Breakdown Information

[Badeye]

Moderators Note: This thread is intending to report a problem and its resolution. If you are seeking help or information to help you resolve a problem you would best be served by initiating a thread on the class A forum proper

After some conversation with Diesel-Lover and others on this forum I thought I would try to start a thread concerning breakdowns on the road. We try to prevent this by good maintenance and driving reasonably but it can still happen. As I observed in a previous post, on a roughly 350 mile northbound drive on I-75 I saw 4 class A MH broken down. All were southbound.

If we should have a breakdown and would post the following information on this thread it could be a resource and reminder for others.

RV particulars:
Driveline (Engine, Transmission):
Miles:
Year:
Break Down Description: (You can add any description of the problem here that you think would help others in understanding the situation and problem.)
Symptoms:
Effect:
Cause:
Outcome:

This is the type of information that is recorded in the aircraft industry and other maintenance activities to track failure trends. It will take a while before we see a lot of value in this. If it continues for a time and sufficient data is available, I will analyze the data and put it into a form that I can send by email to any interested parties. I would suspect that an initial report could be done in about three months or when we have about 100 to 150 cases.

What do you think?

[efenclau2077]

May 14th 2009 Fredricksburg MD , 2000 Damon Challenger Workhorse P32 chassis, 7500 miles, after going through heavy traffic brake pedal went to floor when pushed. Pumping brake pedal gave limited brake action. The pedal felt as though there was a leak in the hydraulic line. Examination by mechanic showed that calipers did not release completely and overheated. Calipers, rotors, hoses, and pads replaced.

[Mainship]

6 years and 64 PAGES of problems and still no summary.

After reading all 454 gas breakdowns, it seems to be a common occurance to be sensors telling computer to shutdown engine for preservation. My question is which sensors can be bypassed to keep engine running until it is convenient to repair.
1999 Chevy 454, still trying to workout 2 engine shutdowns, NO error codes in the computer, first time after two hours at 55mph, no power coasted to side of road. It restarted after checking all fluids, second time again after two hours of driving but at a traffic light on proceeding into intersection, power was limited, it was running enough to make it though intersection, pulling to side of road, turned of key and restarted, drove last mile to home and parked.

[Hbuie]

Sorry to be posting to this thread, but....
!996 - Bounder; 34'.
Chevy P30 chassis with 454 engine and 44k miles.

Driving North on I75 just past I275, and I, thankfully, had cleared the construction zone, and it just died! No electric, no nothin'. I coasted to the side of the road. Called for a tow. After about an hour and a half, I heard a clicking. It was the emergency flashers. I then turned the ignition key and it started right up. Cancelled the tow and continued on home. Taking it back to the dealer for a checkup in a week and a half (earliest appointment I could get). Don't know cause, but using the emergency power button didn't help. Weather was light rain and I had headlights and wipers on. We'll see what it was, I hope...

[pianodan]

A year ago, February: Got the m/h out for a trip south and west to Wadena (about 2 hrs), while it was warming up in the driveway, my wife attempted to back it up-no reverse gear!! I did all the troubleshooting, called Allison, confirmation that the reverse gear was toast (96k mi. on m/h). I called and web searched for an affordable replacement, Mills Big Truck/Ford in Brainerd, MN was able to get me a factory rebuilt w/12 month warranty for $1500.00 plus tax and shipping. I spent a good part of May (and around $1800.00)in the r/r of the unit.I also did a complete brake job and replaced a few tires at this time, so my final bill ran about $2900.00 on completion.
For everybody that has an Allison 542, be aware that if you hear a funny noise in reverse, you'll lose the reverse gear (mine took about 6k mi. after the noise before it was gone). Allison no longer makes or rebuilds the 542 series due to this problem, the 545 which I now have is the direct bolt in replacement, it was an option when the 542 was installed, but most m/h manufacturers as well as school bus and trash truck mfg all went the cheap route with the 542. The reverse gears are smaller on the 542 (less meat on the teeth etc.),so with the heavy loads required to move, eventually all the teeth strip, and you have no reverse.

