2000 E450 fuel pump location

[LT_E5]

The other day I went to do the monthly start of the motorhome and it just turned over. I didn't have the time to crawl under and take a look yet and I'm gathering information on problems. I will check the relay and fuse for the fuel pump but if they are both good I'll have to check the fuel pump. Any idea where the pump is? I'm hoping on the frame rail but I feel it might be inside the tank. Thanks in advance.

[jspar]

If this thread is still active, has any one heard of the fuel pump drawing to many amps?

[BruceMc]

Dusty, that's the plan. And I hope my research/experiences will help you, LT E5 on yours as well.

--Bruce.

[Dusty_R]

The generator has a fuel pump of it's own. So hook the portable one before the generator.

Dusty

[BruceMc]

I completed the first test - have an assistant listen at the fuel filler neck. The pump clicks and makes a bit of noise, but not the noise it should make. It sounds like it's trying to run but can't. Next step - remove 50 gallons of fuel.

I have a plan - my son has a portable fuel pump which I'll connect to the generator fuel line, and will be able to remove all but a quarter tank. That fuel will go into various other vehicles here and there.

Fun!

[Gene_in_NE]

There ought to be a way to make sure it isn't just a power connection before dropping the tank. One of the wires to it should be carrying several amps of current when the ignition is on - a DC camp meter would be handy...

I have used a digital camera with flash to take a look where I cannot easily see because of obstacles.:)

[BruceMc]

Oh, and one more check for you - behind the passenger kick panel under the dash, you'll find an "inertia" switch. Reach over the top of the panel and feel for the top of the switch. It has a button on top, push it down. If it goes down and stays, try to start your rig. If you can't find the switch, remove the kick panel by pulling out at the top to unclip it, then keep pulling to unclip the second clip. You'll need to work it around to get it out of the hole... then you can see the switch and the rest of the wiring.

This is the switch the book recommends when relieving the fuel pressure to work on the fuel system such as changing the filter.

--Bruce.

[BruceMc]

Per my Haynes book, to test the fuel pump:
1) Remove the fuel cap, then have an assistant turn the ignition key to On while you listen at the fuel filler opening. You should hear a whirring sound for a couple seconds.
2) If you don't hear anything, check the fuel pump fuse. (I had to search the net to find a diagram of my fuse/relay block - it's not printed on the cover, nor is it shown in my book) If the fuse if blown, replace it, and see if it blows again. If so, search for a short.
3) Check the battery voltage to the fuel pump relay connector and the PCM relay connector. If there is sufficient voltage, test the relays.

I have 5 large relays, and they are all the same number so they can be swapped for testing. I'm still not sure which one is the fuel pump relay, nor the PCM relay, however.

4) If there is no voltage present, check the fuses and the wiring circuit for the fuel pump relay and/or PCM power releay. If voltage is present, check for battery voltage at the fuel pump harness connecter located near the fuel tank. If voltage is reaching the fuel pump, remove the fuel pump and have it checked. (or replace it at that point!)

5) Pressure Check - relieve the fuel system pressure
6) Detach negative battery cable
7) Attach fuel pressure gauge to test port
😎 Reattach negative battery cable
9) Start engine (yea, right)
10) Check pressure at idle.

The spec in my book indicates the fuel pump pressure should be 65 lbs.

In my opinion, if you get sufficient pressure when you turn the key to On, then the fuel system is not your problem.

I'll let you know what I find when I work on mine in the next few days.

(minor edits...)

[LT_E5]

Again, thanks for all of the replies. I haven't had a chance to slide under there yet. There still is 8 inches of snow around the camper. I want to check and see where the pump enters the tank. If it is under a cabinet or dinette seat I have no problem cutting the floor out and accessing from the top. A mechanic friend thinks there might be a second pump on the frame rail because of the distance the tank is from the engine. I will also check for that.

[Harvey51]

There ought to be a way to make sure isn't just a power connection before dropping the tank. One of the wires to it should be carrying several amps of current when the ignition is on - a DC camp meter would be handy.

I replaced one on a car. It cried for help. The replacement itself was easy. Hard part was getting the gas out and undoing the straps holding the tank. If you can get it going one more time, it might work to put a T on the fuel line and get it to pump the fuel into a barrel.

[BruceMc]

@rehoppe - yep, always fill it at 1/2, more or less. There was only one leg where we ran it down below a 1/4, but that was several years ago.

@carringb - thanks for the tips. We have a Wilco here in town, but the station is now a Texaco. Astro is in Tigard, and PAC? New one on me.

@LT E5, Thanks for restarting this thread...Fuel pumps have been in tanks for at least 3 decades now. I've replaced several - one in my '88 Pontiac, one in friend's Taurus with his help, and 2 in the same friend's Jimmy. In all three, they made odd noises so we replaced them before they died. This is the first one I've had that worked last time, and doesn't this time with no warning!

--Bruce.

[rehoppe]

If you have an 'in tank' fuel pump..... Always, Always, Always refill the tank at 1/2. It Really doesn't cost any extra AND it's better for the fuel pump.

And if you run it below 1/4,, the Genny won't run. Just FYI.

[carringb]

Fuel pumps are susceptible to seizing from sitting when fuel contains ethanol because ethanol causes the nylon impellers to swell. Also ethanol absorbs water so you have the corrosion factor as well. But that's why motorhomes are disproportionately affected by fuel pump failures.

Bruce - not sure if you are aware that fuel stations in Oregon can now sell non-ethanol premium. I always recommend it for customers whose cars sit a whe or don't get many miles. All of the astro, wilco, and PAC pride stations carry it as do some 76 stations.

[BruceMc]

I wonder (tongue in cheek) if ford fuel pumps are programmed to die around new years... mine apparently did the same thing. I'll run the checks to make sure but in the end I'll need to remove 50 gallons of fuel before I can drop the tank. This is not gonna be a fun job...

Banging on the tank did nothing.

BTW, does someone have a picture/page from the manual for the fuse and relay positions for the '99 chassis? perhaps '96 through '03 will do as well. Unlike GM, ford doesn't put a map on the fuse/relay cover of the sizes/purposes.

But the good news is the Onan genny started up after a couple tries, and ran like a champ with a load!

[Teacher_s_Pet]

About the same with Chevy 3500 Express Van Chassis on our 2004 R-Vision 213. Lost the pump at about 11,000 miles. $800 to drop the tank and replace the pump.