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New Ram Mega 3500 DRW 4wd, old 5er....

talonhead
Explorer
Explorer
I just got my new TV, azz end is HIGH. My 5er is a '99 Prowler. Looks like I'll need to flip the axles. How hard will this be on an older unit?
MikeH
2014 Ram 3500 Limited Mega Dually 4WD (True Blue Pearl) w/Alcoa's & paint match bumpers.
12 REPLIES 12

talonhead
Explorer
Explorer
C Schomer wrote:
Put a hauler or a flat bed on. Craig

Naaahhh, just plain not sexy enough!

2014 Ram 3500 Limited Mega Dually 4WD (True Blue Pearl) w/Alcoa's & paint match bumpers.

FLCapt
Explorer
Explorer
I have a 2012 Ram 3500, had the same issue with my 5er. I first set my pin box and my B & W Companion at the positions that gave me the most bed clearance. I also removed those three spacers from under the leaf springs on the truck, and placed them on top of the leaf springs. This allowed me to use the same hardware. Job took me about an hour. You need a couple of jack stands, and at least a floor jack. It would help if you had a second jack also. You will need to jack the truck up, support the frame, and then lower the axle down a little. Spray some penetrating oil on the bolts before you start. You will lower the truck about 1 1/2" in the rear by doing this. It will not affect your payload capacity in any way. If these things don't give you enough clearance, the next step would be to flip the axles, or add spacers if the axles are already under the springs. You want to keep the trailer as low as you can, keeping the center of gravity as low as possible. I once looked at a used 5er that I loved and wanted, but there was no way it would fit my truck without flipping the axles and adding huge spacers. Wouldn't have been safe, so I passed on it. Do some measurements, check out the mounting options on your pinbox and your hitch. Moving the spacers on the truck springs will lower it 1 1/2" on top of whatever you gain on the others. It worked for me, my '09 Mountaineer tows level, and I have 6 1/2" clearance on the bed rails. Good Luck, hope this helps.

alboy
Explorer
Explorer
I removed the blocks on our 06 ram,ended up putting them back in after a few years.If you have a heavy pin ,you will be hitting on the axel stops on rough roads,it basically takes out the rake on the rear and does not handle the load as well.

stro1965
Explorer
Explorer
talonhead wrote:
jasult wrote:
I just picked up a ford 99 f350 drw and it too was too high. It had 4 inch blocks under springs from factory and I simply removed the 4 inch and replaced with 2 inch blocks and now matches height of my 96 f250.

Ford had offered customers a free conversion because too many people complained that rear was too high for fifth wheel applications.
I did not wand my fleetwood trailer any higher than it sits now

I know what you mean about the Fords.
I put on my mud flaps today and looked at the spring packs on the Ram. There don't seem to be any "blocks", just 3 pieces of short spring material under the packs. Maybe just over an inch or so tall. Maybe take those out and see how much it gives me.


Mine is the same. I think I may remove those little "blocks" and add 2" blocks to the camper to get where I need to be.
2018 Ram DRW 3500 6.7
2019 Keystone Alpine 3021

ol_Bombero-JC
Explorer
Explorer
C Schomer wrote:
Put a hauler or a flat bed on. Craig


He may not want a "hauler or a flat bed".

And - in some states (CA) *any* pickup with a flat bed or a utility body must stop at scales.

The OP from CT may never get that far West - but somebody from AZ??

What does that mean for out-of-state reciprocity in re GVWR?
Maybe nothing, maybe ignored - or maybe a weight check like any other commercial vehicle - regardless of (state) plates..:h

~

For the OP:
Explore all other options before flipping axles!
(However Dexter does make an "Over-Under Conversion Kit").

Is there another pin box option - will the 5th clear the bed rails?
IMO - add-on (welded) channel to the frame to re-mount suspension in conventional position is superior to flipping axles.

There was a poster who posted pics of that - which should be in the archives (it was well over a year ago).
Hopefully some creative keywords would locate it in "search".

~

talonhead
Explorer
Explorer
jasult wrote:
I just picked up a ford 99 f350 drw and it too was too high. It had 4 inch blocks under springs from factory and I simply removed the 4 inch and replaced with 2 inch blocks and now matches height of my 96 f250.

