Atwood water heater bypass problem

[abaerga]

Hello all, I'm trying to winterize and can't seem to keep the pink stuff out of the water heater. I've bypassed the supply side buy there doesn't seem to be a valve on the hot return side. Is there supposed to be an inline one way valve there? My suspicion is the fluid is going in the top hot water out. I thought there was a check valve there but don't see one. Any help is appreciated. Not sure how to add a photo.

[Dutch_12078]

SeaTech/Watts fittings are a good choice. I'm glad it worked out for you.

[abaerga]

So I installed a Sea tech stop valve at the hot water out. The system did pressurize fine and no pink stuff in the WH. All is well. Thanks for the comments.

[Chuck_Sances]

Sometimes the check valve is in different places on the W/H. Mine was near the by-pass valve and I have heard of some right on the rear of the W/H. Replaced mine last spring and now will have to see if working when I winterize. Chuck

[Dutch_12078]

Just be careful if you use that Flair-It valve. The valve is directional, and the arrow must point towards the heater tank to stop the bypass flow into the tank. Installed backwards, the valve will allow liquid to pass.

[abaerga]

Thanks O-B, that's what I was considering. Be easier to install another valve than pull the heater.

[Old-Biscuit]

This was a 1 valve system on a WH......cold inlet/bypass valve with check valve in hot outlet (check valve is part of nipple that is screwed into tank at top fitting).

Check valve leaked so a shutoff valve was installed in hot outline line.



Flair-IT 1/2" valve..available at most any hardware store...even think Walmart has them

[Thunder_Mountai]

Dakota98 wrote:
Sounds as though you have a single valve bypass setup. If that's the case then the check valve in the top of the tank, outlet is not functioning correctly and needs to be replaced.

If there is not a check valve in the outlet of the tank, you'll have to install one or use air to winterize, or you'll have to fill the tank with pink stuff. Just be sure the inlet valve is open to the tank if you decide to use air.

I agree. I have a single gate valve for the heater bypass and a check valve. Last spring when I returned from AZ, I couldn't get pressure built up in the fresh water system to winterize the washer. Then I noticed pink stuff dribbling out of the water heater drain. Turned out that the check valve was leaking back into the water heater.

The part was less than $25 retail. It took about 45 minutes to pull the heater, thirty minutes to replace the check valve and 45 minutes to reinstall.

A temporary fix would be to disconnect the cold water line from the heater and cap it until you can fix it.

[Dakota98]

Sounds as though you have a single valve bypass setup. If that's the case then the check valve in the top of the tank, outlet is not functioning correctly and needs to be replaced.

If there is not a check valve in the outlet of the tank, you'll have to install one or use air to winterize, or you'll have to fill the tank with pink stuff. Just be sure the inlet valve is open to the tank if you decide to use air.