[E_d]

being an owner of a '97 ford class A and having the stall problem several years ago, Heck of a vacation. You can probably search for the fuel pump problem and see myself and several others who have experienced this issue. Anyway, It was the fuel pump, in the fuel tank. It cost around $850.00 about 3-4 years ago. They can do a fuel pressue test at the dealer and let you know if it's the fuel pump. It makes things easier if your tank is empty or as close as possible when they work on it. Get it fixed now, don't wait until your on a trip and you have all kinds of problems and pay more to have it fixed.

[rdcoop059]

Rock guard;

We have a 2008 Fleet wood Providence 40E. The dealer install a rock guard on the coach. We drove it home and discover the rock guard had bent and damage the underside of our coach. This is a fleet wood design rock guard for the providence. We were told the reason it was not install because this rock guard would damage the coach . It is a standard manufacture item. Have anyone had a problem with rock guard damage on a fleet wood motor homes.

[admiral0647]

In late July, on returning from a 1,200 mile trip, I noticed my F53 rear axle seal leaking, badly. Oil coating all over RR Duals and rear of camper. The unit was purchased new last fall and has 5,500 miles on it. We live in east central Illinois. I called Ford Assistance for guidance since our local car dealer did not want to look at it. (38ft long, 12ft high). I finally got through to Ford RV Warranty Service, (800) 444-3311, and they suggested other Ford dealers within 30 miles. I called each of them and no luck. Ford then said If I paid an independent repair shop up front, I could submit the bill to Ford. The independent needed to use authorized Ford parts and procedures. Ford said a 2 hour job.

August 5th the MH went in to a big truck independent (with a good local reputation). I had discussed it with the owner, and he had inspected the unit. They had spoken to Ford and ordered the parts (seal and brake pads). I kept the parts that were replaced and I submitted the bill to FORD. I even took a couple photos.

Update:
I had the independent shop do the repair to the leaking axle seal in August, and I sent the claim for reimbursement to Ford as directed.

Today, December 8, 2008, I received a check for the full amount of the rear axle repair from FORD Motor Co.

I am very happy with the results on this warranty repair claim on my motor home.

Ford RV Assistance is (800) 444-3311

[mdbass]

How do I make this short? We own a 1996 Holiday Rambler Endeavor with a B series Cummins. While having a PM performed the shop found a fuel leak emanating from the front half of the vehicle. A local shop said the fuel tank had to be dropped and couldn't handle it. We ended up traveling 50 plus miles to a diesel repair facility located off of the interstate. As it turns out, $700 later the tank was dropped and the fuel lines to the generator; which were dry rotting, were replaced. Here's the rub and somehow it's all connected. While jostling the tank, apparently all kinds of gunk was loosened in the process. Also, there was a loss of fuel pressure somewhere down the line. Things then failed in progression over a 4-6 week period. We lost the fuel solenoid shutoff valve and then the lift pump. Along the way we replaced three fuel filters, including the lift pump filter which failed on the trip to check everything out. The moral of the story is to regularly treat your tank with a good quality biocide and fuel treatment and to have pm's performed regularly. As older coaches become more affordable, more people are going to have these problems. If you buy one have a mechanic thoroughly inspect the coach; you'll be money ahead.

[my49packard]

SNUFFYSMITH wrote:
RV Particulars:
DSDP 38'
Driveline 3124 CAT
300 HP Alison 3060
Mileage: 63000

Breakdown description: Pulling into a rest stop, shut engine off. About 40 minutes later, while pulling out of rest stop, pouring the coals to the MH to get out into traffice,lost all power, big back fire. Check engine light came on and a couple more lights came on for an instant. Then power came back, but it was scary out there. If I take off slow, it's okay, but dangerous.

Outcome: Primary fuel filter fuel line that goes to engine has very soft rubber - it goes over the engine computer on its way to the engine. Power cables coming from battery compartment go over the fuel line and smashes it almost flat. Solution: Rerouted fuel line - so far, so good.

al

So where was the back fire noise coming from ? Dave P

[my49packard]

Dick A wrote:
RV particulars: Rexhall F-53 chassis
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): Ford 460, E40D transmission
Miles: 32,000
Year: 1994
Break Down Description: (2002) Engine stalled on warm day at St. Charles, MO
Symptoms: engine popping and backfiring, no power.
Effect: Engine hot and stalled - symptom was like vapor lock.

