Can't run both AC's in Texas

[flutesinger]

I have a Fleetwood Excursion 2008. My power kicks off if I run. Both AC's. all power goes down. It is HOT in Texas. The coach is 40 foot and should really cool us. Some electrical parts work plugs only, some lights. What is going on? If I start the coach the power will power up but still only 1 ac. Until it de idea to kick off. Then I start the motor and can get power to reset. NO clue

[WayneLee]

To the OP... The previous poster (Dennis) and I both have Monaco products, and my HR is a few years younger than yours so we have some experience with your electrical system. Your coach has an EMS (Electrical Management System) so if operating properly, it will control your system very well.

The back AC (zone 2) is controlled off one leg of the 50 amp service, your front AC plus most of the other 120 volt items work off the other leg. To me, since both AC's work on the generator, you probably don't have a problem with the interior wiring. You may check your breakers and feel them noticing if any are particularly hotter than others.

Your coach uses standard, 1/2 size, breakers in your box available at any home improvement center for the majority of your electrical circuits. You can easily replace a breakers that appear to be hotter. On my rig, one of my breakers was running "hot" and was causing unusual problems with the coach. I replaced that breaker and all problems left. Guess what breaker that was? It was the hot water heater.

In hot weather, a general issue with RV Parks is a lowering of voltage throughout the park with everyone running AC's. Using an autoformer type of product, you can keep your voltage up, but you lose amperage doing so. Bottom line, without an autoformer, you are probably experiencing a drop in voltage that your EMS system is trying to handle.

I agree with Dennis' suggestions as to the possible cause of your problem and how to fix it.

[Executive45]

A little late to this party but since everything works with your genset, my guess is one of two issues, both have been mentioned.

1. Campground pedestal. Since you said you had this problem at a previous campground, unless it's a coincidence, the pedestal is not the problem. That said, I would start there as it's the easiest to check. IMHO, your toolbox should contain two items...a voltmeter/continuity tester, inexpensive but take the time to learn how to use it, and a pedestal tester. Here's the link to one I made using parts from Home Depot...about $60 bucks...50 Amp Pedestal Tester. This will check voltage on each leg, whether the pedestal is wired correctly and check for an open neutral.

2. Your power cord. This would be my best suspect to your issue. The type you have will determine how you can test it. If you have the twistlok type, plug it in and test the other end with your voltmeter. If you have a fixed cord, you'll have to open the transfer switch to test it.

Both of these items are the easiest and simplest to check. If they check ok, then move into the heavy stuff. Do the simple stuff first..Dennis

[JetAonly]

I have camped at places where the voltage is low. Hot day everyone using AC and the voltage at the plug was 96volts. If your MH monitors its incoming power there me be some load shedding going on. The problem is not the MH but rather the Plug supply. Your volt meter will tell. You may have to run the generator during the day to stay cool. It's what I did.

[MrWizard]

NO.. a converter is a battery charger, not it will not drag down your 120v power on a 50amp service

IF you have a COMBInation converter/inverter
you maybe have problems on a circuit that uses the inverter part
if a relay or circuit board is bad or if there is loose wiring
how ever your A/C units should not be on the inverter circuit

flutesinger wrote:
Someone told me this could be a weak converter which could be reducing the 120 power the ac needs to run does that sound reasonable.?

[RedG]

Sounds to me like one side of the 50 amp on the cg pole is dead.
I'd be sure it's not the campground power before you start panicking and replacing stuff.
I just recently was at an RV park where only one side of the 50 amp service was working. Moved to another site and all was well.

[You_can_t_take_]

Hughes Auto-Former Clicky You will need the 50 Amp version. Clicky 2

[johnsonbert]

We just ran into a very similar situation on my BIL's 07 Contessa. We narrowed it down to the auto transfer switch. Everything worked fine on the generator, only one leg powered on the 50 amp shore power. He ended up moving a couple of wires around on the transfer switch to get shore power complete and then moved them back to use the generator on the road. He was going to clean the relay contacts in the switch to see if that would cure it, but suspected he would end up replacing the transfer switch. Hope this may help. Happy trails Bert

[Ranger_Smith]

It almost sounds like one of the hot legs in your 50 amp cord might be bad.

[Ranger_Smith]

flutesinger wrote:
The only breaker kicking off are hot H2O

I had a problem with the H2O breaker and the A/C breaker being next to each other in the panel,getting hot and tripping. I moved them around so they were not next to each other and problem went away

[mdprince]

I'd leave the water heater on LP for now, if possible.

[flutesinger]

Am going to buy a voltage meter ASAP. Also what is a voltage booster and do I need one

[doxiemom11]

We experienced not being able to even run 1 AC and the frig at the same time at a campground where the voltage was dropping to low when it was hot and crowded and everyone had their air on. This was in MI when it was in the 90's. We purchased a voltage booster to get thru the rest of the summer. We have now used it more than once and are glad we purchased it. With that we were able to use our 50 amp rig like you are supposed to be able to. Also helps when we have to hookup to 30 amp.

[RoyB]

Here is another nice drawing that may help you in measuring the 120VAC associated with the 50AMP connector...



Roy Ken

[YC_1]

If you still have issues. Make sure the breaker panel in the RV is not blocked by a closed closet door. If it is,open it and get a fan going on the front of the panel to get the breakers cooled off. Inside the panel is the EMS load shedding circuit board and the AC breakers themselves lose capacity with heavy heat loads. I recently had this issue after 5 years of use. Seemed a bit strange. I placed 1/8 inch spacers behind the screws to hold the face plate out a tiny bit. Runs much cooler now.