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Brite Tek roof vs Fiberglass

jg6182
Explorer
Explorer
I hope I don't get any arguments started here, but I was wondering if it would be better to order a Newmar,(if that's what I'll eventually choose,) with a fiberglass roof or would the standard Brite Tek roof be the better way to go. I will be leaving the motorhome stored outside when not in use and occasionally we have hail storms. Brite Tek would seem to be logical, but what about tree limbs and the Texas sun?

Thanks
24 REPLIES 24

jg6182
Explorer
Explorer
It looks like either way you go,(Brite Tek or Fiberglass,) there's still going to be maintenance involved. How often and what will need to be done depends on which kind of roof you have and how much TLC you want to take. I see I've started an argument after all. That wasn't my intent. It's all good guys.

Bumpyroad
Explorer
Explorer
John&Joey wrote:
DanTheRVMan wrote:
Bumpyroad wrote:
harold1946 wrote:
All seams and protrusions should be checked at least once a year. I do it twice a year. The ac units have a gasket and require no caulking.
Fiberglass, whether a gelcoat or painted finish, should be waxed or coated with a UV protectant. It will oxidize just as any other finish.
Brite Tek requires only checking and resealing of seams and protrusions.


drive by any marina and note those chunks of fiberglass floating in the water. no waxing, no UV protectant, nothing except perhaps rubbing off algae every once in a while. other than caulking the seams and various things mounted on the roof, nothing else needs to be done.
bumpy


Not a good comparison

Boats are made of multi layered cloth and resin and are very strong and very expensive

Fiberglass roofs are chopped fiber and resin easily crack and are very cheap

I do not want to switch this to a tiffin roof cracking thread, but fiberglass is far from perfect


Yep, like apples are to oranges. Anyone who is using a boat hull to a RV roof for comparison is really showing how little they know on the topic and how much they rely on the internet for their information.

Not saying Brite Tek is the way to go, but it has many pluses that should not be dismissed. One of them is if you're buying a new rig why not use the saved money to get options that will make your life better during the time you own the rig. Who cares what the guy does 20 years from now that is buying the rig on the cheap.


exactly how does the "surface" of a fiberglass boat differ from the surface of a fiberglass motorhome? obviously the thickness, backing,etc. differs.

and as far as the snide comment on relying on the internet for information I would like to point out that I have had fiberglass boats/Rvs, etc. for over 50 years and have had the "enjoyment" of owning two rubber roofed RVs.
how many years experience with fiberglass "toys" have you had?


bumpy

John_Joey
Explorer
Explorer
DanTheRVMan wrote:
Bumpyroad wrote:
harold1946 wrote:
All seams and protrusions should be checked at least once a year. I do it twice a year. The ac units have a gasket and require no caulking.
Fiberglass, whether a gelcoat or painted finish, should be waxed or coated with a UV protectant. It will oxidize just as any other finish.
Brite Tek requires only checking and resealing of seams and protrusions.


drive by any marina and note those chunks of fiberglass floating in the water. no waxing, no UV protectant, nothing except perhaps rubbing off algae every once in a while. other than caulking the seams and various things mounted on the roof, nothing else needs to be done.
bumpy


Not a good comparison

Boats are made of multi layered cloth and resin and are very strong and very expensive

Fiberglass roofs are chopped fiber and resin easily crack and are very cheap

I do not want to switch this to a tiffin roof cracking thread, but fiberglass is far from perfect


Yep, like apples are to oranges. Anyone who is using a boat hull to a RV roof for comparison is really showing how little they know on the topic and how much they rely on the internet for their information.

Not saying Brite Tek is the way to go, but it has many pluses that should not be dismissed. One of them is if you're buying a new rig why not use the saved money to get options that will make your life better during the time you own the rig. Who cares what the guy does 20 years from now that is buying the rig on the cheap.
There’s no fool, like an old fool.

harold1946
Explorer
Explorer
Amazing isn't it. I wonder why there are always posts about how to restore the finish, (be it painted or gel-coat) by so many, and yet there are those that say there is no maintenance required.
As I stated before a fiberglass roof, properly maintained, will outlast any of the so called "rubber roof" materials ie. EPDM, TPO but it will oxidize just as any other finish.
Harold and Linda
2009 CT Coachworks siena 35V
W-22 Workhorse 8.1L
Explorer Sport toad

