How many of us are there? Owners of Dodge based RV's?

[whiteknight001]

I'm new here, and curious.

How many of us in Class C own Dodge B300 incomplete
cab/chassis based RV's? I know two others- Steve aka
Ripsaw, with a 1977 Brougham, and Leroy aka 1978_Dodge
_Delta who owns a 440V8 powered sharp looking 1978
Delta RV. I would like to ask, and offer, help, idea
swapping and comparing notes on our particular RV's
which are based on the Dodge B300 van chassis.

Yeah, I know. These are low tech, podgy old RV's that
would be considered "entry level" for folks like me,
but I have a deep and abiding respect for the quality
of these old "monsters of the open road". And anyone
wanting to pick brains, joke about, share notes or just
brag about our old A- Dodge-io's are certainly welcome
to PM or email me. Between all of us we can form a real
good support group, and help each other with problems
we know we'll encounter with an older vehicle.

Sure. I'd love a new RV. But I'd rather have an older
one already paid for, and a lotta great memories. Call
me frugal, an old hippie, or whatever you will. I'm proud
of my old land yacht.

Mopar Madness Manifest in the flesh,

Mark aka White Knight

P.S. Mine's a '72. Is there an older one out there someone's
motorvating in? Maybe even a Travco? W/K

[eyeteeth]

Thanks Tree... but I was referring to the Onan Generator problem I mentioned a few posts up. lol. I found a trouble shooting guide, and I essentially have three options... 1) Low Oil/Bad switch. Tested OK 2) No AC Output. Next step to test... but I broke the fuse. (opps) I'm about to head to the store. 3) LOP is working properly, and it's putting out AC, then the control board is bad.

[TreeSeeker]

Eyeteeth,

This old post may help.
-------------------------
Posted 9/9/2007

Trish - the ballast resistor is a white ceramic object, about 4 inches long and 1/2 to 1 inch wide. It usually has a mounting bolt through the center and wires attached to each end.

(I hope I'm not repeating anything.) The ballast resistor decreases the voltage to the coil, which increases the life of the coil and sparkplugs. Generally, the ballast either works or it doesn't ... no inbetween. If it breaks, the coil and sparkplugs don't get any juice.

Most Mopars have a bypass circuit when the ignition switch is in the start position. This bypass provides higher voltage to the coil, and hotter spark, when you're starting the engine. Once you release the key and the switch returns to the run position, the circuit reverts to the ballast resistor.

A bad ballast resistor can be frustrating to diagnose because the engine will run when you hold the key in the start position but dies as soon as you release the key to the run position. To the best of my knowledge, a bad ballast resistor is the only thing that causes this scenario ... engine runs in start position, immediately dies in run position.

A ballast resistor can last a few thousand miles or hundreds of thousands of miles and there's know way of testing or telling how long a particular resistor is gonna last. The first (original) one on my '77 B200 lasted 1-1/2 or 2 years, the replacement lasted 5-1/2 years and was still going strong when I sold the van.

http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/14219250/srt/pa/pging/1/page/145.cfm

[eyeteeth]

Little troubleshooting today. Appears the diaphragm is fine, misdiagnoses on my part... I don't know what I'm doing anyway. Discovered something new though, it will start, but only runs until I release the starter switch. I've read about this before... somewhere... time to research.

[eyeteeth]

Old Trucker - yea... I'm good about keeping her level. That's not a big issue.

Dan, The problem with that, is we race/Boondock. We'll spend anywhere from a day to three days in the pits without any type of hook up. Running the genset that long isn't cost effective. I need a fridge to function off LP.

[Dan86300zxt]

I have absolutely no regrets from switching out our original 3way fridge to a brand new compact 120volt only unit.
*It's so simple. No leveling concerns. Quick initial cool down time. More room!!

Last weekend, we loaded the fridge with food about an hour before leaving with the MH plugged in to shore power and the fridge running.
(Also had the roof top ac running too to get the MH all cooled down before the drive)

The fridge and food was nice and cold before leaving and remained cold until we arrived at our campground a couple hours away.

Our new Fridge was purchased at a signifigant discount off ebay and works perfect.
*;) $19.99+$20.00 shipping for a NEW 4.3cuft Danby model#DCR412BLLH

(We also use one of the fridge fans..the deal with the two D size batteries...to assist in getting cold.)

[oldtrucker63]

I would say you already now that the fridge has to be really level to work right, Just a thought.:h

[eyeteeth]

There is no 12v. It's an old fridge. Also, if the little leak we found is affecting it we still have a problem. I wouldn't be able to run anything else lp related and not effect the fridge. It was very small, and the slightest air movement was enough to carry away what lp we were able to smell. It had to be very still to get any smell, and it took almost 30 seconds for even a small single bubble to form and pop.

