How many of us are there? Owners of Dodge based RV's?

[whiteknight001]

I'm new here, and curious.

How many of us in Class C own Dodge B300 incomplete
cab/chassis based RV's? I know two others- Steve aka
Ripsaw, with a 1977 Brougham, and Leroy aka 1978_Dodge
_Delta who owns a 440V8 powered sharp looking 1978
Delta RV. I would like to ask, and offer, help, idea
swapping and comparing notes on our particular RV's
which are based on the Dodge B300 van chassis.

Yeah, I know. These are low tech, podgy old RV's that
would be considered "entry level" for folks like me,
but I have a deep and abiding respect for the quality
of these old "monsters of the open road". And anyone
wanting to pick brains, joke about, share notes or just
brag about our old A- Dodge-io's are certainly welcome
to PM or email me. Between all of us we can form a real
good support group, and help each other with problems
we know we'll encounter with an older vehicle.

Sure. I'd love a new RV. But I'd rather have an older
one already paid for, and a lotta great memories. Call
me frugal, an old hippie, or whatever you will. I'm proud
of my old land yacht.

Mopar Madness Manifest in the flesh,

Mark aka White Knight

P.S. Mine's a '72. Is there an older one out there someone's
motorvating in? Maybe even a Travco? W/K

[Leeann]

Good grief. You've gotta do what Grandma Griff says or you're in a bunch of trouble.

Take it easy, relax and heal.

[Griff_in_Fairba]

Just a quick note ... it'll be even longer before I can get around to continuing my posts.

I just spent several days in ICU due to another heart attack. The cardiologist and my wife have place severe restrictions on what I do while I continue my recovery. Specifically, I am to avoid all stress. Because writing causes a certain degree of mental stress, I've been told to knock off any writing for a while.

Sorry, folks, I'm on my wife's naughty list.

[regis101]

No harm. No foul.
I am a builder of many things.
Most of my progress comes from an, adapt and move on, frame of mind.

[Griff_in_Fairba]

regis101 wrote:
True to all dat.
Having the RV has made me learn the importance of single flare for propane and water.
I would not want to use compression for brake lines. I would if I had to get out of da woodz.

I'm glad you agreed with me. My previous post was not aimed at you ... it was meant for others who are thinking of working on their brake system. (In case it wasn't obvious, I consider brake systems an extremely important part of a motor vehicle and can't count the number of times I've cringed at other people's repair attempts.)

Growing up in northern Minnesota and living in Alaska since 1980 ... and owning lots of older vehicles ... I've gotten stranded literally in the woods many times.

Only once was a stranding due to brake failure. In that case, I capped off one of the rear brake hard lines and drove very, very, very carefully 30 miles to the edge of the nearest town. When I got there, I parked at the edge of town and walked to the parts store, where I got a replacement hard line.

I actually don't like to make my own brake lines unless I absolutely can't avoid it. This sometimes means seemingly endless months of searching for suitable replacement parts, until I'm totally convinces they don't exist.

Although I haven't confirmed it, it appears that parts manufacturers and distributors maintain their brake parts listings and inventories long after they've dropped other parts for older vehicles. For example, my coworker and I have managed to find brake parts for vehicles from the 1930's, including some parts for vehicles unique to Alaska and other remote areas. (I dreaded see two of customers coming in looking for Nodwell parts ... although it only took three days to find and receive brake parts for it.)

On MLP, I'm doing a complete restoration on the 1973 RM350's front axle and brakes, including all new bearings, seals, king pins, steering linkage, and brake components. Some of the parts were on the shelf, including both front flex lines and one of the calipers. (For the umpteenth time, I asked the boss why we stocked one caliper but not the other.) Most of the other parts arrive within a week and rebuilt dual frame-mounted brake boosters took six weeks. Interestingly, the brake rotors took two years to find and acquire (finally through Amazon.com), with repeated iterations of ordering and sending back rotors that were supposed to be correct but weren't.

[regis101]

True to all dat.
Having the RV has made me learn the importance of single flare for propane and water.
I would not want to use compression for brake lines. I would if I had to get out of da woodz.

[Griff_in_Fairba]

Some of you may not be aware that I own a business, Riffgan Restorations, part of which is restoring old vehicle components. The business started because a small segment of people knew what I was doing with motorhomes (as well as other vehicles) and wanted me to do likewise with components of their projects.

