Class A 'Best Bones'

[Xaviar]

Hey RV Friends!

My wife and I are planning to go spend a couple of years full timing, just to get a break from the world. With that said, we enjoy remodeling homes -- so we figured we'd give it a shot in an RV.

I'm trying to figure out which Class A's have the best 'bones' so I can go search for something that's a bit dated that we can basically gut and refinish so the lay out matches our needs and wants + style.

I'd love to hear from some owners on what you think has the least outside work or will have passed the test of time if we were to go cheap (I'm thinking under 25k -- but we're certainly flexible).

We spent a good bit of time shopping with an expectation of spending ~150k only to realize you really can't get anything that is particularly personalized for two people. Such a waste of space! Not to mention whomever designs the interior seems like they've been at it since the 60's.

[Bruce_Brown]

Xaviar wrote:

Bruce Brown wrote:
On the rubber roof, there is true EPDM rubber then there are the synethic types - big difference between them. I have a TT with a rubber roof and our MH has BriteTek, which some (wrongly) confuse with rubber.

EPDM isn't my favorite, we're on our 3rd MH with BriteTek, I'd buy another in a heartbeat.

Also keep in mind just because it says "fiberglass" doesn't mean it's quality material, some is about paper thin. Also keep in mind, like rubber, fiberglass will break down somewhat over time too. I also dabble in older tractors. I recently shipped a cab roof from one of my parts tractors to Louisiana. The roof I had was metal, it was replacing a fiberglass roof that had deteriorated past it's useful life.

Also "rubber" is a lot easier to replace. I did a new roof on our TT a few years ago, I did a buddies 5th Wheel last fall. I can't do a new full fiberglass roof in my garage, that's a factory job.

IMO I'd be more concerned in the roof condition than the material.

We've had a couple (all be it salesmen) tell us that the rubber roofs can get holes just as easily as being somewhere where a bird lands on it with some prey and is having lunch. Given the height and areas we'd go to in a motorhome -- that seems like a pretty high likelihood (though I suppose it could easily have been a perfect scare tactic as to 'why this is better').

Are you saying one of those two types of 'rubber' are better than the other?


I suppose the walls and roof (as well as mechanical parts) are my biggest concern over all as for what will last. Remodeling I can do all day long.

On the bold - YES! These membranes come in all sorts of thicknesses and backings. The EPDM roof on our TT is decent, but not nearly as heavy as our BriteTek roof. Our EPDM is all EPDM, our BriteTek is felt backed.

It's kind of a shame they get put into the same conversation, they really are different animals.

[Xaviar]

BigRabbitMan wrote:
Here is a link to FMC motor homes. They are all 29 ft long with a rear engine. Originally they were all Chrysler 440's, but a number have been converted to diesel. If you are going to tow, a diesel would be preferred but a number tow with the original 440.

FMC photo albums by BigRabbitMan

Bring up BigRabbitMan's photo albums (that's me) and look for the various Rally photo albums to see a number of them. The roof and wall down to the beltline is all one piece of 1/4 inch fiberglass. Nothing is laminated nor are there any wall or front cap seams. I like mine, but it may be too small for you. I have put 75,000+ miles on mine over 15 years. I did upgrade it to a diesel 25,000 miles ago. PM me if you want more info as to floor plans etc.

Appreciate it, and sadly yes I think it'll be too small. I think anything below 30 feet is going to be a bit rough for us. I'm still working on the idea of downsizing with my wife.

I could probably go much smaller, but, happy wife happy life!

[fulltimin]

Xaviar wrote:

fulltimin wrote:
You tube has a bunch of videos on converting a bus to a motor home. Many, but not nearly all, are school bus conversions.

Buses can be had from 20' or so up to 40'. It's not too difficult to find a 35 footer. Some are cab over, some conventional, depends on what you prefer.

One thing about the bus, you will be able to install heavier components, without the worry of going over your gross weight.

Do not fear plumbing, it is one of the easier, simpler jobs. Not much required in the way of tools, or special skills.


Link to you tube bus conversions

What makes the difference on the gross weight where it can handle it so much better? Just a better chasis/engine?

What's the typical life expectancy of the engine in the busses vs RVs? It occurs to me I keep comparing them to cars -- and yet I've seen a couple listed as "low mileage" at 100k miles.

Buses generally will have a higher gross weight than the typical entry to mid level rv. Many buses will have over 30,000lb gross, while a typical rv, depending on size will be anywhere from 15 - 25k. Getting into the higher end rv's is a different ball game - heavier chassis, etc.

The chassis of a bus will be heavier than a low to mid rv chassis. Almost all buses will be diesel, unless you go really old, talking 50 or so years.

Diesel engine with rv and bus, I don't think will be much different, when you are comparing similar years of production. Comparing something from the 80's to the 2015's, is a whole different ball game.

Most diesels should go 200 to 500k depending on how it's taken care of, especially if most are road miles.

[BigRabbitMan]

Here is a link to FMC motor homes. They are all 29 ft long with a rear engine. Originally they were all Chrysler 440's, but a number have been converted to diesel. If you are going to tow, a diesel would be preferred but a number tow with the original 440.

FMC photo albums by BigRabbitMan

Bring up BigRabbitMan's photo albums (that's me) and look for the various Rally photo albums to see a number of them. The roof and wall down to the beltline is all one piece of 1/4 inch fiberglass. Nothing is laminated nor are there any wall or front cap seams. I like mine, but it may be too small for you. I have put 75,000+ miles on mine over 15 years. I did upgrade it to a diesel 25,000 miles ago. PM me if you want more info as to floor plans etc.

[Xaviar]

fulltimin wrote:
You tube has a bunch of videos on converting a bus to a motor home. Many, but not nearly all, are school bus conversions.