DanTheRVMan
Explorer
Explorer
Bumpyroad wrote:
harold1946 wrote:
All seams and protrusions should be checked at least once a year. I do it twice a year. The ac units have a gasket and require no caulking.
Fiberglass, whether a gelcoat or painted finish, should be waxed or coated with a UV protectant. It will oxidize just as any other finish.
Brite Tek requires only checking and resealing of seams and protrusions.


drive by any marina and note those chunks of fiberglass floating in the water. no waxing, no UV protectant, nothing except perhaps rubbing off algae every once in a while. other than caulking the seams and various things mounted on the roof, nothing else needs to be done.
bumpy


Not a good comparison

Boats are made of multi layered cloth and resin and are very strong and very expensive

Fiberglass roofs are chopped fiber and resin easily crack and are very cheap

I do not want to switch this to a tiffin roof cracking thread, but fiberglass is far from perfect
Dan
Tiffin Phaeton
Allegro Red 36ft Sold

Bumpyroad
Explorer
Explorer
Semi Retired Grandpa wrote:
harold1946 wrote:
Bumpyroad wrote:
harold1946 wrote:
All seams and protrusions should be checked at least once a year. I do it twice a year. The ac units have a gasket and require no caulking.
Fiberglass, whether a gelcoat or painted finish, should be waxed or coated with a UV protectant. It will oxidize just as any other finish.
Brite Tek requires only checking and resealing of seams and protrusions.


drive by any marina and note those chunks of fiberglass floating in the water. no waxing, no UV protectant, nothing except perhaps rubbing off algae every once in a while. other than caulking the seams and various things mounted on the roof, nothing else needs to be done.
bumpy


I own one of those boats, and believe me they do oxodize and need protection from UV. Instead of just driving by, walk down and swipe your hand across the gunnel.
I guess it depends on whether one wants to keep it in top shape or let it deteriorate. Its pretty easy to spot the ones that are cared for and the neglected ones, even from a distance.
Go to the search bar and type in gel coat. You may be amazed at the number of posts regarding oxidation and fading of gelcoat.



Agree. Have left a sail boat in the water for extended periods - in saltwater on both east and west coasts - with very little maintenance required (teak trim being the only continual maintenance required other than annual bottom cleaning/paint). Also owned a trailerable fiberglass boat for 18 years w/o more than a general washing ever required to keep it looking like new. Also owned an Itasca MH with an aluminum roof for 18 years - used summer and winter - w/o so much as having to caulk a roof seam. More recently owned a Winnebago MH with fiberglass roof from 2005 until 2013 with extended trips thru the very hot SW and twice to Alaska w/o any roof maintenance - no caulking, no leaks, no problem. Looked like new when we sold it the first part of 2013. When purchasing a new MH eliminated from consideration all those w/o fiberglass roofs because of too many reported problems and long term maintenance requirements with other materials.


yep, I've owned fiberglass RVs, boats, etc. for 54 years so I claim to be familiar with what happens when they are left out in the open. yes, they will "look" better if you wax them up but the last fiberglass boat I bought about 1-2 years ago was a 1973 fiberglass Ranger bass boat. strange how that 40 year old chunk of fiberglass hasn't fallen apart by now.

now if one is naive enough to think that TPO is "better" than fiberglass, go ahead and buy one. heck, buy a rubber roofed one if you really want to punish yourself.

bumpy

John_Joey
Explorer
Explorer
FWIW, I don't think you can compare a boat hull to a roof of a MH. I'm sure the thickness and the quality of the cloth is just the tip of the iceberg in differences.
There’s no fool, like an old fool.

Semi_Retired_Gr
Explorer
Explorer
harold1946 wrote:
Bumpyroad wrote:
harold1946 wrote:
All seams and protrusions should be checked at least once a year. I do it twice a year. The ac units have a gasket and require no caulking.
Fiberglass, whether a gelcoat or painted finish, should be waxed or coated with a UV protectant. It will oxidize just as any other finish.
Brite Tek requires only checking and resealing of seams and protrusions.


drive by any marina and note those chunks of fiberglass floating in the water. no waxing, no UV protectant, nothing except perhaps rubbing off algae every once in a while. other than caulking the seams and various things mounted on the roof, nothing else needs to be done.
bumpy


