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coachmen freedom 258 db 2004 25 ft

colettek
Explorer
Explorer
we are in the process of buying a coachmen 2004 class c freedom 258 db from an owner. for some reason i do not find this model online as being 25 ft but only 27 feet. My husband measured it by walking infront of it and he did it twice. the camper appear in half decent shape but there is 4 strikes against it. 1- the owner removed the 3 way fridge and put a house fridge in.( we need a 3 way fridge) 2-it need at least 2 or more new tires ( 2 are dry rotted. the awning canvas is badly ripped and need to be replaced. the generator does not start. I searched the nada and i cant find this model as being 25 ft. Did coachmen ever made 2004 freedom 258db that were 25 ft? or only 27 ft? Do you think it worth $12,000 or less ?
21 REPLIES 21

DrewE
Explorer II
Explorer II
ron.dittmer wrote:
DSSAMP wrote:
For you who wonder, yes our tires are original. They too look great with exception to the fronts which are wearing badly from too much up/down motion. The weight distribution is too much on the rear axle, too little on the front axle, hence enough up/down action to cause scalloping.

If your tires are 10 years old they should have been replaced 5 years ago
Yes, people say that. Given the lesser weight and lower tire pressure on our rig, along with being garage kept, I am comfortable stretching the years.


Most tire companies recommend inspections annually (which involves dismounting the tires to check both the inside and the outside) starting at around seven years and replacement regardless at ten years. Rubber ages partly based on environmental factors like ozone, UV light, heat, etc., regardless of how heavily loaded the vehicle is.

I would at least have a professional check your tires. A blowout or other serious tire problem is no fun at all and can be quite dangerous and/or damaging. I've had the tread catastrophically separate from one of the right rear tires on my motorhome, and was fortunate that damage was quite minor--some mutilation of the sheet metal wheel liner, and breaking the air line to the ride-rite air helper spring on that side. It wasn't a pleasant experience, nor was it fun to put on the spare on the side of a busy interstate, but could have been far worse. Please don't place yourself at unnecessary risk.

(I also think that replacing after five years automatically is a bit unnecessarily aggressive in most cases, especially since the tire makers don't suggest that.)

ron_dittmer
Explorer II
Explorer II
DSSAMP wrote:
For you who wonder, yes our tires are original. They too look great with exception to the fronts which are wearing badly from too much up/down motion. The weight distribution is too much on the rear axle, too little on the front axle, hence enough up/down action to cause scalloping.

If your tires are 10 years old they should have been replaced 5 years ago
Yes, people say that. Given the lesser weight and lower tire pressure on our rig, along with being garage kept, I am comfortable stretching the years.

DSSAMP
Explorer
Explorer
For you who wonder, yes our tires are original. They too look great with exception to the fronts which are wearing badly from too much up/down motion. The weight distribution is too much on the rear axle, too little on the front axle, hence enough up/down action to cause scalloping.

If your tires are 10 years old they should have been replaced 5 years ago

ron_dittmer
Explorer II
Explorer II
There are two VIN numbers. One for the chassis, the other for the RV conversion. Here in Illinois, the vehicle title reflects the year and VIN of the chassis. Emissions testing is also based off the chassis model year. But the insurance company goes by the RV conversion VIN.

Our first motor home bought brand new was a 1984 Mirage built on a 1983 Toyota chassis of which we owned for 24 years. I never liked the mismatch, so when we ordered our 2007 Phoenix Cruiser, I made sure it was built on a 2007 E350 chassis, not a 2006 chassis.

The bottom line is that it really doesn't matter. Especially when buying a 14 year old rig.

BTW: $8000 sounds about right to me. I do hope you are mechanically inclined because you will need those skills to keep your running costs under control.

I feel that RV owners who hire out everything required, should buy a quality new or almost new rig. Bought new and preserved well indoors, our 10 year old rig with 36,000 miles has required no mechanical intervention, not even a lug nut taken off. Only oil and filter changes. I have done a lot of house related "home improvements" not repairs, just a few monetary repairs like a dripping faucet, shower head cleaning, a broken latch, tiny things like that. The rig still looks and even smells brand new inside. My point here is that you can own a trouble-free motor home if the quality is right and more importantly, it is stored indoors, and heated in winter months.

For you who wonder, yes our tires are original. They too look great with exception to the fronts which are wearing badly from too much up/down motion. The weight distribution is too much on the rear axle, too little on the front axle, hence enough up/down action to cause scalloping.

whizbang
Explorer II
Explorer II
Further observations...

