DC side issue Coach Batts not charging

[MarineandAirfor]

When I purchased the coach was told batts were good. I had AC power plugged in but no DC. Control panel didn't give lights, no genset crank and so on. I figured I'd do the most obvious things first. Swapped out the batts with newer fully charged ones from my boat. Also in doing that I wire brushed every possible connection to shiny copper. Figuring this would address 2 possible issued (dead batts or corroded connections) well I still had no DC. I thought it may have been a bad master solenoid relay that was in the batt bay under the steps. However after cleaning it up like new I broke off a terminal putting it all back together. This is the item
Before I took it off and cleaned it. So after not being helped my any Napa or any other place I went to an RV place 45 min away. They gave me what they called a continuos duty solenoid. Which looked like a standard starter solenoid and looked nothing like what I wanted. But I assumed he knew more than me and would be a generic replacement. After it was installed I still had NO DC and was puzzled as I knew I now had full batts, clean terminals wires and connections and a NEW solenoid. After doing some research found some just bypass the darn thing so I did and what do u know I HAD ALL MY DC WORKING! I was a happy camper feeling accomplished. I worked for a week inside the coach late nights not plugged into shore power. I eventually plugged in to make sure I was charging or topping off the batts.
Well last night I went out there and had no DC so I'm guessing the bypass was also bypassing charging??? I don't know but I'm bringing that thing back and getting a direct replacement relay/solenoid. The one I need has some small wires with blade fuses

[Raymon]

ksg5000 wrote:

MarineandAirforcevet wrote:
Kevin I know what u are referring to now and I have a few of them under the dash. I guess I will just replace them and get a new batt disco relay and see what happens

The auto reset circuit breakers are easy to test - just do a continuity test between the two lugs. There inexpensive and carry a spare might be a good idea.

If your getting power by disconnecting/bi-passing the battery disconnect solenoid that's likely the issue ... might be the fuses on top of the solenoid - might be a bad rocker switch connecting to the solenoid. Does the solenoid make a "click" when your press the rocker switch - if you press in one direction it cuts off power - pressing it in the other direction should reconnect the batteries.

Reference your first sentence. I have had auto-reset circuit breakers test good for continuity, but as soon as power was applied, they failed (opened). One particular incident on our MH drove me crazy until I put a jumper across the breaker before I applied power. Due to the faulty breaker, none of my batteries were being charged. OP may be having a similar problem.

Ray

[Raymon]

enblethen wrote:
The photo is of an electrically operated mechanically held relay like similar to this one.
Battery disconnect
The condition of the relay in photo may just need cleaned up. Photo maybe sufficient to remove it completely clean it up and re-install. I would also make a drawing so as to get wiring back correctly.
Some of the relays have fuses on the upper side where the control wires arrive from remote location.

The OP stated "..after cleaning it up like new, I broke off a terminal putting it all back together." I think that is why he purchased a new 'generic' relay. Sometimes I have found that 'generic' parts are not always easily adaptable to replace an original part. I try very hard to stay away from 'generic' parts.

Ray

[dougrainer]

wa8yxm wrote:
There are exceptions but basically here are the switch position explanations and options.

Main = Coach chassis battery, this is the one that cranks up the main engine
AUX = House battery, this is the one that lights and heats your life, cools your food and controls all the stuff that makes you comfortable. It likely also runs the slides in and out.

They must be in the ON or USE position for the house converter to charge them.

NOW: the house converter... IF the original batteries which you were told were good were stone dead.. they may have shorted and popped some fuses on the converter..

OR: the converter may have died for other reasons.. here is a quick check.

Plug in, with the AUX switch off for at least a minute,, Do the house lights still work? NO = Bad converter UNLESS you have a big inverter in which case it depends on how it's wired. (inverters may be wired in before the AUX switch)

But if you do not have such an inverter AUX-OFF they will not charge.

Finally: SOME motor homes... The house will charge the chassis provided it is connected.. Some.. it will not,, Some does not matter if connected or not. As you can see,, OPTIONS... alas, you need someone to look over your coach (Fellow RVer can do it) to figure out this.

1. MOST motorhomes will still operate the 12 volt coach systems on Converter or Inverter/Charger IF the Battery disconnect is off. Some do require the Battery disconnect to be ON before Converter power is supplied, but very few, so your test for the 1 minute is NOT a valid test with the Aux off.
2. NO correct "large" Inverter/Charger will ever be connected thru the battery disconnect. MOST battery disconnects have a 100 amp DC limit. Large (over 1500 watt) Inverter/Chargers will go over 200 amps in Invert mode. You ALWAYS connect the battery cables direct to the large Inverter/chargers thru a 250 to 300 amp DC fuse. Doug

[wa8yxm]

There are exceptions but basically here are the switch position explanations and options.

