How many of us are there? Owners of Dodge based RV's?

[whiteknight001]

I'm new here, and curious.

How many of us in Class C own Dodge B300 incomplete
cab/chassis based RV's? I know two others- Steve aka
Ripsaw, with a 1977 Brougham, and Leroy aka 1978_Dodge
_Delta who owns a 440V8 powered sharp looking 1978
Delta RV. I would like to ask, and offer, help, idea
swapping and comparing notes on our particular RV's
which are based on the Dodge B300 van chassis.

Yeah, I know. These are low tech, podgy old RV's that
would be considered "entry level" for folks like me,
but I have a deep and abiding respect for the quality
of these old "monsters of the open road". And anyone
wanting to pick brains, joke about, share notes or just
brag about our old A- Dodge-io's are certainly welcome
to PM or email me. Between all of us we can form a real
good support group, and help each other with problems
we know we'll encounter with an older vehicle.

Sure. I'd love a new RV. But I'd rather have an older
one already paid for, and a lotta great memories. Call
me frugal, an old hippie, or whatever you will. I'm proud
of my old land yacht.

Mopar Madness Manifest in the flesh,

Mark aka White Knight

P.S. Mine's a '72. Is there an older one out there someone's
motorvating in? Maybe even a Travco? W/K

[goreds2]

JoninFountain - Very nice Dodge!

[JoninFountain]

Hi all. New owner here of a 78 Dodge Brougham Sportsman. got it in ok condition. Interior was nice with all of the seat/cushion/overhead fabric. carpet and ceiling will need some overhaul in the coming years though.

Roof had some leaks which I promptly took care of via silicone for the time being. Electric/LP Fridge was inop. Pulled it and put in a small electric for now til I can find the right replacement at a decent price or maybe parts to repair it. Stove, oven, water heater, furnace run awesome. Doghouse insulation was all gone, noisy and hot as heck up in the cab. Fixed that with high temp adhesive and quality insulation. Still need to get the firewall and undercarriage with some of that.

It had no major mechanical issues aside from the driver side front hub is tending to rub after warming up. Its a warping issue, but I am unable to pinpoint the problem. I changed the wheel bearings. Its not the rotor, and its not the outer hub. I cant tell if its inside the hub or the spindle. I need to check the caliper piston too as that may be freezing up.

And this last weekend I had a overheating issue and the overflow tank duct tape stopped working 😮 Gonna check the water pump and change the thermostat for good measure when I replace it and see whats what.

I was amazed at this awesome thread and the general knowledge contained here-in. I hope to be a helpful member in time.

Here are a few pics.

[goreds2]

Look at this beauty> Looks like it came off the show room floor!

1977 Georgie Boy

[rehoppe]

Just out of curiousity, check your engine to frame ground. A pair of battery jumper cables will do fine. Clip one end to the alternator bracket and the other to the frame.

It kinda sounds like a ground strap is almost not connected. And when it gets hot, it becomes an open. Just a passing thought.

[Griff_in_Fairba]

fierystorm wrote:
Hey Rehoppe. I wish I could send some to Colorado right now too with the way that wildland fire is moving... Right now we get rain from October through June apparently, and who knows what the weather will be like with this new tropical storm starting. Normally when that happens we get cool temps and rain. If this keeps up it is going to feel like year-round winter. I think we know where all of your rain went...

As to my gauge... okay, now I'm really confused... I managed to get the coolant temperature sensor off without pulling the alternator (still don't know how I managed that one but I did it). Got everything put back together and it looks good. Started up my rig. At first, no joy, then the needle on my Temp gauge starts to move upwards very slowly. I think to myself 'Finally!':@

Then the needle drops back down all the way to the bottom of the gauge and stops registering. Seriously!? :S

So now I'm thoroughly confused. I rechecked my wiring, I've a good ground, continuity, etc. But every time I start up my rig once it has cooled down and let it warm back up, it works for a little bit and then drops down again. I'm really lost. :h

Flush and "burp" your coolant system -- you may have an air bubble that expands when the engine gets hot, causing the sensor to lose contact with the coolant.

[TreeSeeker]

fireystorm wrote:
So now I'm thoroughly confused. I rechecked my wiring, I've a good ground, continuity, etc. But every time I start up my rig once it has cooled down and let it warm back up, it works for a little bit and then drops down again.

It could be that a connection is breaking when it becomes warm. Did you check the continuity when warm?

Have you tried watching the voltage to the gauge while the engine is warming? If the voltage is varying and doesn't drop, then perhaps it is the gauge. I suppose it could be the voltage regulator (for the gauges) but then all the gauges would be affected.

[fierystorm]

Hey Rehoppe. I wish I could send some to Colorado right now too with the way that wildland fire is moving... Right now we get rain from October through June apparently, and who knows what the weather will be like with this new tropical storm starting. Normally when that happens we get cool temps and rain. If this keeps up it is going to feel like year-round winter. I think we know where all of your rain went...