At the start of a job, I divide all the parts into three categories:

1. Parts that can be simply replaced, with OEM or aftermarket products.

2. Parts that can be restored to like-new (or better-than-new) condition. Specifically, parts that cannot be replaced and must be restored to complete the projects.

3. Parts that must be custom manufactured, because the replacement parts are unavailable and the existing part cannot be restored.

The fact that I have a proven track record of accomplishing things that are generally considered impossible is why some people seek my services.

Brakes are one area that I avoid like the plague, due to the immense liability issues.

I have the tubing, fittings, adapters, and tools in my shop for fabricating brake lines. However, I will not fabricate lines for anyone other than myself. I will sell the components and rent the tools (with a hefty deposit), provided the customer signs a statement acknowledging risk and accepting sole responsibility for his or her efforts.

When I make a brake hard line (for myself), I always waste several inches of tubing practicing the flares, to make sure I can still make a strong, pressure-tight connection.

Compression fittings may work on water, propane, and compressed air lines. Compression connections on brake systems are extremely risky. In my opinion, such connections will fail, sooner or later. The connection is simply not strong enough for brake line pressure.

I replaced the air line between the compressor and tank on my air compressor because the original compression fittings failed. (Noisily and catastrophically.) For the replacement air line, I used flare fittings and added a shock-absorbing loop because a right-angle turn is part of the reason the original line failed.

The air line was simple, with a single piece of tubing and two connections. Brake systems are significantly more complex, with multiple tubing, connections, components, and branches.

The failure of the compressor air line was a minor inconvenience. On the other hand, a brake line is most likely to fail precisely when you need it most ... and could lead to serious injury or death.

When I use copper tubing on a propane system, I use single flare connections because propane systems are low pressure. For brake systems, I rely almost exclusively on double flare connections.

The risk is yours. If you make your own brake lines, and chose to cut corners, please stay out of Alaska ... I don't want to run across you on the road.

[regis101]

Thanks all. The back story is just as interesting. Think about it. Rusted brake line/nut at the MC. So replace the whole line. Easy right? The nut at the MC was free but it was rusted to the line. The , what if's, were numerous.
What if the nut at the bottom of the line at the proportioning valve was rusted.
What if I did replace the line and the rear bleeders were rusted.
What if I just cut the line and add the dreaded compression coupling.
What if I cut the line and added a double flare union.
What if I couldn't crack the rear bleeders.
What if I was able to spin the MC off the line.
What if I wasn't able to crack the front bleeders.
Way too many what if's. I know that there is a minute amount of air in the line(s) albeit being careful to not disturb the loose lines during R&R. I haven't bled the system as of yet. I do have good pedal and all will be well for a bit. This summer I'll redo the rubber lines and brake components at the four wheels
No, in the end I needed the line to break loose from the nut. It did.
The start of that particular day is that I went to the FLAPS. Picked up a coupla 9/16" - 3/16 flare nuts, some 3/16 brake line and brake fluid. Went to the hardware store and grabbed a compression fitting. Was all set to blast into it but the day swung in my favor
I cried but nobody saw. Nice to catch a break every now and then. Yeah, huh?

[rehoppe]

regis101 wrote:
I've been chipping away at the 'ol '73 when time permits.

Discovered the MC was leaking. The hard line that leads to the rear brakes was, cold welded/rusted frozen aint budgin' on the verge of breaking, to the nut.

I did the pb blaster thing for a few days. Kept trying to work the line free with minimal twisting. I then found out about the acetone/atf concoction. Tried that for a few days. Kept everything wet the best I could but being a liquid doesn't allow much to sit there. I left things alone for probably two weeks. Went out there with a pair of pliers to hold the line and a 9/16 line wrench for the nut. Held the line firmly while twisting the nut back and forth and voila, she broke loose.
I cried but nobody saw. The whole ordeal spanned prolly three weeks but I was amazed I was able to save the brake line.

We're going to have to change your handle to 'Jobe', in honor of your patience!!!
Congrats

[Griff_in_Fairba]

Methyl ethyl ketone (MEK) also works well, combined with automatic transmission Fluid (ATF). However, it's a wickedly dangerous chemical. (Acetone -- also known as nail polish remover -- is also dangerous but no where near as much as MEK.)

The problem with acetone and MEK is keeping them where you want so they don't soften or dissolve nearby things.