Agree. Have left a sail boat in the water for extended periods - in saltwater on both east and west coasts - with very little maintenance required (teak trim being the only continual maintenance required other than annual bottom cleaning/paint). Also owned a trailerable fiberglass boat for 18 years w/o more than a general washing ever required to keep it looking like new. Also owned an Itasca MH with an aluminum roof for 18 years - used summer and winter - w/o so much as having to caulk a roof seam. More recently owned a Winnebago MH with fiberglass roof from 2005 until 2013 with extended trips thru the very hot SW and twice to Alaska w/o any roof maintenance - no caulking, no leaks, no problem. Looked like new when we sold it the first part of 2013. When purchasing a new MH eliminated from consideration all those w/o fiberglass roofs because of too many reported problems and long term maintenance requirements with other materials.

I own one of those boats, and believe me they do oxodize and need protection from UV. Instead of just driving by, walk down and swipe your hand across the gunnel.
I guess it depends on whether one wants to keep it in top shape or let it deteriorate. Its pretty easy to spot the ones that are cared for and the neglected ones, even from a distance.
Go to the search bar and type in gel coat. You may be amazed at the number of posts regarding oxidation and fading of gelcoat.
Gary & Liesel
Cocoa, our Chocolate Lab companion
2013 Tiffin 30 GA
2004 Honda Element Toad

Gjac
Explorer III
Explorer III
I have had 2 Class B's over the years and both Fiber glass roofs were baldly peeling clear coat and the gel coat cracking. I am not familiar with TPO but it is a thermoplastic as is the Rino material that everyone thinks is very durable.

harold1946
Explorer
Explorer
Bumpyroad wrote:
harold1946 wrote:
All seams and protrusions should be checked at least once a year. I do it twice a year. The ac units have a gasket and require no caulking.
Fiberglass, whether a gelcoat or painted finish, should be waxed or coated with a UV protectant. It will oxidize just as any other finish.
Brite Tek requires only checking and resealing of seams and protrusions.


drive by any marina and note those chunks of fiberglass floating in the water. no waxing, no UV protectant, nothing except perhaps rubbing off algae every once in a while. other than caulking the seams and various things mounted on the roof, nothing else needs to be done.
bumpy


I own one of those boats, and believe me they do oxodize and need protection from UV. Instead of just driving by, walk down and swipe your hand across the gunnel.
I guess it depends on whether one wants to keep it in top shape or let it deteriorate. Its pretty easy to spot the ones that are cared for and the neglected ones, even from a distance.
Go to the search bar and type in gel coat. You may be amazed at the number of posts regarding oxidation and fading of gelcoat.
Harold and Linda
2009 CT Coachworks siena 35V
W-22 Workhorse 8.1L
Explorer Sport toad

Bumpyroad
Explorer
Explorer
harold1946 wrote:
All seams and protrusions should be checked at least once a year. I do it twice a year. The ac units have a gasket and require no caulking.
Fiberglass, whether a gelcoat or painted finish, should be waxed or coated with a UV protectant. It will oxidize just as any other finish.
Brite Tek requires only checking and resealing of seams and protrusions.


drive by any marina and note those chunks of fiberglass floating in the water. no waxing, no UV protectant, nothing except perhaps rubbing off algae every once in a while. other than caulking the seams and various things mounted on the roof, nothing else needs to be done.
bumpy

RayChez
Explorer
Explorer
Caulking should be checked at least once a year for cracks on the caulking. But you can eliminate any more caulking by applying Eternabond tape over the joint.

I also prefer the fiber glass roof.
2002 Gulf Stream Scenic Cruiser
330 HP Caterpillar 3126-E
3000 Allison Transmission
Neway Freightliner chassis
2017 Buick Envision

harold1946
Explorer
Explorer
All seams and protrusions should be checked at least once a year. I do it twice a year. The ac units have a gasket and require no caulking.
Fiberglass, whether a gelcoat or painted finish, should be waxed or coated with a UV protectant. It will oxidize just as any other finish.
Brite Tek requires only checking and resealing of seams and protrusions.
Harold and Linda
2009 CT Coachworks siena 35V
W-22 Workhorse 8.1L
Explorer Sport toad

jg6182
Explorer
Explorer
Thanks Y'all for your help and suggestions.

Fordsooperdooty mentioned maintenance required even on a fiberglass roof. How often should I plan on recaulking around the vents and a/c. Is this something that should be done periodically on a Brite Tek as well.