What's you remaining payload weights as configured?

[Scott_M]

I read through several pages of the Sticky at the top of the forum which was helpful.

We are looking for a new fifth wheel and a new tow vehicle. We are looking at small fifth wheels less than 30 feet. Most we find are less than 12,000 loaded. Looks like the estimated loaded pin weights range from 1650lbs to 2640lbs (assumed 22% of trailer GVWR).

Adding people, pets, fuel and junk to the truck, I’m adding about 570 pounds to the truck cargo, then about 220 pounds for the hitch, rails and adaptor.

All totaled worst case, I am looking at a total payload of 3430lbs. I have called several vehicle dealerships without success and used the “Build Your Own” sites for several vehicle manufacturers, but cannot find the actual available payload remaining after subtracting all of the package weights. Using what I have available, my old F-150 XLT 3.5L has a remaining payload capacity of 1871 pounds. My brother-in law’s new 6.7L diesel 4x4 F-250 has a remaining payload of 2671 pounds. I am trying to stay “legal” in terms of payload weight, trailer weights and combined vehicle weights. Payload seems to be the biggest challenge.

I see the payload, GVWR and GCWR information in the Tow Guides, but can’t figure out how to relate the builds to the Tow Guide and account for add on packages, like XLT package, hitch prep, running boards, camera packages, axle upgrades, etc. There are several options in the Tow Guides that will work for me, but can’t backwards configure. It’s a lot of money to spend on each end if you can’t figure out the correct configuration. Can anyone post or PM me with their builds and remaining payload for their TV?

I’m not tied to any particular truck brand, however not looking for diesel or 4x4 and prefer crew or super cab to regular cab to hold everyone and pets. Also single rear wheel and shortest wheelbase as possible.

[goducks10]

I bought an SRW 3500 CTD. Payload 4552 lbs. No need to worry. I don't see the point in cutting it close on payload when buy a truck. BTDT. It's always better to have too much payload.
If you're going to tow a 5th wheel any size beyond the 1/2 ton rated types then a 1 ton will be the minimum.
Unless you get a gas 3/4 ton then that size 5er will need to be towed with a 1 ton.

[JIMNLIN]

I am trying to stay “legal” in terms of payload weight, trailer weights and combined vehicle weights. Payload seems to be the biggest challenge.

The payload sticker isn't used for any legal weight issues. Weights you need to stay under can be if your state has some type of weight for registration and the vehicle axle/tire load ratings and in particular the trucks rawr as its gonna' carry all the weight in the bed.

I have more than one truck but my favorite is my trusty old '03 2500 Dodge/Cummins 2wd quad cab short bed SLT NV5600 tranny 3.73 gears 9000 gvwr and 6000 rawr.
My rv trailer weighs in at 11200-11400 lb (depending on how its loaded) with a bedroom slide and a super slide.

The trucks unloaded scaled axle weights are 2860 rear and 4180 front. Hooked up scaled weights are 4160 lbs front axle and rear axle scales in at 5260-5480 lbs depending on how the combo is loaded. My sliding hitch and the pin is located zero over the trucks rear axle.

GM has a weights calculatorclicky link on their website ordering guide. However for some reason it stops in 2020 year models. This gave us the std equipment and all options as equipped axle weights and a the trucks gross weight.

[ACZL]

Personally after owning a 250 and now having 2 350's, I'd opt for the 350 as stated above. Currently, Ford has the biggest gas motor and will tow the RV in question w/o a problem. Should you decide to go w/ Ram or GM, get the biggest gas motor each offers. Regardless of which brand you end up with, the gassers will turn higher RPM's overall (especially on hills) but will get the job done.

Had 2 short box trucks which I loved and now have a dually. You can easily get by w/ a SRW as long as your under 15k total RV weight. Been many debates on a slider hitch or not w/ shortness and in the end, it's up to you. Had a slider when we 1st got into RVing back in '05, used it 2x in 10 years. My belief is that if your that tight, pull forward to straighten out VS trying to get a lil more and risk popping out back window. I DO miss the short box, but also like the extra room of the long box. If money was no object, the DRW would be used to haul the RV and a short box would be my everyday cruiser. Can do it w/ the DRW, but the short box makes things easier.

[MFL]

Most all of FW pin wt will be on rear axle. You just need to have separate axle wts of a truck you are interested in. Lets just guess the rear axle weighs 2800 lbs truck empty. Now look at RAWR on door panel. a 3/4T about 6-6.5K and a 1T about 7-7.5. So 6500 available, less the 2800 leaves 3,700 available to add to rear axle.

If you plan to stay with a small, less than 30' FW, most any late model 3/4T will work. If you may decide later to get a larger FW, best to go with a 1T.

On a HD truck, the axle/tire ratings are more important than the payload sticker.

Jerry

[TXiceman]

Rather than be marginal or over on an F250, step on up to an F350. Minimal cost difference and you have the peace of mind of being within truck ratings.

Some 5ers are over the 20% of GVWR for pin weight. We are a bit over 21%

If you plan to add an auxiliary fuel tank, be sure and include that weight in your payload numbers on the truck. Also add the weight of a 5er hitch.

And for what it is worth, get a long bed truck over a short bed. The ride on the longer wheelbase is better and you do not have worry about hitting the cab or slider hitches.

Ken

[way2roll]

I know Ford has a grid of each model and trim and shows payload for each. It's up to the consumer to do the math. The manufacturer has no idea what you will add in terms of people, pets, rv's gear etc.

You will need to know the pin weight of the RV's you are looking at, or as a worst case, take 20% of the RV and what you think it will be loaded for travel. Some of it is a guessing game when you are buying because you won't have actual weights until you actually get the thing. I went with the F350 over the F250 mainly because it had greater capacity and the cost was not really any different. I'd rather have too much truck and expandability in terms of buying a future rv than be really close and have no wiggle room.