As to my gauge... okay, now I'm really confused... I managed to get the coolant temperature sensor off without pulling the alternator (still don't know how I managed that one but I did it). Got everything put back together and it looks good. Started up my rig. At first, no joy, then the needle on my Temp gauge starts to move upwards very slowly. I think to myself 'Finally!':@

Then the needle drops back down all the way to the bottom of the gauge and stops registering. Seriously!? :S

So now I'm thoroughly confused. I rechecked my wiring, I've a good ground, continuity, etc. But every time I start up my rig once it has cooled down and let it warm back up, it works for a little bit and then drops down again. I'm really lost. :h

[rehoppe]

fierystorm wrote:
Hey Treeseeker,

Yep, I checked out the wiring and the gauge before the sensor. Wiring is good all the way through and the gauge responds fine (although my gauge can only handle 5v, not the full 12v). So it's definitely the sensor. My plan to swap it out today is bust though due to the nice heavy rain I'm currently getting in my area of Washington State. Hopefully it will be just today, but the way the forecast is looking I doubt it.

Could ya send us some of that rain PLEASE. We're burning up down here in Colo..literally.

I'm having trouble getting into the mood to even select a trip. There's a severe drought going on here. Texas, Calif,, Nevada and N Mex. better be saving water, cause there's not much to send them left up here.

Take a look at our stream flows. Rafting season is going to be short or non-existant this year.

Colorado Streamflow Clicky

[fierystorm]

Hey Treeseeker,

Yep, I checked out the wiring and the gauge before the sensor. Wiring is good all the way through and the gauge responds fine (although my gauge can only handle 5v, not the full 12v). So it's definitely the sensor. My plan to swap it out today is bust though due to the nice heavy rain I'm currently getting in my area of Washington State. Hopefully it will be just today, but the way the forecast is looking I doubt it.

[TreeSeeker]

fireystorm wrote:
Just got through testing the coolant temperature sensor/sender. That was quite the pain to work the connector off to test the unit. Definitely bit the dust. After the engine cools down in the morning I'll be trying to remove it without pulling the alternator.

You are still assuming the problem is the sensor. It could be the gauge, the wiring or the connections of the wiring. I would test the easy stuff first.

You can still test the sender before you remove it--in fact that is the best way. Measure the resistance to ground while the engine is cold, then warm it up and test again.

You can also test the wiring. Measure the resistance from end to end. If the resistance is infinite then there is either a bad connection or splice, or the wire is broken or corroded. Or there is a blown fuse.

The problem could also be the gauge. Put 12v across the terminals and see if the needle moves.

[Jer_Ger]

Sorry for getting back to you so late Treeseeker, but your idea is right. I have used that trick in the reverse to install bearing by putting the bearing in the freezer for about an hr. and heating whatever it's going into with a torch. It drops right in (make sure it's straight)with no problem & it is in there forever. If you happen to have excess to liquid nitrogen that would work even faster.

[fierystorm]

Hey Treeseeker,

Going to try to do just that today. Not sure if I'll be able to clear the connector before it hits the bracket, but I'm hopeful some gentle work with some of the right tools will make it happen.


**Update**
Just got through testing the coolant temperature sensor/sender. That was quite the pain to work the connector off to test the unit. Definitely bit the dust. After the engine cools down in the morning I'll be trying to remove it without pulling the alternator.

Got to love the irony of it. I went from working on my rig to helping my father do something on his 2002 vehicle. Couldn't help but notice that his coolant temperature sensor/sender is right on top of his engine right as you open the hood, nice and easy to get to 😛

[TreeSeeker]

fireystorm,

Before you go to all that trouble to replace the temp sender, I would test it as per Griff's description. It might just be a bad wire or connection.

[fierystorm]

Hey Griff,

You rock!! :C I found it right away based on your description and picture.

But, of course, there is a hiccup. Now I know why I couldn't find it before... I have a large 100 amp alternator on my Dodge. The bracket that holds it is much larger than the one in your picture, and my engine is about 1.5 inches away from the bracket, giving me only that much room. Plus my bracket has only a small opening at the top. I can get one finger to the wire but no way to remove it or the sensor without pulling the whole bracket, which means removing the alternator. Fun times :R

But thanks to you I'm on the right track and I know what to do. Thanks a lot, Griff! :B

[Griff_in_Fairba]

fierystorm wrote:
Hey Griff,

But boy oh boy is the location of the temperature sending unit eluding me. I have two service manuals, both show different locations, both are wrong. The first shows it is right next to the thermostat housing, accessed through the hood. But short of two hoses next to the radiator hose, all I'm finding there is a 3 prong vacuum source nipple temp sensor for the EGR, and it's nothing like the replacement single prong replacement I picked up at NAPA, who told me the 3 prong I located is definitely not what I'm looking for.

The second book shows inside the doghouse on the front of the intake manifold. No joy. I've followed every wire I can in both areas and I'm lost :h I know you have different models/years than I do, and sorry to ask, but do you happen to have any thoughts where it might be? I can't believe this little part is so hard to find.

On a LA small block (273/318/340/360), it should be located next to the thermostat housing in the intake manifold next to the coolant bypass hose. (The coolant bypass hose is a short 1" diameter hose running from the water pump to the intake manifold.)

Note: I said, "LA small block." It may be different on the Magnum small block.

On a B/RB big block (350/360/383/400/413/426/440), it is on the front of the water pump housing between the water pump and alternator, behind the alternator bracket.

In both cases, it is located towards the front of the engine on the passenger side. It is small and hard to see.

Here is a picture of the temp sensor on a big block:


It's possible a previous owner upgraded to one of the newer sensors, which would look different. (Unlike older versus newer oil pressure sensors, I can't think of any reason for upgrading the temp sensor, other than they couldn't find a stock sensor.)