How many of us are there? Owners of Dodge based RV's?

[whiteknight001]

I'm new here, and curious.

How many of us in Class C own Dodge B300 incomplete
cab/chassis based RV's? I know two others- Steve aka
Ripsaw, with a 1977 Brougham, and Leroy aka 1978_Dodge
_Delta who owns a 440V8 powered sharp looking 1978
Delta RV. I would like to ask, and offer, help, idea
swapping and comparing notes on our particular RV's
which are based on the Dodge B300 van chassis.

Yeah, I know. These are low tech, podgy old RV's that
would be considered "entry level" for folks like me,
but I have a deep and abiding respect for the quality
of these old "monsters of the open road". And anyone
wanting to pick brains, joke about, share notes or just
brag about our old A- Dodge-io's are certainly welcome
to PM or email me. Between all of us we can form a real
good support group, and help each other with problems
we know we'll encounter with an older vehicle.

Sure. I'd love a new RV. But I'd rather have an older
one already paid for, and a lotta great memories. Call
me frugal, an old hippie, or whatever you will. I'm proud
of my old land yacht.

Mopar Madness Manifest in the flesh,

Mark aka White Knight

P.S. Mine's a '72. Is there an older one out there someone's
motorvating in? Maybe even a Travco? W/K

[Griff_in_Fairba]

Teaser headline in CNN's Tech section today: "Electric Winnebagos are coming soon."

Something else I'd better start studying and following.

[Griff_in_Fairba]

Eric Hysteric wrote:
Thanks Griff, the PCV line is connected at the PCV Port. In most Edelbrock-threads, people advise to connect the distributor line to the timed vacuum port.

For example in this topic

Read that forum thread (topic) again. People are arguing one way and the other, so some of them don't have a clue.

In particular, read RustyRatRod's post.

The Edelbrock literature assumes everybody has a newer vehicle, newer than your motorhome. If you dig deep enough in their literature, you may find some mention of older vehicles. (Or, they may assume anyone with an older vehicle knows what they're doing.)

Older vehicles (pre-1961) didn't even have PCV, just a draft tube off the crankcase. (My '47 Willys Overland and '49 Int'l Metro were both draft tube -- no PCV) The only carburetor vacuum fitting was manifold vacuum for distributor advance.

My '66 Dodge Polara, the '68 Chevy 283 in the '65 GMC stepvan, and '69/70 Dodge M300 Class A all had PCV plus a single manifold vacuum port for distributor advance. (All three had the brake boosters ported off the manifold rather than the carburetor, with a check valve.)

But, don't take my word or anyone else's for it. Try it yourself.

With the two vacuum lines connected one way, check your gas mileage (gas klickage?) and see how the engine performs. Then, switch the lines and run the test again. (Use the same route/course both times to eliminate road variations.)

[Eric_Hysteric]

Thanks Griff, the PCV line is connected at the PCV Port. In most Edelbrock-threads, people advise to connect the distributor line to the timed vacuum port.

For example in this topic

[Griff_in_Fairba]

I just found a new idea for my motorhome ... turn signals that use actual blinker fluid.

[Griff_in_Fairba]

Instrument grease -- compatible with plastic gears. Check hobby shops that cater to RC car enthusiasts. Likewise, internet outlets that cater to experimental robotics hobbyists.

[Griff_in_Fairba]

RvFNG76 wrote:
small block 360 2 bbl wanna go 4 bbl but havent nailed it down yet. The engine in this monster is untouched except for the egr being removed (plate slightly leaks) by previous owner. Another fun little deal now is speedometer jumps and goes nuts every once in awhile checked the gear in the tailshaft but it looks fine any ideas?

Exhaust manifold -- I need a picture of what you have to see if one of my spares will work.

2bbl to 4bbl -- there are adapters for mounting 4bbl carburetor on 2bbl intake manifolds. Suitability is so-so and performance is less than optimal. Also, hood/doghouse clearance is often an issue. If you go with an adapter, definitely use a marine bilge blower ... the adapter will put the carburetor deeper into the hot air pocket under the doghouse.

You're better off switching from a 2bbl manifold to a 4bbl manifold.

Before you do it, check total cost. You may be able, for a slightly greater cost, to go to a multiport EFI manifold and system instead.

Speedo jumps -- clean and re-lube the cable, with graphite powder. (Clean with a solvent, such as kerosene, followed by brake cleaner or acetone ... flush thoroughly with each.)

Otherwise, the speedometer instrument in the dash is dirty or going bad. They can be cleaned and re-lubed. Be careful, some solvent can damage them. Dish soap and lukewarm water is best, along with small brushes and a lot of careful effort. Rinse afterwards with clear lukewarm water, followed by a denatured alcohol rinse. Re-lube sparingly with instrument grease.

Look for clearly worn plastic gears. I may have a spare speedometer, depending on what style you have. Alternatively, there's places on the internet that can rebuild old instruments.

[StingrayL82]

RvFNG76 wrote:
small block 360 2 bbl wanna go 4 bbl but havent nailed it down yet. The engine in this monster is untouched except for the egr being removed (plate slightly leaks) by previous owner. Another fun little deal now is speedometer jumps and goes nuts every once in awhile checked the gear in the tailshaft but it looks fine any ideas?

