and long to go from the front to the back of the living room kitchen area and doing the same on the slide out I know a great flooring guy but my main concern was the 1 inch gap because when the slider goes out the rollers going to that little trough but it’s still 1 inch higher than the main floor and I wasn’t sure if anything could be done so the slide could drop lower to be closer to the main floor since the slide is not the flush floor slide.
In the slide they had a 2 x 4 that is against the wall on the floor that the slide brackets are mounted to and that has warped because he idiots spliced the 2 x 4 right after the brackets so I’m taking the 2 x 4 out so I can support it from underneath by putting some sort of L angle aluminum support under on the outside.

[BurbMan]

Prepare to be disappointed...We're replaced flooring 3x in various RVs and everything you buy will tell you in the instructions that the 25-year warranty is VOID if installed in an RV. Mainly due to temp extremes in cold weather.

Best was the LVP, install as floating with shoe molding around the edges, that seemed to hold up the best with very few seam separations. We used the same material on the slide with molding on the slide front and corner to over up the edge of the slide floor.