They WILL get hot, but it shouldn't feel like you're walking up to a BBQ grill. That's how ours was. Does it feel like the brakes are being applied on their own?
I don't think your year has Anti-lock Front Brakes. Are you able to confirm that? They're a mystery to me, but I suppose an ABS could cause the brakes to not release once applied. From the little I've read an Anti-lock failure cause Anti-lock to not help prevent a skid. Not keep brakes from being applied.
BOTH rotors are hot? About equally? If so:
1. Brake linkage could be mis-adjusted or binding up. This would be the same as "riding the brake" by not completely removing your foot when finished braking.
2. What can happen is the compensating port in the master cylinder can "heal up" with corrosion. Check this diagram:
The pushrod to your brake pedal/booster is to the RIGHT, so Brakes apply as the Piston moves Right-to-Left. As pictured, the Brake Pedal is NOT depressed (meaning a physical pushing down by the driver's foot as opposed to an emotional state of not being able to cope with life in general). Note that the Compensating Ports (which are drawn in the illustration as small, notice that) allow fluid to return to the cylinder's reservoir chambers. If the compensating ports are not open, fluid is trapped between the RELEASED master cylinder piston and the pistons in the calipers. This causes the brakes to drag. The dragging creates heat. The heat expands the fluid. Expanded fluid, more pressure, more braking... An Intervention is required. I rebuild the master cylinder in a Toyota we had, TWICE, before I noticed a little speck in the bore. Looked from the top and saw a hole headed down to the speck and my light didn't shine through. I couldn't poke a wire through there, required a small drill bit. NOTE: If you do this at home, hone the bore again in case the drilling put a burr in there. ANYHOW, Ron, the key to troubleshooting this is: Drive it till the brakes get hot. Ideally you'd jack the front end up, get at least one wheel off the ground. I think you'd find the wheel won't turn. Open the bleeder on the OPPOSITE side. Fluid should spurt out as it does when you're bleeding the brakes. Except nobody's pushing the pedal... At that point, the wheel you raised should turn more easily. Repeat the process, jacking the side you released at the bleeder the first time. Release the bleeder on the side you jacked the first time. Fluid should spurt and the jacked wheel should be released.
--OR-- you could drive till brakes got hot and just crack the brake line at the master cylinder. If fluid spurts, you know there was unreleased pressure in the lines.
You just have to be sure the Master Cylinder is fully released. The Pistons have to be all the way to the RIGHT as shown in the diagram so the compensating ports are open to the reservoirs.
Disk brake system is much more likely to plug the comp port than a drum system. Disks don't have Springs pulling the Calipers and Pads back from the Rotors. Fluid doesn't gush back like with Drums which have Return Springs at their Shoes.
If you still have my number, you're welcome to call.
I don't think your year has Anti-lock Front Brakes. Are you able to confirm that? They're a mystery to me, but I suppose an ABS could cause the brakes to not release once applied. From the little I've read an Anti-lock failure cause Anti-lock to not help prevent a skid. Not keep brakes from being applied.
BOTH rotors are hot? About equally? If so:
1. Brake linkage could be mis-adjusted or binding up. This would be the same as "riding the brake" by not completely removing your foot when finished braking.
2. What can happen is the compensating port in the master cylinder can "heal up" with corrosion. Check this diagram:
The pushrod to your brake pedal/booster is to the RIGHT, so Brakes apply as the Piston moves Right-to-Left. As pictured, the Brake Pedal is NOT depressed (meaning a physical pushing down by the driver's foot as opposed to an emotional state of not being able to cope with life in general). Note that the Compensating Ports (which are drawn in the illustration as small, notice that) allow fluid to return to the cylinder's reservoir chambers. If the compensating ports are not open, fluid is trapped between the RELEASED master cylinder piston and the pistons in the calipers. This causes the brakes to drag. The dragging creates heat. The heat expands the fluid. Expanded fluid, more pressure, more braking... An Intervention is required. I rebuild the master cylinder in a Toyota we had, TWICE, before I noticed a little speck in the bore. Looked from the top and saw a hole headed down to the speck and my light didn't shine through. I couldn't poke a wire through there, required a small drill bit. NOTE: If you do this at home, hone the bore again in case the drilling put a burr in there. ANYHOW, Ron, the key to troubleshooting this is: Drive it till the brakes get hot. Ideally you'd jack the front end up, get at least one wheel off the ground. I think you'd find the wheel won't turn. Open the bleeder on the OPPOSITE side. Fluid should spurt out as it does when you're bleeding the brakes. Except nobody's pushing the pedal... At that point, the wheel you raised should turn more easily. Repeat the process, jacking the side you released at the bleeder the first time. Release the bleeder on the side you jacked the first time. Fluid should spurt and the jacked wheel should be released.
--OR-- you could drive till brakes got hot and just crack the brake line at the master cylinder. If fluid spurts, you know there was unreleased pressure in the lines.
You just have to be sure the Master Cylinder is fully released. The Pistons have to be all the way to the RIGHT as shown in the diagram so the compensating ports are open to the reservoirs.
Disk brake system is much more likely to plug the comp port than a drum system. Disks don't have Springs pulling the Calipers and Pads back from the Rotors. Fluid doesn't gush back like with Drums which have Return Springs at their Shoes.
If you still have my number, you're welcome to call.
Perhaps they brake line is not releasing the pressure when you release the brake pedal.....that was my problem on mine,check valva or what ever it is called. Cheap and easy to replace after you confirm it is at fault
