50 amp cheater

[kokois1]

I am considering purchasing a 50 amp cheater system to use when there is only a30 amp and 20 amp connection available at the site hookup. Have any of you used one? Any problems or issues I need to be aware of? Thanks.

[FC]

The use of the cheaters is against the electrical code here in Canada.
FYI.

[diveman52]

wa8yxm wrote:
Save your money.. I have one, There are two places I can use it out of all the places I park and in one of those only on selected sites.

Instead.. What you need to do is install a "Break out" system. I will describe it.

Now mine is an "Advanced" model (I designed it) but here is the basic model

Original wiring in my motor home

Main breaker box branch breaker will be called "BB" for this discussion

BB-------------air conditioner (rear)

New system

BB-----Outlet/Plug-----Junction box----Air conditieonr rear

What I did: Pulled the 12ga line out of the breaker box that fed the rear A/C
Took a 12 ga extension cord that was double the length needed to reach outside the RV, cut it in half, outlet end hooked to the breaker, and plug end hooked, via the Junction box, to the A/C.
So your using the cord as part of the permanent wiring system Now?
Extension cords are listed for temporary use only not suited to permanent use. NEC violation!!!

I later added a special 20 amp outlet What's so special about this outlet? (Different plug from regular outlets) T-ed in at that same junction box. all connections in the J-box are soldered and taped (Wire nutted and taped did not work).
Believe it or not Solider is not a listed means of connection at least for the last 50 years. I've never had a problem with wire nuts and there are listed insulated crimp connectors also.

I plug a space heater into the outlet, Do not use heat and A/C at the same time.

Now.. I'm on a 50 amp site, plug is in outlet, everything works as normal

Next week on a 30 amp site, I pull plug and using a 12ga Extension cord plug into park's 20 amp.. now rear A/C is independent of rest of motor home, Does NOT trip GFCI as your cheater box will.

The original design was a bit more paranoid than I am.. Here it is

BB-----Outlet/plug-Breaker------AC

Actually the "Plug" on the original design (WWW PSRV COM NET or ORG (forget which suffex and now closed) the plug was an "inlet" (Mounted like an outlet but prongs instead of slots) The outlet on both their and my design is a pigtail.

IF YOU HAVE AN ENERGERY NAMAGEMENT SYSTEM. you will need to find a spot to "Break out" teh Rear AC that is After the EMS.. (LIkely the EMS relay deck).

Your method scares the hell out of me!!!!

[wa8yxm]

Save your money.. I have one, There are two places I can use it out of all the places I park and in one of those only on selected sites.

Instead.. What you need to do is install a "Break out" system. I will describe it.

Now mine is an "Advanced" model (I designed it) but here is the basic model

Original wiring in my motor home

Main breaker box branch breaker will be called "BB" for this discussion

BB-------------air conditioner (rear)

New system

BB-----Outlet/Plug-----Junction box----Air conditieonr rear

What I did: Pulled the 12ga line out of the breaker box that fed the rear A/C
Took a 12 ga extension cord that was double the length needed to reach outside the RV, cut it in half, outlet end hooked to the breaker, and plug end hooked, via the Junction box, to the A/C.

I later added a special 20 amp outlet (Diferent plug from regular outlets) T-ed in at that same junction box. all connections in the J-box are soldered and taped (Wire nutted and taped did not work).

I plug a space heater into the outlet, Do not use heat and A/C at the same time.

Now.. I'm on a 50 amp site, plug is in outlet, everything works as normal

Next week on a 30 amp site, I pull plug and using a 12ga Extension cord plug into park's 20 amp.. now rear A/C is independent of rest of motor home, Does NOT trip GFCI as your cheater box will.

The original design was a bit more paranoid than I am.. Here it is

BB-----Outlet/plug-Breaker------AC

Actually the "Plug" on the original design (WWW PSRV COM NET or ORG (forget which suffex and now closed) the plug was an "inlet" (Mounted like an outlet but prongs instead of slots) The outlet on both their and my design is a pigtail.

IF YOU HAVE AN ENERGERY NAMAGEMENT SYSTEM. you will need to find a spot to "Break out" teh Rear AC that is After the EMS.. (LIkely the EMS relay deck).

[JamesBr]

With building codes standardizing on GFCI outlets required, it does not work. though I have had the luck of the site power box having two 30A and been able to use it.

[naturist]

Building code most places specify all outdoor recepticals be GFI for safety sake. Doesn't mean they actually are, of course.

[rgatijnet1]

Most of these will not work if the 20 amp circuit has a GFI breaker.