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F53 Full Fluids Service Price Check

tragusa3
Explorer
Explorer
I'm fortunate that my local Ford dealer services large Class A's. They say they have at least 2-3 every single day.

We bought our coach used this past fall. Looking to change out all fluids for peace of mind. It is 7 years old with 9k miles.

I do a good bit of basic maintenance at home, so I'd like to do it myself if I can. However, some of these items I've never done before.

I want to know two things. First, does the price seem in line and two, do you think I can tackle it myself. My abilities in the past have been, oil change, filter change, brake pad change.

Local dealer list:

Engine oil: $150 (I've already done myself)
Transmission flush (100% pressurized) $239
Brake fluid: $99
Coolant flush: $139 (think I can do)
Differential gear oil: $190
Power Steering fluid: $99
Fuel injection and induction cleaning: $139

Everything looks in line to me. What do you think? Is there anything I should add that is overlooked?

Thanks.
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25 REPLIES 25

theoldwizard1
Explorer II
Explorer II
Fuzzy Knight wrote:
From a Ford service rep - The new AODs really put the fluid through the ringer. If it is changed every 20 thou or so the tranny will last forever.

I would be 99% certain that person does not work for Ford Motor Company. Likely they work for the dealership where they sell replacement parts, lubricants and the service to install them !

As the old saying goes, "We SELL oil here !"

Chum_lee
Explorer
Explorer
tragusa3 wrote:


Anyone have comments on my pictures? I assume we all agree it looks like new fluid?


Here's an old trick from Noria. (Professional oil analysis and educational training) Instead of using a paper towel, put a drop of oil (off the dipstick) on the back of a white business card. The whiter the card stock the better. Make sure the paper is NOT glossy finish but flat (color) and clean as possible. Let the oil drop diffuse into the paper until it is fully absorbed. This may take 3 to 4 hours. Then look at the oil spot. Look for an even gradation in color from the center to the outer edge of oil penetration. If you see any sharp lines or splotches, your fluid is contaminated with particulate. Not a guarantee, but, a cheap way to do fluid chromatography when you don't know the fluid history and want a relatively quick way to make an educated guess about it's suitability for continued use.

Chum lee

theoldwizard1
Explorer II
Explorer II
Fuzzy Knight wrote:
From a Ford service rep - The new AODs really put the fluid through the ringer. If it is changed every 20 thou or so the tranny will last forever. If not - 30/40 K and the tranny is gone.


I actually worked in transmission engineering for a few years about 30 years ago. Even then transmission fluid was good for 100K+, assuming it was not overheated and there were no other internal transmission issues. Pretty much ALL modern transmission fluid is either a blend or 100% pure synthetic and much more tolerant of high operating temperatures.

Fuzzy Knight wrote:
With todays fuel cleaning is a must because the fuel degrades so fast.

All gasoline has some cleaning additives, even the cheapest generic brand (Costco gas is actually pretty good). The best thing you can do is to consume the gas in the tank in a "reasonable" amount of time. ALL GAS, even with additives, will leave "varnish" if left for long (12 months ?) periods of time. Having said that, it is amazing how many cars start an run fine with fuel that has been left in the tank for 5+ years !

theoldwizard1
Explorer II
Explorer II
I am a retired automotive engineer. I worked for on of the Detroit 3 for over30 years

tragusa3 wrote:
Does transmission fluid absorb moisture like brake fluid?

No ! Follow the owner's manual, even if you follow the "severe duty" schedule.

tragusa3 wrote:
Same with Fuel injection cleaning? The dealer said that the induction cleaning will remove water that has built up and sat in the exhaust? I do get a little water from the exhaust, but it stops after I'm up to temperature.

Pure BS. Water vapor is a normal by-product of combustion and a small amount dripping out the exhaust is normal.

tragusa3 wrote:
I check transmission and power steering this morning. Here are pics.

Both look fine.

I have bee driving cars for over 50 years, most of them older vehicles (current 2nd car is 21 years old). I have NEVER changed power steering fluid (additional added during repairs), brake fluid (additional added during repairs), differential fluid. The one time I did change the transmission fluid, it had no affect.

Fuzzy_Knight
Explorer
Explorer
tragusa3 wrote:
Fuzzy Knight, can you support why you feel the transmission is important at such low miles but others aren't? Does transmission fluid absorb moisture like brake fluid?

Same with Fuel injection cleaning? The dealer said that the induction cleaning will remove water that has built up and sat in the exhaust? I do get a little water from the exhaust, but it stops after I'm up to temperature.

I check transmission and power steering this morning. Here are pics. The transmission is the marks on the left, PS on the right. Both were cleaner in person than they look in the pictures. If I was told they were just changed, I'd believe it. What do you think?




From a Ford service rep - The new AODs really put the fluid through the ringer. If it is changed every 20 thou or so the tranny will last forever. If not - 30/40 K and the tranny is gone. My Pace Arrow had a new tranny installed at 23K just before I got it.
As far as fuel injector cleaning - With todays fuel cleaning is a must because the fuel degrades so fast. You have no idea what the previous owner did to keep it clean sooo an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.

tragusa3
Explorer
Explorer
Thanks Chum lee! I understand and agree with everything you've said.

Anyone have comments on my pictures? I assume we all agree it looks like new fluid?
New to us 2011 Tiffin Allegro Open Road 34TGA
Join us on the road at Rolling Ragu on YouTube!