Ford had offered customers a free conversion because too many people complained that rear was too high for fifth wheel applications.
I did not wand my fleetwood trailer any higher than it sits now

I know what you mean about the Fords.
I put on my mud flaps today and looked at the spring packs on the Ram. There don't seem to be any "blocks", just 3 pieces of short spring material under the packs. Maybe just over an inch or so tall. Maybe take those out and see how much it gives me.
2014 Ram 3500 Limited Mega Dually 4WD (True Blue Pearl) w/Alcoa's & paint match bumpers.

talonhead
Explorer
Explorer
rjxj wrote:
What hitch do you have?

I have a SuperGlide 16k traditional left over from my Ford. But am going with a picture frame adapter and most likely a new ISR SuperGlide. I don't think in the long run that modifying a picture frame to fit my current hitch would be beneficial if I need to upgrade my hitch in the future.
2014 Ram 3500 Limited Mega Dually 4WD (True Blue Pearl) w/Alcoa's & paint match bumpers.

C_Schomer
Explorer
Explorer
Put a hauler or a flat bed on. Craig
2012 Dodge 3500 DRW CCLB 4wd, custom hauler bed.
2008 Sunnybrook Titan 30 RKFS Morryde and Disc brakes
WILL ROGERS NEVER MET JOE BIDEN!

rhagfo
Explorer III
Explorer III
Safety doesn't require hooking to TV! I placed mine up on four sets of 2X4 cribbing, and the landing gear, the LG held the least amount of weight. Could not move the 5er for love nor money. Helps a lot to have an impact wrench to get things loose!

Russ & Paula the Beagle Belle.
2016 Ram Laramie 3500 Aisin DRW 4X4 Long bed.
2005 Copper Canyon 293 FWSLS, 32' GVWR 12,360#

"Visit and Enjoy Oregon State Parks"

wandering1
Explorer
Explorer
jasult wrote:
I just picked up a ford 99 f350 drw and it too was too high. It had 4 inch blocks under springs from factory and I simply removed the 4 inch and replaced with 2 inch blocks and now matches height of my 96 f250.

Ford had offered customers a free conversion because too many people complained that rear was too high for fifth wheel applications.
I did not wand my fleetwood trailer any higher than it sits now



Right way to fix the problem. Don't screw up the trailer center of gravity by flipping the axles.
HR

jasult
Explorer
Explorer
I just picked up a ford 99 f350 drw and it too was too high. It had 4 inch blocks under springs from factory and I simply removed the 4 inch and replaced with 2 inch blocks and now matches height of my 96 f250.

Ford had offered customers a free conversion because too many people complained that rear was too high for fifth wheel applications.
I did not wand my fleetwood trailer any higher than it sits now

Jim & Georgeanne + Lucie the beagle
"excavator" on the DieselStop.Com
1999 F350 CC LB Hydra chip
1996 F250 Powerstroke, Tony tunes, BTS trans
1995 Fleetwood Wildness 30 ft 5ver

Our Camping Pics and 5ver Album here
Our Gettysburg trip 2010
Williamsburg, Va

azrving
Explorer
Explorer
Depends on how rusty things are. Mine has been indoors so it was easy. Depends on your ability too. Mine is 14 years old so I put springs on too and packed the bearings. While under there I soldered and heat shrink all the brake wiring connections. Easier if you have a die grinder/cut off wheel as some of the u bolts wanted to bind as they came off, even clean and oiled. I installed the Dexter ez flex kit and also used their flip kit. Between the two kits it gave everything needed including bronze bushings for all the spring ends and wet bolts.

The main thing is being safe. I liked having the 5er hooked to my truck. I backed it up on 4 1/2 inches of 2x8 them lowered the landing gear and jacked up and placed jack stands behind the wheels but in front of the rear stabilizers. I worked from side to side and took it up a couple more inches a little at a time. Then you can just pull the boards out. You will get 6 in of lift. You need 1/2 inch drive sockets, breaker bar, hammer, torque wrench. Watch that the shoulder bolts at the spring ends are centered and line up and watch that first step, shes a tall one. ๐Ÿ™‚

What hitch do you have?