Cost to install apparatus for Flat-towing

[obiwancanoli]

While I've had and used a Tow Dolly for a couple years, I've always found it inconvenient, requiring me to have storage when not in use. As a result, been considering replacing this with a towing apparatus for my Class A, and called Camping World to research, and get an estimate...

WHOA!

At $5,400+, it was quite a bit more than I anticipated... but is it accurate? Looking for input, experience, and anything else that will help me decide if this is an option I should consider...

At this price, I think I'd continue with the dolly...

Your thoughts?

Thanks, MIchael

[Tax_Man]

I use the Demco (SMI) Stay and Play brake system. It stays in place. Flip and on/off switch when hooking up. Works great.

[crawford]

tow bars have safety cables or chains ready brake or others have lights telling if hooked up pretty simple. If you run bald tires nothing helps stupid. Use your equipment required all will be well but still can't fix stupid.

[B_O__Plenty]

Big Katuna wrote:
So if I buy new, use it ten years, it gets worn out and fails, you’ll be ok?

Have you heard of anybody that’s has been sued for equipment failure?

Bald tires? Overweight?

Insurance pays for all that. Civil suits happen but they are rare.

100% correct. The sky is not falling. Pretty easy to look at a tow bar and mount to see if something is wrong with it.

B.O.

[johnwalkerpa1]

obiwancanoli wrote:
I concluded the Readybrake not as effective simply because using the brakes on the toad would seem to me to be more effective. I have no other evidence to support my conclusion, but am happy to accede to more knowledgeable sources...

way2roll wrote:

obiwancanoli wrote:
OK, here's something else I'm researching... braking systems.




Also happened across a Readybrute with built-in braking mechanism, and concluded it's probably not as effective as what's needed, but again, am a rookie at this... which explains why I'm posting this...

Why would you conclude the ready brute elite not as effective? This is likely the most simple, effective and risk risk free set up you can have. It's a surge brake built into the bar itself and uses your own car's braking system. It's all mechanical so no wiring to fail, no air or hydraulics to fail, nothing to install/uninstall every time you hook up.

The readybrute still uses the toad's brakes. It just activates them differently. IMHO it's a better way. It's a little extra setup to run the cable thru the firewall but once you do that once, it's much simpler to use than any other braking system I've ever seen.

[obiwancanoli]

I concluded the Readybrake not as effective simply because using the brakes on the toad would seem to me to be more effective. I have no other evidence to support my conclusion, but am happy to accede to more knowledgeable sources...

way2roll wrote:

obiwancanoli wrote:
OK, here's something else I'm researching... braking systems.




Also happened across a Readybrute with built-in braking mechanism, and concluded it's probably not as effective as what's needed, but again, am a rookie at this... which explains why I'm posting this...

Why would you conclude the ready brute elite not as effective? This is likely the most simple, effective and risk risk free set up you can have. It's a surge brake built into the bar itself and uses your own car's braking system. It's all mechanical so no wiring to fail, no air or hydraulics to fail, nothing to install/uninstall every time you hook up.

[AikenRacer]

$3,000 if you buy new including a Brake Buddy

[way2roll]

obiwancanoli wrote:
OK, here's something else I'm researching... braking systems.




Also happened across a Readybrute with built-in braking mechanism, and concluded it's probably not as effective as what's needed, but again, am a rookie at this... which explains why I'm posting this...

Why would you conclude the ready brute elite not as effective? This is likely the most simple, effective and risk risk free set up you can have. It's a surge brake built into the bar itself and uses your own car's braking system. It's all mechanical so no wiring to fail, no air or hydraulics to fail, nothing to install/uninstall every time you hook up.

[Bill_Satellite]

The brake systems powered by the RV's air brakes are the best and most reliable. M&G is the best but they don't have equipment to fit all tow vehicles. Air Force 1 would be my 2nd choice. I have been towing with an M&G for 20 years without issue.

[dodge_guy]

My buddy has a wireless blue OX brake system that goes on he drivers front floor. He hasn't had any issues with it in over a year of using it. That will probably be the system I go with next!

[FloridaRosebud]

obiwancanoli wrote:


Since my current Ford Edge (3.5, Titanium) HAS a tow package - complete with wiring harness for anything I tow with it - can I tie into this wiring, assuming I have a wiring kit that connects the RV lights/signals to those of the toad? Or is this better simply running the wiring the entire length of the toad, from its taillights to the RV connection?

My guess is no, the system probably won't work backwards unless you did some serious rewiring. It triggers off of pressing the brake pedal of the Edge, which is not in use. I'll be curious to see what others say....

Al

[obiwancanoli]

OK, here's something else I'm researching... braking systems.

Spoke with a dealer about installation, etc., and he's been very helpful... will probably have him install everything... this dealer seemed to not like the idea of using the coach braking system tied into the toad, too many risks that were anything to go wrong, it could adversely affect the pair.

So we discussed other types of braking systems, at which point he suggested a wireless braking system. I haven't seen any posts on this subject, so I'm curious if this might be worth looking into.

Other systems require a box-like unit placed on the driver side floor, in front of the brake, but it seems to require power to run, and that won't do when the battery's supposed to be disconnected.

Also happened across a Readybrute with built-in braking mechanism, and concluded it's probably not as effective as what's needed, but again, am a rookie at this... which explains why I'm posting this...

So, thanks again, for your contributions... getting closer to pulling the trigger...

What up?

Since my current Ford Edge (3.5, Titanium) HAS a tow package - complete with wiring harness for anything I tow with it - can I tie into this wiring, assuming I have a wiring kit that connects the RV lights/signals to those of the toad? Or is this better simply running the wiring the entire length of the toad, from its taillights to the RV connection?

[johnwalkerpa1]

One thing to note.....installing the base plate yourself will vary depending on the vehicle. After installing one on a 2017 Ford Explorer, I think I'd pay someone to do it next time....it's not rocket science or even that physically difficult....just a real pain in the $&%*#. Have to remove 1/2 of the front end, shim the washer fluid reservoir and then reshape the inside of the grill.....

[Roger_in_VERMON]

Our Jeep dealer charged me $300.00 to install the base plate on the Jeep.
I purchased a new Roadmaster Sterling from a person who never used it because they traded their motorhome for a 5th wheel for $200.00. Saw it on Craigslist.
I think I paid about $250 for the base plate.

[Roger_in_VERMON]

Our Jeep dealer charged me $300.00 to install the base plate on the Jeep.
I purchased a new Roadmaster Sterling from a person who never used it because they traded their motorhome for a 5th wheel for $200.00. Saw it on Craigslist.
I think I paid about $250 for the base plate.