The unit in question was an entry level RV with a lot of quality/price compromises. It may not have worn real well, especially if, as klutchdust pointed out, the owners cheaped out on maintenance.

I would encourage you to proceed with extreme caution and due diligence.
Whizbang
2002 Winnebago Minnie
http://www.raincityhome.com/RAWH/index.htm

whizbang
Explorer II
Explorer II
$8000 doesn't buy much RV these days. An RV in that price range is on its last legs. A considerable amount of time and money is most likely necessary to bring it up to safe, comfortable, reliable working condition.

We bought ours for 24K and ended up putting 10K or so into it:

6 tires, shocks, rear leaf packs, complete lube, oil, filter and fluid change, front ball joints, new dinette cushions, generator fuel filter/pump.

Some of our upgrades are better than new. You don't have to go nuts like we did, but you should figure on $5000-8000 of repairs.

Did anybody mention rubber roofs...??? Yours most likely shot... another $5K or $10K.

Look carefully and ponder a bunch before you buy. Good luck.
Whizbang
2002 Winnebago Minnie
http://www.raincityhome.com/RAWH/index.htm

klutchdust
Explorer II
Explorer II
colettek wrote:
Well we looked inside the door and it says 2003 but the title says 2004. How does this work? How does NADA go by ? the year of the manufactured of the chevy chassis? or the year of the finished of the coach? the selling price we have aggreed is now $8,000 Do you think its a good deal?


I would locate a local mobile RV service and pay them to inspect it. SO many things can be wrong with the unit. My guess is it sat and the generator fuel system is gummed up. Any leaks? With many unit's it's not if it leaked water but when. If the original fridge was replaced with a less costly version, for me it indicates the owners were cheap and went cheap on everything else including maintenance. I personally only buy used vehicles that have documented maintenance records. My records are so anal i even write down when I replaced wiper blades, but that's me.

IAMICHABOD
Explorer II
Explorer II
colettek wrote:
Well we looked inside the door and it says 2003 but the title says 2004. How does this work? How does NADA go by ? the year of the manufactured of the chevy chassis? or the year of the finished of the coach? the selling price we have aggreed is now $8,000 Do you think its a good deal?


The year model is determined when it is a Finished Vehicle.
This will explain it all

NADA uses the year model of the finished Coach.

As an example my 2006 Tioga is on a 2005 Chassis and it is registered and insured as a 2006,NADA shows it as a 2006,my model Tioga 26Q was not made on a Chevy Chassis in 2005.
2006 TIOGA 26Q CHEVY 6.0 WORKHORSE VORTEC
Former El Monte RV Rental
Retired Teamster Local 692
Buying A Rental Class C

txnese
Explorer
Explorer
Need a little more info like: What's the mileage? How many hours on the generator? Chevy or Ford and engine size?

Farmboy666
Explorer
Explorer
My chassis is a 2007 but rv is a 2008: My title says 2008 so that’s whatI go by. It’s hard for anybody that hasn’t looked at it to say whether it’s a good deal. You’ve seen it and know what’s wrong with it. You don’t get much for 8,000 these days. I paid 14,000 with 21,000 miles. I needed an awning but have done a lot that I just wanted upgraded or different. At some point you just have to pull the trigger or walk away.

colettek
Explorer
Explorer
Well we looked inside the door and it says 2003 but the title says 2004. How does this work? How does NADA go by ? the year of the manufactured of the chevy chassis? or the year of the finished of the coach? the selling price we have aggreed is now $8,000 Do you think its a good deal?

colettek
Explorer
Explorer
tobydad wrote:
$12,000 is quite high because of all the money you would need to get it right. 2 rotted tires really means that 6 need to be replaced, generator repair could be at least $300 to 500, refrigerator over $1000, and if it has been off the road for a long time, brakes probably need work. The awning fabric replacement could be around $200. Should be test driven, but with at least 2 bad tires, I would be careful taking it on the highway. $12,000 would be a good price if all you needed was 6 new tires.

FunTwoDrv
Explorer
Explorer
OP, I've learned that Coachmen model numbers don't necessarily reflect overall length. For example, our 28QB is actually 32' bumper to bumper on a Chevy chassis.
As for price, its anybodies guess!

Gary

Farmboy666
Explorer
Explorer
Cobra21 wrote:
My friend had his 16' awning fabric replaced at an RV dealer for $800 this year. I would determine the fair market value and then subtract; $1,000 for tires, $1,000 for the frig, and $1,000 for the awning fabric.
Brian

I bought a new awning last summer for $179 and first attempt to install to me 2 hours by myself. $1000 is ****.