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Chevrolet Auto Park

jmstromquisst
Explorer
Explorer
I didn't think thoroughly enough about the downfalls of the Chevrolet chases when I bought my last motorhome. I've sure thought enough about it since. The previous owner had disabled the system (I still don't know how) so that it does not/cannot apply the brake. Instead of a functional Auto Park, I got a sticky note on the dash reminding me to disengage the brake before I drove off. After missing that step a few times and getting tired of brake smoke, I build an electronic alarm to remind me to take off the brake when shifting out of park . . . and to apply the brake when shifting back into park. The alarm works perfect, ever time; and now I've got the routine down real good. I wish I'd had the alarm sooner.

Now I've go an emergency brake pedal that goes to the floor and a brake that does not hold so good. I'm suspecting that my shoes are toast, so I'm looking at opening the brake up and having a look. Anyone had a go at this? Also, are there parts (such as shoes) available, or should I rely on the local clutch and brake rebuilders? I would really like to see this thing grab really good so I can trust the motorhome to stay put when I've applied the brake.


NOTE: Did you see the "Announcement : ★★READ BEFORE POSTING HERE★★" located at the top of this forum?
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25 REPLIES 25

jmstromquisst
Explorer
Explorer
I think it is a '94.

enblethen
Nomad
Nomad
You need to post year of your rig. The information you then would be more accurate to your rig.

Bud
USAF Retired
Pace Arrow


2003 Chev Ice Road Tracker

jmstromquisst
Explorer
Explorer
I've been doing a lot of study, and I think I have the type II system because there is no yellow knob and I still have the emergency brake pedal. I have crawled underneath (before I studied up on Auto Park) and could not figure out much. With a lot more knowledge and some diagrams and pictures in hand, I'm ready to return "down there." However, at this movement there is a lot of water and mud over the campground due to a recent storm, and winter is about to beset us. It's not looking good for more work soon. The post is part of ongoing research so I can be fully prepared when when I am able to get back to it. To be honest, I'm not sure there is anything wrong with the Auto Park system, the previous owner may have just defeated it just because they read some of the nightmare stories I have been reading. At this point I am undecided about if I really want to fix it, or if I just want to verify that it has been properly disabled. My most urgent repair is of the drive shaft brake; I want to disassemble it and check the shoes and drum to make sure it is not totally toast inside; I don't trust it to hold the RV. At this point I'm glad to have the alarm I put on the vehicle so I can intelligently operate the brake manually, that alarm also made it easy to explain the brake operation to my daughter, who may assist me to move the vehicle from time to time.

tropical36
Explorer
Explorer
jmstromquisst wrote:
I didn't think thoroughly enough about the downfalls of the Chevrolet chases when I bought my last motorhome. I've sure thought enough about it since. The previous owner had disabled the system (I still don't know how) so that it does not/cannot apply the brake. Instead of a functional Auto Park, I got a sticky note on the dash reminding me to disengage the brake before I drove off. After missing that step a few times and getting tired of brake smoke, I build an electronic alarm to remind me to take off the brake when shifting out of park . . . and to apply the brake when shifting back into park. The alarm works perfect, ever time; and now I've got the routine down real good. I wish I'd had the alarm sooner.

Now I've go an emergency brake pedal that goes to the floor and a brake that does not hold so good. I'm suspecting that my shoes are toast, so I'm looking at opening the brake up and having a look. Anyone had a go at this? Also, are there parts (such as shoes) available, or should I rely on the local clutch and brake rebuilders? I would really like to see this thing grab really good so I can trust the motorhome to stay put when I've applied the brake.


NOTE: Did you see the "Announcement : ??READ BEFORE POSTING HERE??" located at the top of this forum?
    "Forum Posting Help and Support is reserved for questions on how to post in the forums, signature and photo testing, reporting website or member account issues. Please avoid using Forum Posting Help and Support for RV related questions, as doing so can delay responses to your thread. Instead, create future threads in the RV FORUM which corresponds to the subject of your topic. Thank-you!"

OK, I'm going to have to make some assumptions here and figure on you having a late 90's version 3 with the yellow knob on the dash.
Seems that the switch on the side of the transmission that's controlled by the shift lever is not working and does the same thing as the yellow knob, in that it kills the power to the AP system and thereby sending it into default, which is brake ON!
The previous owner either couldn't repair it and/or didn't want to spend the the money for fixing or repairing it.
Least ways, you have a working AP and would suggest that you carry on board, a green pressure switch, for when it fails. Easy to replace, so do some studying and if you're really serious, contact the oldusedbear as already suggested. He'll also help you out of any jam and is the undisputed authority on the AutoPark.
"We are often so caught up in our destination that we forget to appreciate the journey."

07 Revolution LE 40E_Spartan MM_06 400HP C9 CAT_Allison 3000.

Dinghy_2010 Jeep Wrangler JKU ISLANDER.

1998 36ft. National Tropi-Cal Chevy Model 6350 (Sold)

wolfe10
Explorer
Explorer
Clicky: http://www.rvautopark.com/

Yes he is a great help on the autopark system.
Brett Wolfe
Ex: 2003 Alpine 38'FDDS
Ex: 1997 Safari 35'
Ex: 1993 Foretravel U240

Diesel RV Club:http://www.dieselrvclub.org/

tippytoe
Explorer
Explorer
Good info here: http://www.rvautopark.com/

Gjac
Explorer III
Explorer III
RLS7201 wrote:
There is an adjustment slot on the rear/top of the E brake assembly. Just like the old drum brakes on cars. I suspect an adjustment is all you need.

Richard
I do mine as Richard describes with a brake adjusting tool, you can also use a big blade screw driver. Chock the front wheels and lift the rear wheels off the ground. There is a star wheel for adjustment inside the slot at the top. Adjust until the rear tires can't be spun by hand. Then test to see if it holds on a hill. If you feel uncomfortable with the rear wheels off the ground try a few turns of the star wheel then see if it holds on a hill release the parking brake and see if it rolls freely down the hill, there will be a little brake scraping noise but it should roll freely. You may have to adjust it several times to get it right. I doubt that two times forgetting to remove the brake will wear your shoes down that much, it is not used like regular brakes that wear when applied.

rhagfo
Explorer III
Explorer III
If your parking brake is adjusted correctly and set correctly you should not be able to easily drive off! One should not need an alarm to remind you!
Russ & Paula the Beagle Belle.
2016 Ram Laramie 3500 Aisin DRW 4X4 Long bed.
2005 Copper Canyon 293 FWSLS, 32' GVWR 12,360#

"Visit and Enjoy Oregon State Parks"

RLS7201
Explorer
Explorer
There is an adjustment slot on the rear/top of the E brake assembly. Just like the old drum brakes on cars. I suspect an adjustment is all you need.

Richard
95 Bounder 32H F53 460
2013 CRV Toad
2 Segways in Toad
First brake job
1941 Hudson

1492
Moderator
Moderator

enblethen
Nomad
Nomad
No information on what year or model you have. I had my shop do the parking brake shoes along with a spring kit.
I didn't want to do it my self because I had heard about issues. They had no problem on doing it.
Parking brake shoes

Bud
USAF Retired
Pace Arrow


2003 Chev Ice Road Tracker