Understanding Power

[rodwha]

I've been reading up on power needs and uses, but things aren't quite clear.

For starters I'm looking at the Keystone Passport 2920 BH.

From what I read not all A/Cs run on DC power. How does one figure this out?

To be able to run the A/C during a hot summer I read one would need to have a 3000-4000 watt inverter, but that most trailers have a 1000-2000 watt inverter. I don't see anything on their site or in their brochure that gives specs on this either.

It seems there's some sort of inverter that works off of your propane? Maybe I've just had an overload of info reading from several sites.

I read lithium batteries are the better choice. Again a lack of info. Is this the typical battery on RV's? The Passport seems to be a bit more than a mediocre trailer.

30 amp service seems to be standard unless one has a 2 A/C trailer. I'm guessing there's no issues with upgrading to 50. This would mostly fix issues with running the A/C along with plenty of typical appliances, right?

I'm a bit fuzzy on the load divider. It ensures there's never an issue where the amp draw is too high?

It seems most trailers come with two batteries. This shows two banks of two. No desire to add any?

If 600 watts of solar panel can be set up well enough and the days are partly cloudy how long could this extend a boondock adventure in the summer running the A/C? What of a winter with the lows around 20* F? I'm guessing with neither the A/C or heat working this amount might keep everything else running indefinitely?

Do the trailer batteries do fine when constantly hooked to AC power? I know many batteries don't do well over time like that as batteries are meant to be well used and then charged. I ruined an iPhone keeping it charged.

[Bumpyroad]

rodwha wrote:

Indeed. People kept responding to the first post without keeping up with the direction of the conversation, which seems to still be happening. For some reason some people still think I'm trying to run an A/C from batteries.

hey, it's not OUR fault.
bumpy

[rodwha]

Sam Spade wrote:

rodwha wrote:
This has been covered by my last several posts. Apparently you missed them.

Which is not surprising since you have split the discussion across THREE DIFFERENT THREADS now.

Indeed. People kept responding to the first post without keeping up with the direction of the conversation, which seems to still be happening. For some reason some people still think I'm trying to run an A/C from batteries.

[2gypsies1]

Sam Spade wrote:

rodwha wrote:
This has been covered by my last several posts. Apparently you missed them.

Which is not surprising since you have split the discussion across THREE DIFFERENT THREADS now.

The OP has started 8 posts within the last 5 days.. and that's only on this Full-time section. Many more in other sections and on other forums. Yes, we're all getting confused as to what we've already replied.

[Sam_Spade]

rodwha wrote:
This has been covered by my last several posts. Apparently you missed them.

Which is not surprising since you have split the discussion across THREE DIFFERENT THREADS now.

[rodwha]

I've said several times now that I'm not looking to run the A/C from battery power as it's too costly and heavy. I moved on quite some time ago. This has been covered by my last several posts. Apparently you missed them.

I assume you mistook this by my mistaking an inverter was needed, which I was set straight on.

[EsoxLucius]

Can't listen, learn, then stay in your delusion. You ain't going to do AC as a practical matter from four batteries.

[pianotuna]

Hi Rod,

I have some shares for ownership of a couple of bridges.

Talk to someone that has one before you buy.

rodwha wrote:
I saw what appeared to be a good (3 stage and sine wave) 3000 watt inverter for under $500.

[2oldman]

rodwha wrote:
I saw what appeared to be a good (3 stage and sine wave) 3000 watt inverter for under $500.

Buyer beware... you get what you pay for.

It's not uncommon for ultra-cheap inverters to not come even close to their rated wattage.

[rodwha]

Looking at the one rated for 3000 watts, which would allow for the A/C and one major appliance to run, has that tremendous price tag. I wouldn't be looking to spend that much soon after driving off with a new trailer.

Something I came across last night talked of having the converter, inverter, and transfer switch each seperate as if there is a problem it's much cheaper to replace, not to mention portions still work not leaving you in quite as bad of a position.

I saw what appeared to be a good (3 stage and sine wave) 3000 watt inverter for under $500.

How does one know if the converter that comes with the trailer is of a better quality? From what I read in several different articles/blogs is that it's common to get a poor quality one on older trailers, but that some nicer trailers may come with a better one. From what I gather the Keystone Passports aren't quite top of the line, but are maybe 3/4 up the ladder.

[Sam_Spade]

rodwha wrote:
Looking for one is see these things are extremely expensive:

Which is why you need a generator.

Most people get by very nicely without any inverter at all.

A little extra money, if you have any, would be better spent on a good 3 stage converter/charger to bring your batteries back up a little faster when the generator is running......or you plug into shore power.

[Sam_Spade]

rodwha wrote:
From what I understand is I'd be in good shape with about 400 watts of solar as long as it was mostly sunny.

A "standard" configuration uses battery power for:
Lights
Water Pump
Furnace fan
TV
Misc. phone and portable computers

That's about it.
For that, 400 watts is way overkill......usually.
On a sunny day with "normal" power useage, 150 watts would probably be good. You need a smart controller with the panel.
Most of the power from the panel goes to recharge the batteries from overnight drain.

You still need a generator.

[2oldman]

rodwha wrote:
is this really an average price (I figure shopping around could drop maybe 10%) for something like this?

It's a bit on the high side, but it's also a good product. And that's a heck of a charger too.

[pianotuna]

Hi rodwha,

Running the roof air from batteries can be done. But, for how long?

The roof air may draw between 120 and 190 amps @ 12 volts DC.

With a 240 amp-hour battery bank, you may be lucky to get one hour of run time.

With a 480 amp-hour battery bank, about 2 hours.

If you added 1200 to 1600 watts of solar panels then it becomes possible to run the roof air for a while longer, depending on solar conditions. Cost for DIY is about $3.00 per watt.

[rodwha]

Looking for an inverter charger (sine wave) I looked to see what the A/C and another major appliance might require and figured about 3000 watts would be needed. Looking for one is see these things are extremely expensive:

http://m.campingworld.com/shopping/item/nature-power-sine-wave-inverter-chargers-3000-watt-with-150-amp-battery-charger-and-remote-control-panel/67193

Is this really an average price (I figure shopping around could drop maybe 10%) for something like this?

[rodwha]

I won't worry about these batteries until they need replacing. I've been reading a bit about them and it about seems the old lead batteries are just better for this as long as you care for them.

As much as I'd like to be able to boondock with an A/C with solar there's just no reasonable way to do, both in expense and weight. I have been eyeing the Honda 3000 generator which claims to be around 60 dBA, which is rather quiet. It seems like it could be run without making enemies of your neighbors.