Chevy P-30 w/454 owners?

[udidwht]

I was curious to know from other (P-30 454 owners) of common issues that the Chevy 454 would have during a trip? I'm planning on driving from Seattle - Orlando, Fl (poss. Keys) and then back the southern route to southern Ca. then north to Seattle next year and am getting the RV ready ahead of time.

I purchased the RV in Sept. 2014 and it had 46,XXX (US) miles on it. It also had the roof completely redone. RV now has just over 51,XXX (US)miles. It runs great and will average 9-10 mpg (US).

1995 Fleetwood Southwind Storm 28ft
P-30 chassis
Chevy 454 w/ 4L80E Trans
OD reading - 50,XXX currently

What I've done thus far:

Full tune up (Sept 2014) - Plugs, wires, rotor, cap, air filter (also purchased some Hi-temp heat shield sleeves (2000F) for plugs)

Full trans service (Sept 2014)

Rear differential serviced (Sept 2014)

Cleaned throttle body & replaced fuel filter on chassis (Sept 2014).

Serviced radiator (Sept 2014)

Replaced all (3) belts and rebuilt drive axle (Jan 2016)

New Michelin tires (6) (Sept 2014)

Serviced Onan generator (oil filter, Synthetic oil, serviced spark arrestor (359hrs total) (Jan 2016_

Chassis lubed (Sept 2014)

Much appreciated

[Gjac]

You have gotten a lot of good advice so far. Most off us with a 454 P-30 chassis are heavier than yours and are working a lot harder. Not mention yet is the IFS front end. Check the ride height on the front end. I spent a small fortune on it. The newer straight front axels are much simpler. Check also the ball joints and other front end components, also I had a ball joint let go on a trip last year. Older cooling systems are always suspect. Your radiator can be checked with an IR gun from the inlet(where the thermostat housing is) to the outlet(lower radiator hose) in a 2-4 in grid pattern. Look for cold spots in the center of the radiator indicating blocked tubes. Also you should see a 50 degree change in temperature from top to bottom if your radiator is cooling effectively. Headers will eliminate exhaust manifold leaks and add about 80 more HP with a cooler running engine. I have 107k miles on mine and the engine and transmission itself has not been a problem(yet). It seems like every trip something fails and needs to be replaced or fixed so expect some unknown problems and enjoy your trip.

[udidwht]

No desire to tow anything.

[tropical36]

udidwht wrote:

Peralko wrote:
The weak link in your setup is the 4L80 transmission. Ours just gave up the ghost on the road to Colorado around 1995 (1991 Pace Arrow). No particular reason--we weren't towing and it happened on flat ground. We even had an extra transmission oil cooler on it. Not much you can do about it--later versions used an Allison transmission. All I can do is wish you good luck!

New news to me. The 4L80E is a work horse and has an undeniably reliable track record.

I'll have to agree. Only thing is, with a big coach, there isn't a lot of GCWR, so consequently you're out of specs. with towing much.
Thing is, you never know it, until you do some 6% grades for more than two or three miles in the heat of summer. Even then if the tranny gets too hot, it will go into limp mode to save itself. You also go up in low gear at 25mph max and gain another 25&, so once you get to know her, this should probably be done before it bogs down at approx. 270F and a tranny temp gauge would be good to have.

[udidwht]

Chopperbob wrote:
Replace the brake lines. Mills catalog has them.
Anything rubber is suspect. Also I would replace the
muffler because of the restriction. I used a three inch straight thru from Magnaflow. It reduces the heat from engine and exh manifolds which are
known to crack.

Added...The muffler and pipe do not look stock (bigger).

[udidwht]

Peralko wrote:
The weak link in your setup is the 4L80 transmission. Ours just gave up the ghost on the road to Colorado around 1995 (1991 Pace Arrow). No particular reason--we weren't towing and it happened on flat ground. We even had an extra transmission oil cooler on it. Not much you can do about it--later versions used an Allison transmission. All I can do is wish you good luck!

New news to me. The 4L80E is a work horse and has an undeniably reliable track record.

[jplante4]

Don't think anyone mentioned this, but I had a failed fuel pump. It was in the tank and the tank needed to be drained and removed to change the pump. Luckily this happened in the storage yard attached to the RV shop.

There's also some strange connection between the fuel pump and the distributor in a throttle body injected 454. I went looking for past threads on this issue but couldn't find it (long ago I guess). Maybe someone remembers.

I has a 95 Cobra Monterey 28.

[udidwht]

DougE wrote:
If you get a cooling fan clutch, get one from GM - not an aftermarket - and store it in the as-installed orientation. If you start using oil (happens early on the 454) it's most likely valve guides. If you don't have an auxiliary trans cooler, get one - the largest plate-style cooler you can find.

RV does have a trans cooler. On my last trip Seattle - Huntington Beach, Ca and back I only consumed ~ 2/3qt oil. Not bad. Using Valvoline VR-1 Racing oil 10-30w with either Napa Gold filter or Mobil 1 Extended Performance filter.

The clutch seems to be working but I probably will swap it out with a GM before the trip. What is the most reliable method for checking if it is function as intended. With the engine cold and off I can spin it by hand but it does not freewheel easily and does not have a gritty feel indicating bad bearing/s.

[udidwht]

rvten wrote:
Get a brake fluid flush.
Check front air bags. (Inside coil springs) I used to keep 70 psi in mine.
What year Chevy chassis ?

I believe 94. I'll have to look at the paperwork again.

