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Hitch height for towing TT

drsolo
Nomad
Nomad
Here is what I got:
1992 GMC G2500 vandura V-8 350 ci 4,482 lbs
3/4 ton van, max towing capacity of 6600lbs
towing
1996 forest river Wildwood 18FS TT 3480 lbs 19' x 8'0"

I am not positive what the actual weight of my RVan is, nor actual weight of my TT

Here is the link to a picture of the TT hitched to my RVan. Below is the double hitch I have.

My question refers to the angle of the hitch-TT connection and that the trailer is not being pulled straight on all 4 wheels. Should I put my hitch ball up into the higher slot so my trailer is level? Or doesnt that matter? It drives well, but getting in and out of driveways seems like it might be a problem with hitting the tongue. TIA.
Ingrid and Dan Retired teachers from Milwaukee, WI
1992 GMC Vandura conversion
19 REPLIES 19

drsolo
Nomad
Nomad
Well I got the WD hitch for 600/6000 lb. It was looking good. Took off on Dec. 13 from Milwaukee got near the Il border and blew the transmission. Fortunately, I had signed up for Good Sam roadside and they my RVan onto the truck, hooked up the trailer to a hitch and took me back to my door. It cost an extra $100 to my door rather than dropping me at the closest campground which in this case was the closest Walmart. Well worth the money. The transmission places are so busy that all they could say is they would really try to get my RVan back to me before Christmas. Sheesh.
Ingrid and Dan Retired teachers from Milwaukee, WI
1992 GMC Vandura conversion

stevenal
Nomad II
Nomad II
Unlike an extension, a long ball mount will not reduce the capacity of your hitch.
https://www.etrailer.com/Ball-Mounts/Hidden-Hitch/80232.html
https://www.etrailer.com/question-134812.html
'18 Bigfoot 1500 Torklifts and Fastguns
'17 F350 Powerstroke Supercab SRW LB 4X4

drsolo
Nomad
Nomad
stevenal wrote:
Check the dual extension rating. I don't see a bike rack in the picture. Do you really need an extension?


That extension was used to get the hitch away from the back of the van so I had more room between trailers and bumper. The dual part was for a cargo carrier, to hold the backup camera (which was stolen while my RVan was at the auto repair place being worked on), etc. The bike carrier is attached to the ladder. The extension now holds a "bumper" link higher where it would make contact with a car .... which isnt needed when towing of course.

I bought a CURT Trunnion Weight Distribution Trailer Hitch - 600 LB Tongue Weight. I have yet to determine if I need an adjustable ball mount.
Ingrid and Dan Retired teachers from Milwaukee, WI
1992 GMC Vandura conversion

stevenal
Nomad II
Nomad II
drsolo wrote:
I called Forest River, the tongue weight is 450 lbs.


Check the dual extension rating. Can't read the tag on your picture, but the similar one at http://www.discountramps.com/2-hitch-adapter/p/DRH-1/?CID=PSC-PLA-Google-DRH-1-hitch-adapters&st-t=g... is rated 400 lbs. Sometimes the tag will also say to reduce your receiver's rated tongue weight by half, and use the lower number.

I don't see a bike rack in the picture. Do you really need an extension?
'18 Bigfoot 1500 Torklifts and Fastguns
'17 F350 Powerstroke Supercab SRW LB 4X4

Traveling_Pa
Explorer
Explorer
Many years ago I flipped a jeep trailer over in the road. It was heavy in the rear, began to weave from side to side and flipped right off the ball. 60 percent of the trailer weight belongs on the front.

downtheroad
Explorer
Explorer
drsolo wrote:

How about this one?

That will get you to Florida....It's a basic and complete weight dist. hitch.

offer the seller less...
"If we couldn't laugh we would all go insane."

Arctic Fox 25Y
GMC Duramax
Blue Ox SwayPro

ChooChooMan74
Explorer
Explorer
The 2nd one you posted should be fine. Harbor Freight has a cheaper one, too. I would go with a WDH before a straight ball. Especially if driving a long distance. Your life and others on the road is well worth the $200.

http://www.harborfreight.com/10-000-lb-capacity-weight-distributing-hitch-system.html

But, if you go with a straight ball, get the ball as close to the van as possible, and use a riser hitch, like this one which is 2 3/4 inches of rise OR this one, which is a 4 inch rise. I wouldn't use that thing you're using. I don't think it is rated for heavy trailer towing. This one, which looks exactly like yours, says that it is rated for 400lb tongue and 4000lb towing.
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Hondavalk
Explorer II
Explorer II
E trailer has lots of good videos. Click on the installation link
http://www.etrailer.com/Weight-Distribution/Pro-Series/PS49902.html

drsolo
Nomad
Nomad
I am not sure what I need. Just the hitch and are the bars for anti-sway or what? Which pieces are actually needed?

So I am reading that getting something too big can affect handling as well.
Ingrid and Dan Retired teachers from Milwaukee, WI
1992 GMC Vandura conversion

drsolo
Nomad
Nomad
How about I put a load of rocks in the back of the trailer?
Ingrid and Dan Retired teachers from Milwaukee, WI
1992 GMC Vandura conversion

drsolo
Nomad
Nomad
downtheroad wrote:
The weight dist. hitch you linked to is just the bars...you also need the hitch head...for the bars to attach to and you need snap up brackets to hook the chains to...


How about this one?
Ingrid and Dan Retired teachers from Milwaukee, WI
1992 GMC Vandura conversion

downtheroad
Explorer
Explorer
The weight dist. hitch you linked to is just the bars...you also need the hitch head...for the bars to attach to and you need snap up brackets to hook the chains to...
"If we couldn't laugh we would all go insane."

Arctic Fox 25Y
GMC Duramax
Blue Ox SwayPro

drsolo
Nomad
Nomad
I called Forest River, the tongue weight is 450 lbs.
First, does a weight distribution hitch have to be "installed" or does it just slip into the receiver on the van?
Is this one good enough?
Ingrid and Dan Retired teachers from Milwaukee, WI
1992 GMC Vandura conversion

cbshoestring
Explorer II
Explorer II
I agree with the WD hitch others have mentioned, but if you are considering a quick trip without one, at least get a drop/rise hitch. They make them in all kind of different sizes and are relatively inexpensive. Even a 4" rise, that can be found at Walmart or any autoparts store, would get the trailer on to the back wheels. Check the weight ratings and remember not all drops have equal ratings when used to raise.


EDIT:

This will do very little to transfer the weight from your van, it will just make the trailer a bit more level. That van is still going to sag in the rear, and the front will still float. The receiver attached to the van will still be very near the ground---might scrape.
Make sure you take as much out of the front of the trailer that you can. Get it loaded further back---preferable over the trailer wheels---which will take some of that weight off the tongue.