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1987 Establishment P30 starts but dies in idle

Ryan7361
Explorer
Explorer
I have a 1987 Establishment P30. It will start and run, but as soon as I take my foot off the gas it stalls out. It started during a trip when I began to lose power going up a hill. Things got better after the hill, but 2 or 3 hills later we stalled on the side of the road and had to be towed home. It's a chevy 454
I've replaced all the:
-fuel filters
-and put in a new mechanical fuel pump.
-sprayed "gum out" into the carburetor


Any ideas for an Austin area mobile mechanic?
Ryan
43 REPLIES 43

turbojimmy
Explorer
Explorer
tropical36 wrote:
Ryan7361 wrote:
Time for an update! So my electric fuel pump is shot. To test it, I found the fuel pump relay and put 12v on the pump lead(i heard a noise at the tank). I took apart the fuel line at the inline filter(by right front wheel) and nothing was coming out! So either my pump is shot or the in-tank filter is totally blocked, right? I am NOT looking forward to dropping my tank..........

Ryan

Before dropping the fuel tank for any reason and should it ever become necessary, first check and see if a hole can be made through the floor above and then a marine type access plate installed.


This is what I did. Knowing (hoping) that I shouldn't have to do the job again, I put plywood back over the hole and new flooring over top.
1984 Allegro M-31 (Dead Metal)

tropical36
Explorer
Explorer
Ryan7361 wrote:
Time for an update! So my electric fuel pump is shot. To test it, I found the fuel pump relay and put 12v on the pump lead(i heard a noise at the tank). I took apart the fuel line at the inline filter(by right front wheel) and nothing was coming out! So either my pump is shot or the in-tank filter is totally blocked, right? I am NOT looking forward to dropping my tank..........

Ryan

Before dropping the fuel tank for any reason and should it ever become necessary, first check and see if a hole can be made through the floor above and then a marine type access plate installed.
"We are often so caught up in our destination that we forget to appreciate the journey."

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Dinghy_2010 Jeep Wrangler JKU ISLANDER.

1998 36ft. National Tropi-Cal Chevy Model 6350 (Sold)

Jim
Explorer
Explorer
Not sure, Jerseyjim. I am under the impression that the genset, being generally so close to the fuel tank, has it's own hose dipped into the fuel. And uses it's own fuel pump. Since most gensets have a built in fuel pump, you'd think the RV manufacturer would take advantage of that.

I'm pretty sure this is true because of all the posts I've read where experts have had posters disconnect the fuel feed hose and dip it into a gallon can of gas as a test of the gensets fuel pump.

It seems that a typical issue with gas and diesel powered gensets is the rubber hose going into the fuel tank gets crushed or squeezed closed quite often.
Jim@HiTek
Have shop, will travel!
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Winnebago Journey, '02
Cat 330HP Diesel, 36.5', two slides.

jerseyjim
Explorer
Explorer
JIM@HITEK: Interesting about the NAPA pump. Question: how does this (if it does)affect the gas delivery to a generator?

Jim
Explorer
Explorer
Also, you don't have to replace a bad in-tank fuel pump. Just buy a universal external fuel pump from NAPA. The pump and some brass fittings, plus some fuel hose comes in under $100.
Jim@HiTek
Have shop, will travel!
Visit my travel & RV repair blog site. Subscribe for emailed updates.
Winnebago Journey, '02
Cat 330HP Diesel, 36.5', two slides.

Ryan7361
Explorer
Explorer
I've noticed my single air door on my carb stays wide open all the time-right down to idle. That can't be right can it?

Ryan7361
Explorer
Explorer
PaulJ2 wrote:
My guess also is dirt in the idle circuit. One more thing I didn't see Wes cover. Make sure the idle-stop solenoid is working on the carb. The throttle linkage rests against this while idleing with the key on. Retracts with key off further closing the throttle to prevent dieseling.


I found the idle stop solenoid and it's not even wired! It's as if the previous owner by-passed it. I guess I'll have to dig for a wiring diagram............

Wes_Tausend
Explorer
Explorer
PaulJ2 wrote:
My guess also is dirt in the idle circuit. One more thing I didn't see Wes cover. Make sure the idle-stop solenoid is working on the carb. The throttle linkage rests against this while idleing with the key on. Retracts with key off further closing the throttle to prevent dieseling.


This solenoid is often a culprit, thanks to PaulJ2 for mentioning it, cuz I plum forgot. Like he said, the solenoid holds the carb slightly open for correct idle speed as set by the idle speed adjustment screw. Since these smog motors idle so lean, they tend to diesel on after shut-down, so this "stop" solenoid is designed to rob all air from the intake by closing the butterflies off entirely when the engine ignition is shut down. If you observe and have someone cycle the ignition key on and off, the solenoid should click and visibly lift the throttle ever so slightly with ignition on. Or it's broke.

Since vacuum leaks are very common on engines with old, cracked hose lines, that is definitely a possibility. It would pay to eliminate the possibily by global replacement, or at least very careful inspection. Messy, but sometimes squirting oil on suspected gasket joint or hose leaks will momentarily plug the leak with thick oil, allowing it's detection.

The idle mix screws may be a bit hidden by having a plastic lock cap over them to prevent tampering, but these can sometimes be saved with care, or just break them open if the truck is not subject to smog checks.

One danger in removing idle mix screws to back-blow (squirt WD-40 etc) through them, is that the engine may idle better with them being falsely adjusted to make up for a slight vacuum leak, one of the reasons I recommend very carefully resetting them back to the exact original position. The right way to do it is to end up at the same factory setting when all leaks are fixed. Although many people abhor smog era motors and try to beat the factory settings, the OEM setting with all EPA equipment intact usually works the best overall.

Keep your chin up, your RV 454 will perform quite satisfactorily when all is again well. They are great motors and the Rochester Quadrajet was my favorite. They all flow at least 750 cubic feet when wide open, yet run quite economical on the two small front venturi throats when maximum power is not demanded. Good luck.

Wes
...
Days spent camping are not subtracted from one's total.
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WILDEBILL308
Explorer II
Explorer II
No the canister just collects the excess fuel vapor (emissions)Leaking vacume hoses are a more likely problem. Make shore the gasket under the carb isn't leaking.
Bill
2008 Newmar Mountain Aire
450 HP CUMMINS ISM
ALLISON 4000 MH TRANSMISSION
TOWING 2014 HONDA CRV With Blue Ox tow bar
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Ryan7361
Explorer
Explorer
It's going to take a while for me to work through all the vacuum lines(I managed to find a diagram)-I'm noticing that several lines run to the fuel canister(vapor canister?). Could there be troubles in the canister?

shaneperch
Explorer
Explorer
I have the same problem with my 440 Avco and I found right by one of the fule filters i finally found. the fuel line was cracked and had a hole in it fixed it and i get fuel and it stays running. try that.

Born_To_Travel
Explorer
Explorer
Vacuum is created by the engine itself... No pump...

Ryan7361
Explorer
Explorer
Born To Travel wrote:
Sounds like a vacuum leak.. Check all vacuum lines on engine.. If they are original replace them anyway....


Is the vacuum created by a pump? Could the pump be failing?

cj7365
Explorer
Explorer
Just bing or goodle quadrajet idle adjustment screws or videos

here is one

idle adj screws

Ryan7361
Explorer
Explorer
Where would I find a diagram for my 1987 chevy 454 carburetor? I need to find these "idle air adjustment screws".