Buses can be had from 20' or so up to 40'. It's not too difficult to find a 35 footer. Some are cab over, some conventional, depends on what you prefer.

One thing about the bus, you will be able to install heavier components, without the worry of going over your gross weight.

Do not fear plumbing, it is one of the easier, simpler jobs. Not much required in the way of tools, or special skills.


Link to you tube bus conversions

What makes the difference on the gross weight where it can handle it so much better? Just a better chasis/engine?

What's the typical life expectancy of the engine in the busses vs RVs? It occurs to me I keep comparing them to cars -- and yet I've seen a couple listed as "low mileage" at 100k miles.

[fulltimin]

You tube has a bunch of videos on converting a bus to a motor home. Many, but not nearly all, are school bus conversions.

Buses can be had from 20' or so up to 40'. It's not too difficult to find a 35 footer. Some are cab over, some conventional, depends on what you prefer.

One thing about the bus, you will be able to install heavier components, without the worry of going over your gross weight.

Do not fear plumbing, it is one of the easier, simpler jobs. Not much required in the way of tools, or special skills.


Link to you tube bus conversions

[Xaviar]

Gjac wrote:
Having spent time fixing delaminated side walls I would take Bruce's advice look for one with a hung wall, they can leak but not delaminate. $25k or less would probably be about 15 years or older so maintenance is important. If gas I would choose a straight axle front end over an IFS P-30 chassis a lot less maintenance. After 2006 both Chevy and Ford had good chassis and eng HP. Before that I would look for the WH chassis with the Alison transmission. Also look at things like FW capacity, storage, and CCC. These things are more important to me that the type of roof it has especially storage and the CCC if you plan to fulltime for a couple of years. If you plan to camp in NP's, NFS, SP's CG's without full hook ups them FW, black and grey tank capacities are important also. What sort of mods are you anticipating to make?

Optimization of the rooms is probably the biggest bit. How the furniture is laid out and space is used inside. My wife has a notion that she'd like me to make a shower bigger, or find something with a tub/jacuzzi -- but that seems rather rare. As much as I've looked at the plumbing on these too, I don't see me getting around to messing with that.

One of her biggest requests is to make the shower feel like a 'real shower' (tile it or something instead of the little plastic nonsense). Which I can certainly do if the thing can support it in a way without destroying the whole thing.

[Xaviar]

Bill.Satellite wrote:

gbopp wrote:

Bill.Satellite wrote:
Get an older Prevost and you will be good to go. Steel, stainless, aluminum and fiberglass caps.

Excellent idea.. But they are not cheap.

No, but after you are done with it in 2 years you will be able to get most of that money back when you sell it especially if you do a nice job on the updates and upgrades.

Hadn't occurred to me to look at the busses as I'm not sure how handy I would be in general as far as plumbing goes. It does look like these are pre-plumbed though eh?

I may have to take a look at a couple and see. They do look a bit long, I had been told going over 35 feet made it hard to get into some of the parks. Looks like these are all 40 footers-ish?

I'd also be curious how they do mileagewise. Looks like they're all going to start at 100k. I'm not much of a mechanic (and by not much -- I'm not any sort of mechanic).

[Mile_High]

Xaviar wrote:

Mile High wrote:
I don't understand your statement that MH are wasted space for 2 people - we found quite the opposite- the higher end you went the more tailored they are for 2 people. The entry levels are typically the bunk houses, sleep 10, etc.

I would never predicate a 2 year journey on having to gut and rebuild a motorhome unless you really just have nothing else to do. A) It would take me 10 years to finish that kind of project, B) when I was done I would have a MH that only I liked and I could never sell it because no one else liked it 🙂

Just because we intend to be on the road consistently for two years, doesn't mean I'd stop using it. We just have some other ideas/thoughts/plans after that -- where it would likely be more casual. Or who knows! Maybe we'll love it and do it forever.

That's fair 🙂 Just more than I might be willing to take on.

[jplante4]

gbopp wrote:

Bill.Satellite wrote:
Get an older Prevost and you will be good to go. Steel, stainless, aluminum and fiberglass caps.

Excellent idea..

The older Safaris are also aluminum and stainless and would probably be cheaper than a similar Prevost. Late 90s models are in the $15-$25k range.

[Bill_Satellite]

gbopp wrote:

Bill.Satellite wrote:
Get an older Prevost and you will be good to go. Steel, stainless, aluminum and fiberglass caps.

Excellent idea.. But they are not cheap.

No, but after you are done with it in 2 years you will be able to get most of that money back when you sell it especially if you do a nice job on the updates and upgrades.

[Gjac]

Having spent time fixing delaminated side walls I would take Bruce's advice look for one with a hung wall, they can leak but not delaminate. $25k or less would probably be about 15 years or older so maintenance is important. If gas I would choose a straight axle front end over an IFS P-30 chassis a lot less maintenance. After 2006 both Chevy and Ford had good chassis and eng HP. Before that I would look for the WH chassis with the Alison transmission. Also look at things like FW capacity, storage, and CCC. These things are more important to me that the type of roof it has especially storage and the CCC if you plan to fulltime for a couple of years. If you plan to camp in NP's, NFS, SP's CG's without full hook ups them FW, black and grey tank capacities are important also. What sort of mods are you anticipating to make?

[femailyetti]

not sure what you skill level is, there are a couple of rebuilds going on in this forum right now, mine is fairly basic with some wire and motor upgrades, and other is redoing the frame and wall from scratch. the is all so a couple of trailer rebuilds going on. loo at them and see how some of them are built

[gbopp]

Bill.Satellite wrote:
Get an older Prevost and you will be good to go. Steel, stainless, aluminum and fiberglass caps.

Excellent idea.. But they are not cheap.