B+ motorhomes

[Daniel_C_]

I just bought a Trail Lite B+ 211s with 8.1 Chevy
engine. This is my fifth motorhome (others range
from an old 20' Vagabond, and three Winnegagos, from 19 to 32'. This vehicle is fantastic. I am
using it as a mobile office (and sneaking in a fun
journey from time to time). It gets about 9.5mpg
and I believe I could pull a bus behind it if I wanted! I paid low $40's which is about what I had expected to pay for a five or six year old Chinook with a nicer interior, but fewer features
(slide). I am delighted thus far.

[CharlesOK]

karebear to use the small tire inflater, you will need a screwin fitting available at any camping store. usually made of nylon, it has a standard hose screw-in fitting on one side and a bicycle threaded valve on the otherside. It is also made by CAMCO and is really a screw-in one way valve. when all faucets and drains are closed and the pump starts adding air to the system, you can then open the faucets one at a time untill only air comes out. I also open the drain valves one at a time untill all I get is air from anywhere. I usually go back around to each faucet or drain several times, but then I am retired and goofing around with my motorhome is really a hobby for me.

[karebear]

You guys are SUPER, helpful beyond my expectations, I thank each and every one of you. Yes, I bought the Camco/RV kit with the brass T, clear hose, tape and conbector, and will now present dh with your answers...the piano hinge is a GREAT idea as getting into that space was nearly his undoing, as Charles OK would know!!! Never thought to use the small tire inflator, tried the leaf blower that Gene did and got some water out, will try your other suggestions. Karebear.

[CharlesOK]

Burl, congratulations on your second hip. Just keep plugging along and you will make it, I am sure.

Now on the Water Heater, are you sure you don't have a WH bypass. Your unit is a 05 and I was under the impression, (May be wrong) that bypass was standard. Anyway, if you want to fill with antifreeze, which is certainly an acceptable option, it is still necessary to pull the plug on the back of the Water Heater and drain the 6 gallons of water first, before you try to refill with antifreeze. Draining the lines and the fresh water tank should be done as well, to ensure you don't dilute the antifreeze with trapped water.

Just for the record, for those who may not have looked, what I call a WH bypass is a set of three valves directly on the back of the Water Heater. The middle valve handle should be in-line with the line and the other two turned across/against the line of flow of the water, to be in bypass mode. Easier to understand when seen, as opposed to reading about. When the handles on each valve are in line with the water line, water can flow through the line. The bypass allows you to cut off the flow to and from the water tank. I hope this helps anyone who is trying to winterize for the first time. All my earliest units did not have a bypass kit installed and Trail-lites come with it standard now. Just another example of the "little things" that come standard on our units.

PS: During the Summer the middle valve should be closed so water HAS to flow into the water heater tank around the heater tube and back out to the faucets. Hope that was clear.

[burlmart]

Hello all

Second (and final by my count) hip successfully installed 5 days back. I just successfully began walking w/ just a cane, though I will need my walker for longer movements (several minutes or so) for another week or so. In 4 weeks I hope to walk w/o pain and w/ a real gait for the first time in my 51 tears. Yotal time for both installations and expected near full recovery - 12 weeks.

I do not have a water heater bypass and would find it difficult to install in the tight below-cabinet-space and to get at the FW tank under the dinette.

If FW tank flushing is a good idea for springtime anyway, why not just invest in 4 to 6 gallons of antifreeze ($3.60/gal at campingworld - must be less at walmart) and pour pink stuff and a gallon or 2 extra added water into FW filler to fill water heater's 6 gallons plus a bit more for the pipes and bottom of FW tank? Annual cost is not that bad, $25 bucks.

No getting under cabinets, just pour in and drain out and flush w/ bleach and pure water again.

Am I missing something, cause I would consider $25 a year cheap and keep things simple in the process. When I work on water things, I create leaks.

[Gene_in_NE]

Sent the following in a PM -

Since your unit is a different model than mine, don't quite know how close they compare. My cover over the fresh water tank is under the dinette closest to the passenger. My plywood is not screwed down, merely lays in place and has a finger hole to pick it up with. Between the frosty looking rectangular tank and the wall is mounted the pump and the inlet/outlet white tubing. There is also a tank drain that penetrates the floor that you must unscrew the shutoff valve to drain the tank. I used a leaf blower and blew air into the tank to accelerate the draining and get the last bit of water out. I believe the kit they talk about, you cut the tubing from the tank to the pump and install a "T" fitting with a directional valve. I merely loosened the clamp on the tubing that connects to the fitting on the tank, then unscrewed the fitting from the tank. This is the suction of the pump - stuck that into the pink jug and turned on the pump. Then I turned on each faucet until solid pink flowed (including the flush toilet). Then I reconnected - not much of a problem once a year. Hope someone else writes to give you another procedure.

