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F53 suspension upgrades

two_travelers
Explorer
Explorer
We have a 27'Winnebago Vista and like others are not satisfied with the handling. In a recent Motor Home magazine article they detailed the upgrades to a larger coach by Henderson that was interesting.
I contacted them regarding what was needed for our model. They recommended a stiffer front sway bar, a radius rod and Koni FSD shocks. Seems, they feel, the CHF could lead to a component failure. While not cheap, I am considering it as the coach does have handling issues. I have a Safe T Steer installed, a rear trac bar and recently had a thorough wheel alignment that improved steering/handling greatly.

I never heard of a radius rod, but according to Henderson, it's job is to keep front leaf spring from moving forward/backward or side to side thereby improving steering and body roll. I never heard of a radius rod. Is any one familiar with this?
26 REPLIES 26

RLS7201
Explorer II
Explorer II
rgatijnet1 wrote:
Before I would spend any money on bolt-ons I would do the basics first. In other words load the coach exactly as it is when you travel with full fuel and fresh water(if you fill your tanks for travel), as well as food and clothing. Then have ALL four corner weighed and adjust your tire pressure according to the manufacturer's specs. The next would be to take it to an alignment shop, while the coach is still loaded for travel, that can deal with motor homes and get a front and rear axle alignment or a thrust angle alignment. Some shops will tell you that your rear axle is not adjustable when they DO NOT have the equipment available to set the trust angle on an RV chassis. It can be adjusted.
After you have done these things, and you still are not happy with the way the coach drives, then try some add-ons, one at a time.



Tell us how you adjust the rear thrust angle on a gas chassis with no provisions for adjustment? The spring hangers are bolted to holes in the frame, the spring draw bolt head aligns with a hole in the axle tube. There are no cams, no adjustable rods, etc.

Richard
95 Bounder 32H F53 460
2013 CRV Toad
2 Segways in Toad
First brake job
1941 Hudson

G-Dad
Explorer
Explorer
Henderson's radius rod sounds like a front track bar. You might have one if the you have a 18,000 lbs chassis. It's optional on the 16,000 lbs version. Easy to check. The attached image is looking front to back and the track bar is just above the front axle in the pic.

Henderson Kit has a radius rod for each side.
They mount longitudinally from the frame to the axle. Purpose is to keep the spring ends from moving front to back in the spring bushings. I have seen Bob Henderson show that movement

G-Dad
Explorer
Explorer
dcmac214 wrote:
I'd LOVE to see someone post photos of that CHF from before, each step of it, and after it's complete.


Look on iRV2.com. There is a stickey in the Ford chassis section with long discussions and photos

rgatijnet1
Explorer III
Explorer III
Before I would spend any money on bolt-ons I would do the basics first. In other words load the coach exactly as it is when you travel with full fuel and fresh water(if you fill your tanks for travel), as well as food and clothing. Then have ALL four corner weighed and adjust your tire pressure according to the manufacturer's specs. The next would be to take it to an alignment shop, while the coach is still loaded for travel, that can deal with motor homes and get a front and rear axle alignment or a thrust angle alignment. Some shops will tell you that your rear axle is not adjustable when they DO NOT have the equipment available to set the trust angle on an RV chassis. It can be adjusted.
After you have done these things, and you still are not happy with the way the coach drives, then try some add-ons, one at a time.

dcmac214
Explorer
Explorer
I'd LOVE to see someone post photos of that CHF from before, each step of it, and after it's complete.

tragusa3
Explorer
Explorer
The CHF made a marked improvement for us. Although, I only did the front. You guys are motivating me to try the rear. I was thinking of adding Sumo's soon, but will try the rear CHF first.

In all, I could live with ours like it is. It's actually pretty nice unless we have a strong cross wind.
New to us 2011 Tiffin Allegro Open Road 34TGA
Join us on the road at Rolling Ragu on YouTube!

way2roll
Navigator II
Navigator II
doxiemom11 wrote:
Have you looked at the cheap handling fix for the F53 chassis? We've done both front and rear. Hubby was able to do it himself. It made a big difference.


OP mentioned CHF in his original post and was told it was risky.

Of course being told a free fix is risky when you are trying to sell upgrades seems convenient.

To the OP, I had 2 gas class A's over the past 10 years and did the CHF to both without issues. One had 50k miles on it when I got rid of it and NEVER had any issues due to the CHF. Actually, I have never heard of anyone with any issues due to the CHF. The handling was so dramatically better. That combined with proper tire inflation solved most of the issues in how my coaches handled. That said, it's still an F53 and subject to a lot of noise and road feedback and you are driving an apartment. It's never going to handle like a car.

Jeff - 2023 FR Sunseeker 2400B MBS

doxiemom11
Explorer II
Explorer II
Have you looked at the cheap handling fix for the F53 chassis? We've done both front and rear. Hubby was able to do it himself. It made a big difference.

theoldwizard1
Explorer II
Explorer II
I am not an expert on MH suspensions, but a radius rod on a leaf spring, solid front axle, seems redundant. If the axle is properly secured to the springs, it can not move for/aft except for the compliance in the bushing in the leaf spring eye.

billyray50
Explorer
Explorer
2020 jayco precept 34G owner here. 2019 F53 GVWR 22,000. After six months of ownership I will be adding the super steer rear trac bar first. The coach actually handles pretty good except when confronting tail or crosswinds. Coach already has beefy Helwig sway bars both front and back from factory. Will access after install.

Dale_Traveling
Explorer II
Explorer II
What are you trying to achieve? Reduce body roll? Better straight line running and lane holding? Reduce wind push from weather or passing vehicles? Less jarring from poor roads?

There isn't a single bolt on product, tweak or change that will do all and if your RV budget is limited then your need to prioritize what you want to chase first. If you can't do the work yourself the costs will quickly escalate and consume your project budget.

Henderson's radius rod sounds like a front track bar. You might have one if the you have a 18,000 lbs chassis. It's optional on the 16,000 lbs version. Easy to check. The attached image is looking front to back and the track bar is just above the front axle in the pic.



Regarding CHF, there are thousands of owners who have driven thousand of miles with no failures, myself included. Keep in mind they are in the business of selling improvements not advising you to try a no cost alternative.
2006 Hurricane 31D built on a 2006 Ford F53

dodge_guy
Explorer II
Explorer II
My 2012 F53 has almost every suspension add on made, with the exception of a rear trac bar. The previous owner did all the work, Sumo springs front and rear, Hellwig sway bars front and rear, Koni schools front and rear and a Blue OX true center steering stabilizer! All this was for nothing as the coach was all over the road! And why I believe he traded it in on a DP! What I found was the tire pressures were too high and the front toe was toed out By 5/8”z I set the tire pressures to 86 psi and set the toe by taper measure to 3/16 toe in. Night and day difference!

For handling, the CHF can’t be beat. And they all should have some type of stabilizer put on.
As for ride, Sunos and Konis will make it ride like a DO with air suspension (or close to it).
Wife Kim
Son Brandon 17yrs
Daughter Marissa 16yrs
Dog Bailey

12 Forest River Georgetown 350TS Hellwig sway bars, BlueOx TrueCenter stabilizer

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