I also sometimes use phosphoric acid, diluted with alcohol and water, to loosen frozen parts. (I wash the part with acetone/brake cleaner first to remove oil and grease.) In case you're wary of the acid, try reading the ingredients on a can of Coke.

BTW - I also use ATF as sharpening fluid to put razor edges on my woodworking tools and knives.

[Ballenxj]

regis101 wrote:
Went out there with a pair of pliers to hold the line and a 9/16 line wrench for the nut. Held the line firmly while twisting the nut back and forth and voila, she broke loose.
I cried but nobody saw.

CONGRATS Man! I'm sure you feel better now. 😉

[regis101]

I've been chipping away at the 'ol '73 when time permits.

Discovered the MC was leaking. The hard line that leads to the rear brakes was, cold welded/rusted frozen aint budgin' on the verge of breaking, to the nut.

I did the pb blaster thing for a few days. Kept trying to work the line free with minimal twisting. I then found out about the acetone/atf concoction. Tried that for a few days. Kept everything wet the best I could but being a liquid doesn't allow much to sit there. I left things alone for probably two weeks. Went out there with a pair of pliers to hold the line and a 9/16 line wrench for the nut. Held the line firmly while twisting the nut back and forth and voila, she broke loose.
I cried but nobody saw. The whole ordeal spanned prolly three weeks but I was amazed I was able to save the brake line.

[Griff_in_Fairba]

Oh, yeah ... allow one or more shots of PB Blaster or Kroil to soak into the fittings before trying to remove them. Patience is much easier than having to replace brake lines due to damaging stubborn fittings.

On really old vehicles, with clearly corroded fittings, I often spend up to a week letting PH Blaster or Kroil soak in and unfreeze the connection. Usually, this involves one to three re-applications per day, with gentle rapping on the fitting to help the solvent soak in.

[Griff_in_Fairba]

regis101 wrote:
Another point to consider is the rubber brake lines. They have been known to get gummy and/or soft on the inside.
As told to me many moons ago, what happens is that when you push on the brake pedal the fluid pushes toward the caliper or cylinder but when the brake pedal is released, the inside of the line collapses thereby keeping the caliper or cylinder in the compressed position .

Precisely ... that is another potential problem with old, deteriorating flex lines. (Brake flex lines is the name commonly used for the rubber brake lines.)

On most (all?) vehicles, there are three flex lines. One on each of the front wheels and a third on the rear axle. Typically, the two on the front wheels are connected directly to the calipers (front disk) or wheel cylinders (front drum). The one on the rear axle is connected to a tee (which often includes a rear axle vent), with hard lines going to each of the rear wheels.

The flex lines allow for suspension movement.

On vehicles with multiple rear axles (live or idler), there's a separate flex line for each rear axle.

Flex lines typically cost less than $10.00 USD each. So, for less than $30.00, you can replace all three.

Identical flex lines are often used across multiple year/make/models so they should be easy to find, even for older vehicles. (This commonality tends to be more true for older vehicles whereas more recent models tend to have greater variations.) Use chassis VIN to look up the correct lines.

In case you can't find the appropriate listing, competent parts store staff can help you find appropriate replacements by visually comparing yours to the ones in stock. (I found suitable replacements for a 30's era vehicle this way for a customer when I worked at CarQuest.)

The flare fitting at each end is a determining fact, in terms of thread size and pitch, as well as type of flare. Focus first on the connection to the calipers/wheel cylinders and hose length. The other end usually has the same means of attaching the hose to the frame hard lines, although the thread/flare may differ from that of the hard lines. In that case, use a brass adapter fitting to make things work.

In the worst case, if you're unable to find the correct part numbers, let me know and I'll use my resources to try to find the correct parts. However, please try to find the parts yourself first. I'm really busy but I don't mind helping someone as long as they've made a attempt to help themselves. (If they just throw up their hands and turn to me first, I tend to charge -- a lot -- for my services ... if I even bother.)

[regis101]

Another point to consider is the rubber brake lines. They have been known to get gummy and/or soft on the inside.
As told to me many moons ago, what happens is that when you push on the brake pedal the fluid pushes toward the caliper or cylinder but when the brake pedal is released, the inside of the line collapses thereby keeping the caliper or cylinder in the compressed position .

[Griff_in_Fairba]

Oh, yeah ... the brake fluid in your master cylinder's reservoir should be clear and colorless. If it's reddish brown or milky, you really need to flush the system and replace the fluid.