What do I need to know about purchasing a hitch?

[geometro]

My lovely wife has finally convinced me to trade our wonderful pickup camper for a 5th wheel so we can take the grandchildren camping. We've camped from Alaska to Jalisco to Nova Scotia and I'll miss it, but it is time to move on.

What do I need to know about purchasing a hitch? We've got the short bed 3/4 ton diesel and we will get as small a trailer as possible, but besides weight ratings are there other things that we should know, or are all normal hitches for sale (B&W, Reese, Curt etc) basically the same?

[pauliwalnutz]

I use the Sidewinder with my short box truck along with 2 other camping buddies. The hitch is under 100lbs and I can remove it in 5 minutes to give me a clean box. This setup is approved by Lippert (which makes the 5th wheel frame) so that my warranty is not voided.
Apparently Lippert won't warranty the frame with an Andersen however Andersen themselves provide a great warranty. I really like the Andersen setup as it is only about 40lbs but I don't think it will work 100% with a short box truck.

[ralphnjoann]

Dtank wrote: "Consequently his one choice is/was *the BEST* !!
Be interesting to know how many posters have had more than one!"

I just replaced my 15k RBW "L'il Rocker" with an Andersen Rail Mount. It fit perfectly with the existing rails and at 41 pounds, it's much less cumbersome. Same trailer, better hitch.

[Artum_Snowbird]

When I had my B&W Patriot installed, the installer said he wished that everybody just bought that hitch. Simple, tough, and excellent.

[Dtank]

JIMNLIN wrote:
You'll find some folks are brand blind so their hitch brand is always the best.

I would suggest what ever brand you choose just make sure it pivots four ways . Makes hooking up and unhooking on unlevel surfaces much easier.

Also do you want a clean bed system with no bed rails laying in the bed.

Generally short bed trucks may need a sliding hitch. Some sliding hitches are manually operated....some are automatic like the Pullrite Superglide and others.
Or instead of a expensive auto sliding hitch look at the Reese Sidewinder or 5th Airborne Sidewinder systems which replaces the conventional pin box but uses a regular 5th wheel hitch.

And some of the newer 5th wheel trailers have a notched/rounded front corner profile that eliminates the need for a sliding hitch on some short bed trucks.

Do your homework and search all the hitch brands websites to see what is actually out here and how it works.

After reading all the replies posted (as of this date & time)...
the above is the most appropriate.

The "brand blind" is very true.

Usually a hitch owner makes an informed decision on which one to buy.
Usually a hitch owner never makes a change - *unless* he goes to a much heavier 5th, etc.

Consequently his one choice is/was *the BEST* !!
Be interesting to know how many posters have had more than one!

There are many options - all will work well.
As stated - do your homework, research them all.

Chances are - with a short bed p/up you - will want to consider a manual or automatic slider.

BTW - hitch weight (such as a PullRite SG) is *not* a problem.
Just more "brand blind" folks!..:S

Many easy options to remove *any* heavy hitch with little effort..:C

.

[Flapper]

One other factor is weight. If you've narrowed down your options for a fifth wheel, then you have to think about carrying capacity of the truck (pin weight of the 5th loaded, passengers, fuel, and "stuff"). Some of the sliders can be very heavy. A Sidewinder combined with a conventional hitch can save a lot of weight.
Many love their B&W hitches, but B&W won't warranty them when used with a sidewinder. I've been pretty happy with my Reese, now called a "Titan" 16K. You can easily separate it into two parts, which makes removal easy for one person.

[C_B_]

geometro:


Please check for the PM I sent you.


C.B.

[bpounds]

There are a lot of fanatics about hitches around here, but the truth is they all work, and they are all safe. There are different features on some. Things you need to consider for your own needs include the following.

4 way tilting. You really want this. I'm not aware of any currently offered that don't do this, but lots of used ones out there that people want to ditch.

Slider mount or non-slider. And if sliding, manual or automatic.

Bed mounted rails, or under bed mounting. Basically comes down to how important a flat bed is to you when the hitch is removed.

