Auto Park Brake Issue or Not?
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โJun-07-2015 04:54 PM
Well, I drove it to the storage unit, and when I got to the storage unit (and even before then really), I could hear some brake squeel coming from the rear and maybe an ever-so-slight drag. When I hopped out, there was a small amount of smoke coming from the rear tire rims, so I assumed the brakes must be dragging some from not being used, again, nothing a little maintenance shouldn't take care of.
However, when I got home I started googling and reading horror stories about how these auto park brakes get chewed up and cost $4k to fix, I'm really freaked out now. From what I understand though, the smoke couldn't have been caused by the auto park brake b/c that's closer to the front of the rig correct? It seems there is some fluid or something that is sticking to the rear wheels, is this indicative of something other than just bad brakes? (PIC)
I was going to drive it to my mechanics but now am unsure if I should try to drive it for fear of causing major damage b/c of the APB, am I overthinking this if the light is off when I am in drive and the rig seems to roll fine? Should I have it towed instead and if I do, do I need to tell the tow operator to drop the driveshaft to prevent damage b/c of the APB?
Thanks for indulging in my paranoia ๐
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โJun-10-2015 03:08 PM
Ex: 2003 Alpine 38'FDDS
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Diesel RV Club:http://www.dieselrvclub.org/
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โJun-10-2015 01:21 PM
So, mostly I'm trying to educate myself enough that I don't get screwed over by a mechanic. I actually called my trusted auto mechanic but he can't work on RV's due to his insurance regulations and a couple other places I called said they couldn't do it b/c it wouldn't fit in their bays or also insurance.
Anyway, I ended up taking it to a place in Denton TX that seems to have a good reputation, Danny's RV repair, but the wait is like 2 weeks b4 they can even get to it. If anyone in the DFW area has a pad big enough I can park it on and work on it myself, I'd ofc love to learn to take care of this myself. It seems I actually have a p32 chasis and I'm 99% sure I have the version II autopark.
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โJun-09-2015 10:32 AM
Paleo wrote:
Just purchased a 96' Winnebago Adventurer 32 on the Chevy chassis. During the test drive, when I tried to put the RV in reverse, the auto park brake would engage and you would have to wiggle the shifter to make it disengage. When u stop, and shift into reverse or any other gear, u can hear the pump whine, then the light goes off, so I figured it needs some maintenance, not a big deal.
Well, I drove it to the storage unit, and when I got to the storage unit (and even before then really), I could hear some brake squeel coming from the rear and maybe an ever-so-slight drag. When I hopped out, there was a small amount of smoke coming from the rear tire rims, so I assumed the brakes must be dragging some from not being used, again, nothing a little maintenance shouldn't take care of.
However, when I got home I started googling and reading horror stories about how these auto park brakes get chewed up and cost $4k to fix, I'm really freaked out now. From what I understand though, the smoke couldn't have been caused by the auto park brake b/c that's closer to the front of the rig correct? It seems there is some fluid or something that is sticking to the rear wheels, is this indicative of something other than just bad brakes? (PIC)
I was going to drive it to my mechanics but now am unsure if I should try to drive it for fear of causing major damage b/c of the APB, am I overthinking this if the light is off when I am in drive and the rig seems to roll fine? Should I have it towed instead and if I do, do I need to tell the tow operator to drop the driveshaft to prevent damage b/c of the APB?
Thanks for indulging in my paranoia ๐
A lot of stabbing in the dark here, so what you first need, is a lot of education, concerning the autopark systems and hopefully Roger, the AP guru, will be getting back to you shortly with a day's reading of material and advice. Most likely your problem with reverse is with having the cam type actuator, which you can see, but not reach, by lying on your back down under the steering column. Most have tied a rag on a stick and coated it with grease for lubing such. In addition, many install a momentary bypass switch on the steering column inside, for assistance in these situations. Do a search here for tons of threads on that and other AP issues.
Firstly, you should be finding out if you have the self contained version III or not and even though you have the earlier manual foot pedal.
Lastly, be wary of any mechanic that doesn't have prior AP experience and another reason for educating yourself, whether you do your own work or not.
The horror stories that you've heard about with the AP system, come mostly from said lack of education, not having spare parts on board and with would be professionals working on them, who shouldn't be and for whether or not, they're clueless or realize that you are and then decide on taking you for a monetary ride.
Your rear wheel problem with whatever that is and might be leaking there, has nothing whatsoever to do with the AP system, which is a drum brake on the drive shaft, behind the transmission.
07 Revolution LE 40E_Spartan MM_06 400HP C9 CAT_Allison 3000.
Dinghy_2010 Jeep Wrangler JKU ISLANDER.
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โJun-09-2015 10:12 AM
2000 Itasca Suncruiser 35U
2014 Chev Equinox LT AWD
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โJun-09-2015 09:11 AM
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โJun-08-2015 03:34 PM
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โJun-08-2015 12:10 PM
Would recommend you buy "The Little Green Switch" now and have it as a spare in case you ever need it.
2000 Itasca Suncruiser 35U
2014 Chev Equinox LT AWD
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โJun-08-2015 11:52 AM
01 31'Sea View single slide, F53 V-10 with 134,000 miles and counting.
2012 Jeep Liberty Smi brake system
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God Bless
KF6HCH
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โJun-08-2015 10:25 AM
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โJun-08-2015 09:53 AM
donhoward49 wrote:
If its the Auto Park, email this guy for expert advise on repairs
oldusedbear11@charter.net
great, I've sent him an email as well, thanks!
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โJun-08-2015 06:13 AM
oldusedbear11@charter.net
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โJun-07-2015 07:23 PM
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โJun-07-2015 06:38 PM
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โJun-07-2015 06:32 PM
Also, I forgot to mention, when I apply the foot emergency brake pedal, there is almost no resistance, is that normal or does that indicate an APB problem?
And as far as the adjustment for the microswitch, would installing a new one fix the issue or is it only adjustment that can fix it?
Also, as far as the APB, even if that's not the problem now, they seem to be notorious for leaving people stranded. I read they can be rebuilt for ~ $400 (plus I imagine a couple hundred bucks in labor to have mechanic remove and reinstall), is this an investment I should make b4 I even think about taking this 20 year old RV out? (it has 56k miles btw).
Oh, and one last noob question, as far as removing the covers, just pop them off with a tire tool? I dont want to wreck them, lol.