Chum_lee
Explorer
Explorer
tragusa3 wrote: "Same with Fuel injection cleaning? The dealer said that the induction cleaning will remove water that has built up and sat in the exhaust? I do get a little water from the exhaust, but it stops after I'm up to temperature."

Unless you have specific issues which you can directly attribute to the fuel injection system, (contaminated fuel, blocked injectors/pcv, dirty MAF, etc.) the fuel injection system does not need regular cleaning other than changing the fuel filter. . . . . . period. Water in the exhaust is normal and it is a byproduct of the combustion process. Exhaust heat will remove any moisture on its own without an unnecessary cash injection. IMO, keep your money and ignore this dealer "expert."

Chum lee

tragusa3
Explorer
Explorer
Fuzzy Knight, can you support why you feel the transmission is important at such low miles but others aren't? Does transmission fluid absorb moisture like brake fluid?

Same with Fuel injection cleaning? The dealer said that the induction cleaning will remove water that has built up and sat in the exhaust? I do get a little water from the exhaust, but it stops after I'm up to temperature.

I check transmission and power steering this morning. Here are pics. The transmission is the marks on the left, PS on the right. Both were cleaner in person than they look in the pictures. If I was told they were just changed, I'd believe it. What do you think?



New to us 2011 Tiffin Allegro Open Road 34TGA
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Fuzzy_Knight
Explorer
Explorer
Engine oil: $150 (I've already done myself)
Transmission flush (100% pressurized) $239 This is important, make sure they change the filter!!!
Brake fluid: $99 At 9k miles this does not need to be done.
Coolant flush: $139 (think I can do) At 9K miles this does not need to be done
Differential gear oil: $190 At 9K miles this does not need to be done.
Power Steering fluid: $99 At 9K miles this does not need to be done.
Fuel injection and induction cleaning: $139 This is important.
One of the best things about having the Ford dealership do it is that at any time you need warranty work done, assuming you purchased an extended warranty, is you have a record of items that were done.

dodge_guy
Explorer II
Explorer II
The trans should have a drain plug. At 7k miles I would just drain and fill it. No need for a filter change.
Brake fluid flush is reasonable, as long as they are going to do the complete system and not just drain and fill the reservoir.
Coolant I would drain and fill.
Rear diff is probably OK. I would leave it.
Same with PS
No need for a fuel system service at such low miles!
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Tal_IL
Explorer
Explorer
I have my regular service done by my Ford dealer. Change engine oil and filter, chassis lube, check all fluids for condition and top off as needed. They do about a 20 item check list and it costs me $80.

As long as there is no indication of burned fluid, metal shavings, water contamination, etc. I don't see a need for extensive flushing and replacing of fluids.
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tragusa3
Explorer
Explorer
What great feedback! I didn't expect step by step instructions! I think I just needed some encouragement to try these things myself.

I agree with those that are saying to wait for schedule unless there is an obvious problem or color, and there isn't.

So let's look at the list again.

Engine oil: Like I said, I've already done that. I've NEVER had anyone change oil in my vehicles in 40 years.
Transmission flush : I'm going to look at fluid and if it is good color, do nothing. At most, I will drain what I can and not pay for the whole thing.
Brake fluid: Do believe I can do this myself.
Coolant flush: I know I can do this one.
Differential gear oil: I'm going to pull the plug, check the level and color and likely do nothing.
Power Steering fluid: I believe I can do this.
Fuel injection and induction cleaning: I didn't realize that using Sea Foam (or the like) was commonly acceptable. Wondered if it was a bit of "snake oil". But I'm open for it. You are correct, how dirty can they be with 233 hours on the engine.

It runs and shifts like a top. Never a hiccup. We are doing an 8k mile trip this summer, so I wanted to go overboard.

Any of the rubber items at 7 years? belt? hoses? I've poked around a bit and all looks nice. Only thing I've seen that aren't new looking are the bushings on steering arms, stabilizers and leaf springs. They aren't missing peaces, but more cracked and split than I expected to see. I read somewhere that this is normal and don't worry until you have a noticeable problem?
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Dale_Traveling
Explorer II
Explorer II
Engine oil change is no different than your daily driver except for one small problem. The drain plug is directly over the axle. Makes a mess unless you can divert the flow. I cut the bottom out of a gallon jug and use it to direct the oil to my drain pan. Mobile 1 full synthetic is a favorite of may owners. Save $110 and do it your self.

The transmission is the only somewhat challenging project on the list. Ford made it a little harder by installing a 160 deg thermostat controlling oil flow to the external cooler. But there is away for a shade tree mechanic to get-er-done. Watch this YouTube Video and decide if you want to give it a try. Stick with Ford oil and double check what oil type was used for your model year.

To make the brake fluid change easier spend a bit of and buy a pressure bleeder - Amazon

Coolant Flush - use distilled water for the last flush of the cooling system and also to dilute the coolant. 60 cents a gallon at Wally World. Stick with Ford coolant. The thermostat should be OK but replace the gasket when you pull thermostat to flush the block - Amazon

Differential oil I would skip. Maybe at 50K miles but I think the recommend interval is 100K.

Power steering, disconnect the hoses from the pump and let it drain. Measure what came out and refill with the same amount.

Fuel injectors, they should be fine at 9K but you can always start running a could of cans or Sea Form at fill ups. Run the generator also.
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garym114
Explorer II
Explorer II
Chassis lube.
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