Ease of hitch removal. More important if you plan to use the truck a lot for non-towing jobs. Pay attention to the weight, and whether it is easily separated into easier to handle pieces. Tools or no tools for example.

Interchange with a gooseneck ball. Only important if you have other trailers that are gooseneck.

Type of jaw. Choices are sliding bar, clamshell jaws, or wrap-around jaw. Do your own research on advantages to each.

Ease of locking the hitch to your truck, and the hitch to your trailer, if theft or malice is a concern to you.

Cost versus value.

Rated capacity. Make sure it is rated for equal or more than the weight of your trailer.

Ease of installation, particularly if you are a DIY guy.

[cummins2014]

hbillsmith wrote:
Highly recommend the Andersen Ultimate Aluminum

I agree, they are getting great reviews, and they are lightweight ,and easy to install ,and remove.

[randygk]

I just purchased a Reese hitch on line from Etrailer.com. Installing it appears very easy and I have a plethora of tools and equipment. Our new fifth wheel on order has the Reese Revolution pin box, so no need for a slider. A lot of the newer smaller trailers seem to have the Revolution pin box.

[ralphnjoann]

geometro wrote:
Isn't that Anderson for a gooseneck instead of the hitch I've seen on the front of most trailers? I thought converting to a gooseneck put too much torque on the trailer frame and requires more precise tow vehicle alignment than a 5th wheel hitch.

No, see below:

Andersen Hitch

[NMDriver]

I would look for a hitch that is easy to remove or will leave your truck bed free when not using the hitch.

I use the landing legs of my 5er as a hoist to lift the hitch out of the bed. That is an easy, for me, way to remove the hitch but it leaves the rails in place. I do not haul gravel or dirt in the truck so the rails are not a problem for me, but could be for some.

A turn over ball gooseneck hitch would be another good option.

Since you will not be full timing I would try to keep the cost down and look for a used hitch. Any hitch will do the job and if all the parts are there a used hitch will work just as well as a new one.

If in the future you decide you like some other hitch you can always sell the one and buy the other.

[BB_TX]

The reality is that any of the name brand hitches will serve you well.

But with the short bed I would definitely consider a slider hitch. Many use a non slider with no problems. But there are also a number of posts here in the past of denting the cab or knocking out the back window on too tight of a back in turn. Good friend of mine knocked out his back window on such a turn. But after buying a newer 5er with contoured front cap and being more careful he did not do it again, even with keeping the non slider.

[Water-Bug]

ALWAYS buy the hitch to match the TV and NOT the load. That way you can tow anything that the TV is rated for. Matching the hitch to the 5er means that you can't upgrade without buying a new hitch.

EDIT If you have a shortbed, buy the slider. Just because your current 5er has a notched front end, doesn't mean that your next one will. Why limit your choices if you decide to upgrade. Once again, match the hitch to the TV not the load.

[JIMNLIN]

You'll find some folks are brand blind so their hitch brand is always the best.

I would suggest what ever brand you choose just make sure it pivots four ways . Makes hooking up and unhooking on unlevel surfaces much easier.

Also do you want a clean bed system with no bed rails laying in the bed.

Generally short bed trucks may need a sliding hitch. Some sliding hitches are manually operated....some are automatic like the Pullrite Superglide and others.
Or instead of a expensive auto sliding hitch look at the Reese Sidewinder or 5th Airborne Sidewinder systems which replaces the conventional pin box but uses a regular 5th wheel hitch.

And some of the newer 5th wheel trailers have a notched/rounded front corner profile that eliminates the need for a sliding hitch on some short bed trucks.

Do your homework and search all the hitch brands websites to see what is actually out here and how it works.

[geometro]

Isn't that Anderson for a gooseneck instead of the hitch I've seen on the front of most trailers? I thought converting to a gooseneck put too much torque on the trailer frame and requires more precise tow vehicle alignment than a 5th wheel hitch.

Halmfamily, What do you mean by "wind up"?