How many of us are there? Owners of Dodge based RV's?

[whiteknight001]

I'm new here, and curious.

How many of us in Class C own Dodge B300 incomplete
cab/chassis based RV's? I know two others- Steve aka
Ripsaw, with a 1977 Brougham, and Leroy aka 1978_Dodge
_Delta who owns a 440V8 powered sharp looking 1978
Delta RV. I would like to ask, and offer, help, idea
swapping and comparing notes on our particular RV's
which are based on the Dodge B300 van chassis.

Yeah, I know. These are low tech, podgy old RV's that
would be considered "entry level" for folks like me,
but I have a deep and abiding respect for the quality
of these old "monsters of the open road". And anyone
wanting to pick brains, joke about, share notes or just
brag about our old A- Dodge-io's are certainly welcome
to PM or email me. Between all of us we can form a real
good support group, and help each other with problems
we know we'll encounter with an older vehicle.

Sure. I'd love a new RV. But I'd rather have an older
one already paid for, and a lotta great memories. Call
me frugal, an old hippie, or whatever you will. I'm proud
of my old land yacht.

Mopar Madness Manifest in the flesh,

Mark aka White Knight

P.S. Mine's a '72. Is there an older one out there someone's
motorvating in? Maybe even a Travco? W/K

[ALnCORY]

So I put new tires on my rig. Went from the 8x16.5's to 8.75x16.5's. The 8.75's are taller therefore larger circumference, therefore effecting my speedometer.... Anyone know where to find the formula to recalculate my actual speed verses what my speedo will show? I think I saw this addressed once but don't remember if it was here or somewhere else....

[skimask]

You're in Minot?
I'm out in Logan. Imagine that. I've got an old '76 Dodge Sportsman with a 440 that I've been working on for awhile. I'll take a look this afternoon and see what mine has. I don't think there is a 'best way' to change the belt. Likely only one way to change it. I'll tell you that the upper bracket that holds alternator in position is prone to breaking, so be gentle with it. If the bolts don't want to turn, spray them with some penetrating fluid for a few days before trying again. You don't want to break that bracket. PITA to get that fixed.
JDG

[chaserooooo69]

alright people, i'm in need of some help. on my 77 Travco 320 with a dodge 440 i need to replace the alternator belt, well not being able to see the front of the engine very well i've searched and searched for a picture or diagram detailing what i need to do to remove the other two belts that are in the way, does anyone either have a good picture of the front of a dodge 440 or have any idea's for me on how is the best way to change the belt? Thanks for your thoughts.

[ALnCORY]

Nice work Jerry,

Had new tires and shocks put on mine this week, also some brake work. Certainly improved the ride. Took it out to check it out last night and had problems with it idleing, sound like sucking air at low idle, maybe vacuum line?, I'll check tonight.... also showing discharge on gauge, first showed high charge and then dropped below charge line..... always some thing isn't it....

[Jer_Ger]

Well, I got the AC up on the roof :C. I used the ladder idea, but I didn't have any help :(, so I used my come-along to get it most of the way up, then I lifted it up the last 2 or 3 ft. myself. Wasn't too bad, but I think I'll rest tomorrow :W, besides, tomorrow is my meals-on-wheels route anyway. Now I hope I can remember how to hook it up. I didn't have time to get pics today so maybe I'll do that tomorrow.

[Leeann]

It works really well - worked for us. Like Ken said, put the bottom of the ladder as far away from the RV as possible, tie the rope securely around the boxed AC unit and have at least one person to guide it up as the other pulls it.

[Kendas]

Yep, it actually works... Just make sure you use a shallow angle and AT LEAST one other person to help guide the A/C unit up. If a new A/C is being installed, leave it in the box and tie securely!

[TreeSeeker]

Jer&Ger,

Others have hoisted the AC this way. Get a ladder, then put a rope up the ladder and down the other side. Tie the rope around the AC (very securely) and get help. One person on the other side hauling the rope, one on the roof and another pushing the AC up the ladder.

I have not tried this, but others have reported it worked for them.

[Jer_Ger]

Thanks for the reply's guys ( & gals );), I thinks I'll stick with the plywood. Right now, I'm finally finishing the roof off and ready to re-install the air conditioner, I just have to figure out how to get it back up there now:@. I'll get some pics tomorrow and post them. Thanks.

[eyeteeth]

I used MDF when I did mine. I also removed the stove when I did the counter. It was only a gas line, and four screws... easy to lift out. It may have been a little easier to route out the groove for the edging.

[Leeann]

Hi, Jerry!

I'd agree that plywood would be the safest choice...besides, it doesn't turn to sawdust quite as quickly as MDF (I'm really bad with liquids).

[ALnCORY]

Jerry,
You may be better off with the 3/4 ply. I used the mdf on mine but I took the stove out so it wasn't a problem... If you have good enough access to it you could install the mdf without the entire stove cut made and once you get the top down make the final cut with a jig saw, but thats only if you can get to it. Ply is certainly the safe choice.
Al

[Jer_Ger]

Hi everyone, I'm finely back to working on the RV again after a little time off. I need some advice. I have to make a new counter top for the sink area. I'm not sure if I should use 3/4" plywood or MDF as the base for the formica. I think plywood because of the area that goes around the back and side of the stove is only about 2 1/2" wide and would be prone to getting broken during installation. The guy at the local lumber store said that he thouhgt that most people used the MDF. That would be cheaper, but.....I can be clumsy at times. Any thoughts from anyone? Thanks

[skimask]

Yes, I've seen that website also, and have the same conclusion as Leeann, cars not heavy trucks/vans/Class-anything.
And the kit, while it does look fine for cars, doesn't do anything for the internals of the transmission. All that kit does is facilitate the physical installation of the transmission body itself. Put a stock 518/46RH into a motorhome, and I'm sure it'll smoke itself within short order.
400 miles per week = 20,800 miles per year. When I get my rig up and running, I'll be lucky to put on two trips per year at most. At the very most, maybe 10,000 miles (5K per trip). This thing ain't a daily driver ya know! 🙂 Might be in the future...distant future...but not now.
JDG

[Leeann]

Yup, I've seen that. afaik, that's for cars, not houses on wheels, but I could be wrong.

With the shift kit in our 727 and a freshly rebuilt torque converter, our rig is comfortable at 62 mph on the road. That's as fast as the bf feels comfortable driving it anyway since we do have some rear-end sway when trucks pass, although that is less with the dual-axle trailer than with the single-axle trailer.

We are looking in the junkyards for a rear sway bar to add in (standard on the RM400 chassis).