Main = Coach chassis battery, this is the one that cranks up the main engine
AUX = House battery, this is the one that lights and heats your life, cools your food and controls all the stuff that makes you comfortable. It likely also runs the slides in and out.

They must be in the ON or USE position for the house converter to charge them.

NOW: the house converter... IF the original batteries which you were told were good were stone dead.. they may have shorted and popped some fuses on the converter..

OR: the converter may have died for other reasons.. here is a quick check.

Plug in, with the AUX switch off for at least a minute,, Do the house lights still work? NO = Bad converter UNLESS you have a big inverter in which case it depends on how it's wired. (inverters may be wired in before the AUX switch)

But if you do not have such an inverter AUX-OFF they will not charge.

Finally: SOME motor homes... The house will charge the chassis provided it is connected.. Some.. it will not,, Some does not matter if connected or not. As you can see,, OPTIONS... alas, you need someone to look over your coach (Fellow RVer can do it) to figure out this.

[dougrainer]

MarineandAirforcevet wrote:
It would also help if I understood fully the battery mode switches also mom/duel I get the batt condition button with gauge. That's obvious but if I don't have one of the switches like Aux in the right position would that keep them from charging? I've got all the books and paperwork for all the components on this rig with the exception of anything from Winnebago instructing me on how anything works like what switches are for what. It's a guessing game

On your year Winne. The Dual/MOM functions like this
On DUAL when you push it, it stays locked in. This closes ANOTHER charge solenoid (that silver one like you purchased), that engages both battery banks to charge while driving down the road. If you leave the Dual switch engaged and you turn the Ignition key OFF, then that solenoid opens. Most leave this switch on all the time.
The DUAL side uses Chassis battery power to close the solenoid when the Ign key is ON.
On MOM (momentary,called emergency start on other RV's), which is spring loaded and will pop back when you release it, pushing this side and holding it, will close that silver solenoid to use the Coach Batteries to jump start the chassis engine if the chassis batteries are low or dead. The MOM side uses the coach batteries to engage the charge solenoid.
As you found out, you have a broken Intellitec Disconnect relay and it operates completely different from a solenoid that uses 12 volt to close the solenoid. The main feature of the Intellitec is, it is called a "latching relay", which means it does NOT consume any 12 volt power once engaged or disconnected. Doug

[ksg5000]

MarineandAirforcevet wrote:
Kevin I know what u are referring to now and I have a few of them under the dash. I guess I will just replace them and get a new batt disco relay and see what happens

The auto reset circuit breakers are easy to test - just do a continuity test between the two lugs. There inexpensive and carry a spare might be a good idea.

If your getting power by disconnecting/bi-passing the battery disconnect solenoid that's likely the issue ... might be the fuses on top of the solenoid - might be a bad rocker switch connecting to the solenoid. Does the solenoid make a "click" when your press the rocker switch - if you press in one direction it cuts off power - pressing it in the other direction should reconnect the batteries.

[MarineandAirfor]

I will have to locate batt control center. I was just aware of the batteries themselves and the converter/ fuse/ breaker panel. Makes sence to me the unknown unexamined unit could be faulty such as a fuse. Cool
Thanks

[enblethen]

It will give you some insight of whether wiring is good between battery and battery control center.
Battery control center is quite often located under the hood driver's side. There can be fuses there that protects the wiring coming from the converter which should charge your battery.
Locate your converter. Check to see if the converter has 120 volts AC to it. Then check output for at least 12 volts but closer to 13 volts output. This should be same voltage as arriving at the battery control center.

[MarineandAirfor]

I had bypassed the relay all together to have functioning DC power until the batts died. If I do jump the relay and connect as u say Bud what then will happen or what should I be looking to achieve ?

[MarineandAirfor]

Kevin I could find no auto reset circuit in and around the batt compartment

[MarineandAirfor]

Bud it's a 89/90 winnebago superchief 34QR?

[enblethen]

As a temporary test you can jumper around the battery disconnect. You can do this by attaching all the cables together on the remaining good post.
A large cable should go from the battery disconnect to a battery control canter. The battery control center should have large 12 volt circuit breakers. Large as in amperage, something around 50 amps or so. Some have a reset button.
Make and model of your rig would help.

[MarineandAirfor]

Kevin I know what u are referring to now and I have a few of them under the dash. I guess I will just replace them and get a new batt disco relay and see what happens

[MarineandAirfor]

There was a 40 amp blade use under the dash that looked suspect. I don't know about breaker as they all look good unless a remote one for that is elsewhere and not with the rest by the converter. But yeah it looks like the intellitech ones I've seen online