[CharlesOK]

First things first. While you have the bedboard off, cut the last foot or so off, install a piano hinge and then install a brace below the unsupported edge. Then when you put the whole thing back, you will have a flip-up door for access to the pump. I agree, the original set-up is not, shall we say optimal for maintenance. If you have your owners manual, R-Vision say you only need to gravity drain and air out the system. I blow out the lines with a small plastic fitting screwed into the city water outlet. After draining, close the drains and faucets and then while pressurised with air, open one faucet or drain at a time till no more water comes out. Don't forget the water valve on the toilet and don't use high pressure. I use a small Black and Decker 110 Volt airpump, which is not capable of pumping much air, so I just hook it up and leave it on while I open the faucets and valves one at a time. I never have more than about 30 to 40 psi in the system, but it is enough to get the water out. I did that last year and added Pink Stuff to all my drains and to the holding tanks after draining the system. Don't forget to bypass the water heater and drain it as well, you will need to pull the drain plug from the outside for the water heater, it looks like it is a white plastic plug screwed into the lower side of the WH under the outside WH door area. While draining the lines, it is also good to open each faucet and allow air into the system through them which lets the water out through the low points. In my 251, there is a Main water tank drain in the passenger side rear compartment up against the rear wall. There are two more lowpoint drains inside the cupboards behind the large pots and pans drawer. Mine have pull rings on them and are easy to pull with a finger, just remember to close them before you use the system next. Of cours, we have fairly mild winters here and I am not afraid of a few drops of water which may be left in the lines. The antifreeze is good for the drains so the drain plumbing is not damaged, and I keep the rest of the gallon over the winter in the coach, so I can add some to the toilet if I need to flush it while I am there. Old men pee a lot, and it is handy to be able to use the Loo when I run the generator each month.

[gkreutzer]

My RV Pump Converter Winterizing Kit (Camco/RV) is installed between the fresh water tank and the pump. I disconnected the incoming fresh water suction line from the pump, then installed a brass valve with 1/2" male thread to suction opening on the pump. Finally reconnected water line to the brass valve with female adapter provided in kit. There is a cap on the brass valve which is removed and a clear hose with fitting is attached to the valve and the other end goes into a gallon of RV winterizing antifreeze. I just turn the brass valve handle 1/4 turn turn on the water pump, switch on the pump and turn on each faucet one at a time to allow antifreeze to run through. I let about a cup drop into drain to protect traps. When all faucets (and toilet) are done, just remove clear hose and replace cap on valve. My fresh water tank is under front bench seat of dinette along with the pump. My hot water heater already has a by-pass installed so I just drain the fresh water tank and water heater and then set valves for by-pass before I start all this. In the spring, I sanitize fresh water tank and flush system with fresh water. Then reset by-pass valves to water heater and it's good to go. It's really a painless way to winterize water lines without getting nasty tasting antifreeze into any water tanks.

Here's a good how to link for winterizing: Winterizing

Good luck,
—Gary

[cheeze1]

Which winterizing kit? Mine is a bypass that is installed in the line near the hot water heater.

[karebear]

Winterizing....OK, bought the winterizing kit, dh has taken mattress off bed and taken screws out of plywood to get to fresh tank and pump....says the kit won't fit, as no fitting on pump...is this how you all have to get to your pump to get the pink stuff into the system??? Anybody want to personal message me a step by step how to do this, would sure like any help.

[cheeze1]

I have the same as Reno mentions. Works great and eliminates the fresh tank. It includes a bypass for the hwh so that can be emptied as well.

[Reno3]

Gene you can buy a winterizing kit for maybe 20 bucks that is nothing more than a T with a switch (deverter) Then you don't have to disconnect anything just turn the switch and put the side hose into the bottle of antifreeze and pump out of the bottle into your lines. When everything runs pink then just remember to turn the switch back the other way.

)

[CharlesOK]

Hey Gene, that's cool, never thought of using a leaf blower for tank drainage. What ever works I guess. Novel Idea.

[Gene_in_NE]

Echoing what gkreutzer said - Thanks Daniel.

Just winterized my unit and took someone's advice on this thread. I had been pouring about 2-3 gallons of antifreeze in the fresh tank and then pumping through the plumbing. This time took a screwdriver and loosened the clamp on the hose right at the tank and then a 7/8" wrench and unscrewed the male threaded adapter from the tank. Stuck the end into a antifreeze jug and after pumping less than 2/3 of one gallon had bright pink flowing from all the outlets. Saved antifreeze and was quick and not diluted. Also used a leaf blower on the fill connection to accelerate and get complete drainage on the fresh tank.

[gkreutzer]

Thanks Daniel,
It's really good to get the "long view" of ownership. Your original thread has grown to take on quite a life of its own. I am so grateful for all I have learned from this thread. Keep up the commentary, we all appreciate your words.
—Gary

[Daniel_C_]

Just a short update... Had a pretty significant maintenance month. in the past 30 days, I have had to replace the engine starter, replace the back door lockset (the "striker(?)" broke so that pulling the handle yielded nothing - I had to cut the metal away on the device with a dremel and work out the material with a screwdriver in order to open the door - installation was simple, but expensive after that - $227 for both sides of the lockset overnighted - there were none in San Antonio), refer just went out. I have the CSP coverage, which will pay for a rebuilt sealed unit to be installed for $100. I didn't use CSP for the starter and door, as I use the motorhome almost daily to drive, and didn't want to put it out of commission, waiting for someone else to do the work - also, they wouldn't have paid for the overnight on the lockset anyway). I am at 89K miles now. If I keep this unit more than one more year, I am looking at some serious renovation of the interior - though it is still doing okay (no tears - just worn). If I do that, I will probably look at someone doing some reengineering on the slide, so I can eliminate the leaking once and for all (open or closed). Overall, ownership of this unit has been a satisfying experience. I really do believe the assertion of Chevy that the 8.1 is good for 200K miles. Also, though I have read some nightmares about the smaller ONANs, and had misgivings about the lack of a low oil shutoff, or oil filter, I have used the H--- out of that unit, with virtually no problems for 5 summers! The cost of ownership for 100K miles will actually be minimal. When I get to that point in the next year, I will summarize what I have spent for preventive and corrective maintenance.
Dan Walker