Outcome: Let engine cool. Engine then started and made it to RV park (Sundermier). Stayed a few days, checked all fluids, changed fuel filter on frame rail. Continued trip. Would run ok as long as we were at highway speeds. Would stall sometimes when pulling off to fuel. Managed to get home a week later after a stop in Wyoming. We had the thermostat changed there, but no help. I had ordered a full Banks system before leaving for trip. During subsequent installation, found radiator plastic tank seal broken. Replaced radiator. Also, several exhaust manifold bolts broken, causing excessive heat in the engine area. Probably causing vapor lock problems. Replaced one head with broken manifold flange, had all valves replaced on both heads, water pump, hoses, fan clutch, etc. Changed all fluids to synthetic, added B & M extra capacity transmission pan and transmission temperature gauge. No problems in 2003 traveling over 8500 miles. Preventative maintenance before 2004 trip: Replace in-tank fuel pump known for early failure.

Problems with your 2002 Rexhall? I would think that it being not that old that your manifold bolts should not have been broken, unless someone tightened them down too tight at some point in time.
Also your fuel pump being replaced as a preventive maintanince action is a good thought. Would that have been a factroy recall thing that they would cover the cost ?
We are getting ready to buy a 2003 Rexhall Rose Air. Is the fuel pump on the 2003 model something that I should ask the present owners about ? Was that a big expense to replace ? Good luck with your RV. Sounds like you've taken all the precautions to prevent any future breakdowns. Thank you for your story. It is one that we will not forget because of our soon to be Rexhall owners. Dave Packard

[my49packard]

campingshadow wrote:
RV particulars: 2002 Georgie Boy Cruise Master
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): W22 w/ Alison 8.1
Miles: 8,000
Year: 2003
Break Down Description: Key will not turn in ignition, unable to shift gears while parked
Symptoms: Cannot turn key - cannot move vehicle
Effect: Total lock up of steering wheel and ignition
Cause: loose fuse
Outcome: After being towed 200 miles, fuse was reseated and all worked fine after that.

I pulled into a gas station and turned off the engine to fill the tank with gas. When I went to restart the engine, the key would not move. The gearshift lever was locked solid. The steering wheel was locked solid. Was under Warranty by Workhorse so called for repairs. They towed me 200 miles (back from where I had come from) to nearest W repair facility. Spent the night at the repair facility and next morning repairman came out and checked fuses under the hood AND under the dash by left foot. One fuse was loose (in box by foot). Pushed it in and everything worked perfectly. Resumed trip with no problems.
Very expensive fuse....tow bill alone was $1500....paid by Workhorse.

Shadow

Wow what a crazy expense for a loose fuse. Your lucky Workhorse paid the bill. Lesson I learned here is that I should know the different kind of fuses that are used on my rig and carry extra ones. I also learned that you could not turn the ignition key if the fuse was blown. I never knew there was an electricial connection for the ignition key to work. Dave P.

[my49packard]

kjames90755 wrote:

Phred42044 wrote:
2000 HR Endeavor DP 46000 miles.
Cat 300 HP w/ Allison 6 Speed Tranny.
Problem: Driving along and engine was losing power. Would idle and sometimes get up to full power but would ultimately "chug chug" down the road. Finally made it to a rest stop and got some family to come help me. Chugged it to the nearest diesel mechanic who immediately diagnosed the problem as a fuel separator (filter?). Changed separator and the thing ran like a champ. The mechanic said it is good practice to change the fuel separator once a year under normal driving conditions as diesel fuel is mighty nasty stuff. He also mentioned that when taking off the old filter there was visible trash in and around the filter. I got off luck with a $20 filter and $75 in labor.

The fuel separator is actually a filter to separate water from the diesel oil fuel...when they get full, the water has to be released, and the filter changed--most engines mfrs. recommend doing this whenever you have an oil change at a minimum, whether it needs it or not--you don't want water in a diesel engine...

You would think the people who change your oil would automatically change the fuel separator. I am glad I read this post. Thanks for the tip. Dave P.