[udidwht]

zigzagrv wrote:
Sound like you have just about everything covered. The only other thing I would recommend is replacing the plug wires with good high-temp wires available from NAPA. The wires on the 454 run close to the manifolds and can become very hot.

Good luck, and happy travels!

Did just that in late 2014 with the premium Napa Gold wires. Also purchased some hi temp heat sleeves 2000F

[udidwht]

gbopp wrote:
Change the engine oil before the trip.

You said serviced radiator, did you flush the cooling system and replace the coolant?

New tires in 2014. Did you check the age of the tires when you put them on?
RV tires usually age out before they wear out. Make sure they were not a couple years old when you installed them in 2014.
Check the condition/age of your spare.

Change the FUEL filter on your generator or carry a spare if it was changed recently.

New windshield wipers and fill the washer tank.

Clean and lube the joints on your entry steps. Don't use WD-40 as a lube.

Inspect, or have it inspected, the roof. Make sure there are no potential problems. Your roof should be checked at least annually.
Carry a tube of Dicor, just in case.
Consider covering your roof seams with Eternabond. It's a great product.

Are you pulling a toad?
Consider installing a transmission temperature gauge. It's NOT necessary but, it is nice to know the temps, especially in the mountains.

Check all your batteries before the trip. make sure they are taking and holding a charge properly. Make sure the terminals are clean and tight.

The 12 Volt Side of Life will help you understand if you're not familiar with the system.

Get a roadside assistance policy. Good Sam and Coach-Net are the most popular.

Check your propane system for leaks, spray soapy water on the joints and look for bubbles.

Lube all your door locks and hinges.

Carry basic tools. Get a voltmeter and learn to use it if you don't know how.

Don't forget the duct tape, spare bulbs and fuses.

If I think of something else, I'll let you know. 🙂


Enjoy your trip, you're ready.

1996 Southwind, 37', Tag Axle, 454.

1. Coolant flushed and filled

2. Tires are new 2014 Michelin

3. Have a spare (also have receipt showing the fuel pump & filter changed for new a few years back)

4. Done

5. No entry step

6. Roof is in great shape. I check it annually. Also keep a tube as self leveling caulk as well as the tape.

7. No Toad

8. Batteries checked annually as well. Keep 1 gallon of distilled water for them. They are all dated late 2008. Les Schwab

9. Roadside assistance with both AAA and Good Sam.

10. Propane checked annually as well. Have a bottle of propane leak detector. No leaks.

11. Done

12. Have a good set of Craftsman tools that I carry.

13. Done


Much appreciated

[Peralko]

The weak link in your setup is the 4L80 transmission. Ours just gave up the ghost on the road to Colorado around 1995 (1991 Pace Arrow). No particular reason--we weren't towing and it happened on flat ground. We even had an extra transmission oil cooler on it. Not much you can do about it--later versions used an Allison transmission. All I can do is wish you good luck!

[BluegrassBill]

If the passenger side exhaust manifold is not already cracked between cylinders 6 & 8, before turning off engine let it idle for a few minutes to equalize temp between heads and manifolds. When climbing hills and engine temp gets to around 210 degrees listen for the roar of the fan clutch, If no roar its not working.
Do flush brake fluid, New 195 degree TStat and 15lb radiator cap wouldn't hurt. FYI Your engine is Throttle Body Injected (TBI). Only worry I can see would the fuel pump, Its Located in the fuel tank. On big hills do not exceed 40-45 mph in second gear, easy to over rev. You are going to have a great time.

[tropical36]

udidwht wrote:
I was curious to know from other (P-30 454 owners) of common issues that the Chevy 454 would have during a trip? I'm planning on driving from Seattle - Orlando, Fl (poss. Keys) and then back the southern route to southern Ca. then north to Seattle next year and am getting the RV ready ahead of time.

I purchased the RV in Sept. 2014 and it had 46,XXX (US) miles on it. It also had the roof completely redone. RV now has just over 51,XXX (US)miles. It runs great and will average 9-10 mpg (US).

1995 Fleetwood Southwind Storm 28ft
P-30 chassis
Chevy 454 w/ 4L80E Trans
OD reading - 50,XXX currently



What I've done thus far:

Full tune up (Sept 2014) - Plugs, wires, rotor, cap, air filter (also purchased some Hi-temp heat shield sleeves (2000F) for plugs)

Full trans service (Sept 2014)

Rear differential serviced (Sept 2014)

Cleaned throttle body & replaced fuel filter on chassis (Sept 2014).

Serviced radiator (Sept 2014)

Replaced all (3) belts and rebuilt drive axle (Jan 2016)

New Michelin tires (6) (Sept 2014)

Serviced Onan generator (oil filter, Synthetic oil, serviced spark arrestor (359hrs total) (Jan 2016_

Chassis lubed (Sept 2014)

Much appreciated

We've been across country 3 times and up and down the coasts as well, with our P30 chassis. Espeically the east coast and it
has served us well.
Doesn't sound like you have autopark with a 28ft coach and do have a tranny parking pawl and a hand operated parking brake, as well, so no onboard parts to carry there.
You might want to carry spare belts that you've replaced and know that they fit, as well, as knowing how to change one out. Better to learn and for being sure of what you need for tools in your driveway than trying to learn how in Death Valley.
Sounds like you have it pretty well covered and it is impossible for being ready for every possibility.

[Chopperbob]

Replace the brake lines. Mills catalog has them.
Anything rubber is suspect. Also I would replace the
muffler because of the restriction. I used a three inch straight thru from Magnaflow. It reduces the heat from engine and exh manifolds which are
known to crack.