[Leeann]

Check again after you repair the LP leak, just in case that's affecting it. But check the 12v connections to the fridge - that's what powers the board.

[eyeteeth]

^^^^ Well that doesn't sound good. ^^^^^

Probably much worse than my issues.

Generator stopped running this weekend, my initial diagnoses is the choke diaphragm. I 'think' it's easily replaceable, Onan 4000 Emerald Genset... any suggestions?

Ahhh.... adding to the list. I need a never ending scroll. Scratch one off, add one to the bottom.

Tried repairing a small leak in the connector for the shower head. Turned out it was leaking past the threads as I thought, but old cracked plastic on the faucet, and I only made it worse...

Other than that... we did get all the wiring issues resolved, and having the AC on its own circuit certainly made it happier.



For those following, the gas valve on the Fridge wasn't opening, so they replaced the board. Got it down to 27 deg in the shop, in the camper however, 50 is the best it would do on gas... electric can still freeze our food. 😞 Now we're REALLY Not sure.

Smelled a little LP over the weekend as well... found the nut holding the line to the water heater was cracked. Should be simple to repair, just a bummer.

T

[oldtrucker63]

chinook440 wrote:
Running the engine on ether/starting fluid just to keep it going down the road ???? you probably fried the valves and or cracked pistons and rings from what was originally a simple fuel supply issue!!!

I,d give that thing a compression check before you keep throwing parts and money into it .

WOW I did not know it had been sprayed with starting fluid Constant to keep it running, Hope it was not for too long or yeah your right the motor is shot.

[chinook440]

Running the engine on ether/starting fluid just to keep it going down the road ???? you probably fried the valves and or cracked pistons and rings from what was originally a simple fuel supply issue!!!

I,d give that thing a compression check before you keep throwing parts and money into it .

[oldtrucker63]

OneDeadChicken wrote:
I have a feeling that the vehicle is dependent on starting fluid. I've spent this entire weekend working on it. I don't know what to do anymore. It cranks and cranks, but won't start. No matter how much I do it isn't enough it seems. I've replaced almost everything apart from the distributor. I'm going to get a can of starting fluid and if she starts right up, I know I have to replace the engine. I'm bad at this stuff.

I don't know exactly what Ether does to a engine but it is like they can get hooked on it, I have see diesel also like this, After using Ether for a long time they get will not start without it, I believe you should have changed the distributor long ago,It could be your only problem, Good luck with it and have a great 4th.

[Leeann]

On ours, we have to gently pump the accelerator 4 times, give it a sec, then vroom.

[OneDeadChicken]

I have a feeling that the vehicle is dependent on starting fluid. I've spent this entire weekend working on it. I don't know what to do anymore. It cranks and cranks, but won't start. No matter how much I do it isn't enough it seems. I've replaced almost everything apart from the distributor. I'm going to get a can of starting fluid and if she starts right up, I know I have to replace the engine. I'm bad at this stuff.

[oldtrucker63]

Griff in Fairbanks wrote:

oldtrucker63 wrote:
Hey anyone here know the part number for a set of headers or a web-site where I can order a set, It is a 1979 Dodge 440 with the 727 trans And it's the M400 chassis, I'm hoping someone has already changed there's and know's the set that is direct bolt on.???...Thanks.

The problem is RPMs ... most headers are designed for high RPM engines for race tracks and drag strips. Our vehicles operate at low RPMs, making most headers only marginally effective or even counterproductive.

The exception is Tri-Y headers, such as those made by Thorley, which are designed to boost horsepower and torque in the low to mid-RPM ranges. However, finding a set can be difficult and somewhat expensive.

I recall an article, I believe it was in Streetrodder magazine, that compared various headers and stock manifolds. For our applications, stock manifolds were almost as effective as any of the headers. (They only tested commonly available headers so Tri-Y headers weren't included in the comparisons.)

Dodge made a set of high performance manifolds for the B/RB blocks back in the 60's that might be a consideration, if you can find a set. Clearance may be a problem because those manifolds swept UP and back instead of straight down.

Based on everything I've read (and recall), the most cost effective improvement would be to leave the stock manifold in place and install a dual exhaust system with an H or X crossover.

Having said all that, I intend to go with Tri-Y headers on MLP, with dual exhaust including a X crossover. If I have to, I'll have a set custom made. (I'm "pushing the envelope" on this project and am willing to pay the extra cost.)

Thanks And yes I can get the Doug Thorley headers and your right on the HP increase with the Tri-Y that Doug has come up with, I dont really want to spend $895 on a set of them unless I really have to, I'm hoping I can find a good set of shorties and spend the extra money on a new Intake Manifold and carb.