Electric Entry Step motor...Problem discovered!...with pics

[Baja_Man]

I have a Coach Step # 725-0051. It stopped working. The motor runs but step will not stay put. It will slide in and out freely after motor stops.

I removed the motor and opened up the insides. I have attached pics with text to explain what I believe to be the problem. To summarize...I believe the cog into which the gear sits into and rotates, is worn out. Being worn out it allows the gear to spin freely when it should remain snug in the hex shaped cog.

[Wayne67vert]

Baja Man, thanks for your post.

This is the exact problem I was having. I bought a window motor from Auto Zone for less than $50. Lifetime warranty.

Problem fixed! 🙂

[Baja_Man]

update......

Purchased ACi #83694 from Amazon for $52 and it works perfect!

NOTE: You have to remove the small phillips head screw that holds the gear cover on or else it will not sit flush on the gear bracket during install and bolts will not align...ask me how I know!

[Baja_Man]

Well it turns out the the kit I need is not available. They are slightly different. Part of the cog has a crack and so inserting spacers/shims will only make it worse.

I have decided to purchase the ACi #83694. I'll post a follow up on how the install goes.

[j-d]

'Fraid of that. It seems the OEM motor design changed, to one that looks like your pix, and the kits went out of date with the old style. Must've been the gear case and contents changed a little when the motors changed from round to what I called "square." Maybe the better term is "flattened."

You're still way ahead of the game, finding the problem, sourcing the part, and installing it yourself.

Just be sure the power is disconnected while you work on this thing. It develops some pretty good force and moves faster than you'd think.

[Baja_Man]

Well it turns out the the kit I need is not available. They are slightly different. Part of the cog has a crack and so inserting spacers/shims will only make it worse.

However, I found a Dorman 742-277 100% NEW motor that looks like it may work. I can always return it if it doesn't fit and it includes a lifetime warranty.

[j-d]

This is Dorman Products Window Lift Parts Lookup. It shows only 74409 and 747-409 as Gear/Plug kits and 74410 as Plug Kit. The "years" they show include when your motor was made.

EDIT: This link displays other window parts. Use the menu on the left edge to get to Gear Kits and Plug Kits.

I've never fixed one with a "kit." First one I did, I stacked two 1/4" hex nuts (7/16" wrench size) in each "pocket" formed in the gear area when the damaged pieces came out. I kinda sorta wonder if your motor started out with more in there and somebody cleaned it out misunderstanding what the problem was.

Be sure the steps move freely now that you have the motor off. I suppose it's possible for the steps themselves to bind where they link together to extend and fold. But I found most of our binding was in the motor area. I remember a spot that was a little lever with a ball-and-socket-looking joint. IT was the cause of our step creaking and groaning, and not fully retracting.

Not sure aluminum can material will handle the strain. Your pix look different than my memory of the gears I've fixed. Mine were from the days of the earlier round motors and I haven't had any of what I call the "Square" ones apart. If all you need is a metal strip, what about part of a stainless steel hose clamp...

[lanerd]

Isn't there a recall on "coach-step" electric steps? Contact the company and see if yours falls into the recall category.

Ron

[klutchdust]

I did research and found that by looking on the NAPA internet site they had photos of the lift motors. I found that a 1986-1995 Ford Taurus left front window lift motor matched my motor. NAPA part # BK655-1395 $63.99 I ordered my motor from Auto-Zone Manufactured by Dorman part# 742-206. This has a lifetime Warranty and was $49.99.

[Baja_Man]

Before I purchase a repair kit or new motor.....

I think I'll try and cut some small alum pieces (from an alum soda can) and set them along sides of interior cog. Then I'll set gear into the cog and add/remove pieces until a snug fit can be had.

[Baja_Man]

j-d...you got me thinking. How about this kit which comes with the gear and gear housing/cog which is bad in mine? Not sure it would fit, but it does look the same. Would have to take a chance and perhaps eat the $13.00 if it doesn't fit.

repair kit

[j-d]

They are Ford power window motors. I want to say some year and the proper side of some Taurus.
A four-door Ford will have at least TWO motor part numbers because they are Left and Right. Might have Four: Front Left, Rear Left, Front Right, Rear right.
There are "motor saver kits" for older Ford motors, the ones with a round motor not your squared off one.
Before you buy a motor, check the "Help" rack at the chain auto stores, or ask a counter person at NAPA.
Also, you can make a filler, say a strip of aluminum, to wrap around the hub to take the space out of it. No safety issue there, since the electric step stops when current draw tells the controller the step has hit something. That "something" is usually full extension or full retraction, but if you're next to a curb and it extends, it'll stop on current limitation. The Fords aren't that way. They need a slip clutch (the part that failed on your step) to prevent overloading the motor if somebody holds the switch against top or bottom. Or somebody gets caught in the window. RV does not. Uses the same Ford motor, just with a different limit arrangement. On the round motors, we'd drop balls from old wheel bearings into the pockets that were left when the clutch fell apart.

This Amazon Page will give you an idea. Notice there are two products mentioned. One is the Gear WITH Clutch Rollers and the other is Rollers Only. You might find you could improvise something using the rollers as material to repair the setup you have. Given of course your motor isn't one of the "Select Models."