[my49packard]

my49packard wrote:

my49packard wrote:

JDelauter wrote:
RV particulars:
Driveline Cummins 275 Allison 6-spd
Miles: 37000
Year:1999 Coachmen Sportscoach
Break Down Description: Driving west on I-10, 150 miles from Houston. Engine overheating. Coolant level fine. Slowed to 60 m.p.h. and stopped dash a/c. Made it to California to a Cummins dealer. Split exhaust manifold. Turbo shot. Hole in turbo exhaust pipe. Engine side of radiator blocked with gunk because Freightliiner does not install the road exhaust tube to prevent oil blow-by after moving the radiator to the rear of the engine. Total cost to me: $4300 out-of-pocket. Story gets better as I am headed home (Florida). Bottom line: $7300 from me, zero from extended warranty or Cummins.
Symptoms: Overheating
Effect:
Cause:
Outcome

I am 59 and my wife a little younger. We are getting ready to go RV ing full time as soon as we sell our home and get us into an RV. We are looking at a 36 foot Rexhall Rose Air for our first RV.
I am sorry to hear that you had such problems with your RV.
We are new to this forum, it's part of our RV life style research before we get in the RV living world. This is a great site about break downs and solutions to read and learn what possibilities are out there for problems.
Thanks for sharing your breakdown expierence with us. I hope your Rig is running tip top now. Dave P in NC
PS: I hated spelling in school so when you see my mispelled words, oh well, I tried to get it right. Ha Ha. Dave

My wife and I hope to be going RV ing full time as soon as we sell our home and get us into an RV. We are looking at a 36 foot Rexhall Rose Air for our first RV. We also like Gulfstream but found this Rexhall that we love in Florida.
I am sorry to hear that you had such problems with your RV
We are new to this forum, it's part of our RV life style research before we get in the RV living world. This is a great site about break downs and solutions to read and learn what possibilities are out there for problems.
Thanks for sharing your breakdown expierence with us. I hope your Rig is running tip top now. I would hope that a newer rv would not have as many problems as yours and others do. Thats a mighty big expense out of pocket while your on the road.
Your first paid $4300, but by the end of the trip you spent $7300. What was the other $4000. spent on ? Another break down ?
Dave P in NC
PS: I hated spelling in school so when you see my mispelled words, oh well, I tried to get it right. Ha Ha. Dave

[pfunk]

RV:2000 Holiday Rambler Endeavor
Engine: Cat 3126
Transmission: Allison 6 Speed

Symptoms: Release of all air pressure when releasing park brake
Found park chamber to have broke spring which ripped the diafram and upon removal corroded fitting/line

Actions: tried to cage the brake and the rod was off center with the spring, next day after getting a ride home I found a truck shop that had the chamber I needed (2430 long stroke) taking off the old one took a bit of guts since the brake couldn't be caged and had to release the chamber from the bracket still attached to the slack arm. It didn't move much since the spring was broke (told the wife to dial 91 and keep her finger over the 1) noticed a line was cross threading and upon inspection the threads nerled over when I removed it,, went to Travel America and they had a line for me and a new fitting,, it was getting late and since I wasn't that far from home (and had to work today) I plugged the lines tied em up and took it home. I still have to install the chamber (measure and fit (cut) the pushrod to the other side since I couldn't cage the original),, But I don't have to be in a rush to do so (paying another day)
Total Cost = 121
2430ls from Southwest brake in Hamtramck, mi $63
Airline and Fitting from TA $58 (I think is overpriced, but they were a couple miles away)
Having a brake job like that done with flat tow would probably be 1500 or more

[Badeye]

RV:2005 Sportscoach Elite 401TS
Engine: Cat C7
Transmission: Allison 6 Speed

Symptoms: Application of exhaust brake and service brake would result in a warning light and a message that said, "Brake Fuse 5.6 volts" "Below Threshold 7.0 volts." Exhaust brake is equipped with Brake Switch controller.

Exhaust brake did not activate and transmission did not down shift. Exhaust brake light on panel did not come on.

Found later that brake lights were not coming on either.

Actions: Called Coach net and they put me in touch with Freightliner Oasis facility in LaCrosse WI, about 80 miles away. Since service brakes were working I could drive there. They were open even though it was Sunday but they could not get me in as it was about 2:30 when I arrived. They got me in 7:00 on Monday morning and finally isolated the problem to a shorted wire going to the Brake Switch module. Took the Brake Switch module out of the circuit till I get home and can find the short and all is well. Four hours trouble shooting time, etc for a total cost of $517.