You can do what I did and hit up a junk yard for the 4BBL intake and carb. Any '79-newer Mopar with the 318 will have what you need, as the 360 heads were used on that engine.

As for the speedo, lube it. Graphite spray with the small red straw...unscrew both sides and shoot it down the ends. If that doesn't fix it, the problem is probably in your speedo unit.

[RvFNG76]

Griff in Fairbanks wrote:

RvFNG76 wrote:
Well shes finally all legal eagle after being set to the side for a year the ford tires and rims off my f350 performed well. Next is to get the exhaust fixed have a leak on the passenger side where the manifold meets collector. Does anyone have an idea on where i can get manifolds as my drivers side is cracked. Also cam question what would be the best cam to put into the 360

Thanks for the info.

Does anyone know if there's 17" duallies that fit the same Ford trucks?

I need 17" or larger rims to clear the large Kelsey-Hayes dual piston calipers on the front of my RM350. Chevy Silverado dual rims won't work. I want same/same all around and need to replace the 17.5" rims to find the M&S/offroad tires I need.

RE: manifold. Big block or small block? If small block. I may have a manifold in my spare parts collection.

small block 360 2 bbl wanna go 4 bbl but havent nailed it down yet. The engine in this monster is untouched except for the egr being removed (plate slightly leaks) by previous owner. Another fun little deal now is speedometer jumps and goes nuts every once in awhile checked the gear in the tailshaft but it looks fine any ideas?

[Griff_in_Fairba]

Make sure your PCV (positive crankcase valve) is connected and working. Otherwise, pressure builds up in the crankcase, possible leading to a blown crankshaft seal or oil pan gasket. (I need to replace the pan gasket on my E150 for that very reason.)

Also, make sure your power brake booster is connected to the carburetor. (Except for some recent Chevys, power assist brakes work off vacuum.)

[Griff_in_Fairba]

Eric Hysteric wrote:
I have next question 😉 At my Carter Thermoquad i had a vacuum line from the carburetor to the air pump diverter valve. Now at my Edelbrock 1406 carburetor i have 2 vacuum ports. Timed vaccum port and manifold vacuum port. I use the timed vacuum port for the distributor and the manifold vacuum port is free. Should i connect the vacuum line from the air pump diverter valve to the manifold vacuum port at the carburetor or should i deactivate (cork) the vacuum line from the air pump diverter valve?

Sorry for not responding sooner, I've been terribly busy lately.

If I recall correctly, Edelbrock has extensive technical and support sections on their website. Based on what I've heard, they're also good at responding to emailed questions.

It's been almost two decades since I messed with (exhaust/smog) air pumps and that was on a 1980 Ford 351M. (Your air pump looks identical to the Ford one.)

The air pump injects air into the exhaust stream, usually at the exhaust manifolds. The extra air causes unspent hydrocarbons (fuel) and carbon monoxide to be converted into carbon dioxide and water. (Oxygen + heat + chemical reaction.) Hydrocarbons and carbon monoxide are major components of smog.

A non- or malfunctioning air pump system causes an increase in backfires, especially when you let off the accelerator. Before I got my Bronco straighten out, one backfire split the muffler open at the seam, sounded like a gunshot, and the police were called.

I'm fairly sure the distributor should be connected to the manifold vacuum port and the air pump diverter valve to the timed vacuum port. But, double check with Edelbrock. (IIRC, "emission-controlled engines" is a legal rather than technical term and didn't show up until the mid-80s.)

[Eric_Hysteric]

I have next question 😉 At my Carter Thermoquad i had a vacuum line from the carburetor to the air pump diverter valve. Now at my Edelbrock 1406 carburetor i have 2 vacuum ports. Timed vaccum port and manifold vacuum port. I use the timed vacuum port for the distributor and the manifold vacuum port is free. Should i connect the vacuum line from the air pump diverter valve to the manifold vacuum port at the carburetor or should i deactivate (cork) the vacuum line from the air pump diverter valve?

[Griff_in_Fairba]

Fbx-Ak wrote:
It requires a high-pressure fuel pump and a return line to one of the tanks. That means that if you are running off the non-return tank, it has the potential to overfill the return tank. So you have to watch your gauges to be sure that doesn't happen. We can now use an auto-start to remotely start it. You don't have to be sitting in the vehicle pumping the gas pedal to start it on a cold morning.

There are valves, for switching between dual tanks, that also switch the return line to the appropriate tank ... I think. (It's been a while since I got involved in that kind of issue.)

[Fbx-Ak]

Eric Hysteric wrote:
Fbx-Ak, Holley Sniper fuel injection. How cool is that! What is your experience? Before and after, if you had a comparision between the carburetor and injection.

The fuel injection is much more responsive and meters gas exactly as needed. Computer controlled and adjustable. No unburnt gas getting into the cylinders.

It requires a high-pressure fuel pump and a return line to one of the tanks. That means that if you are running off the non-return tank, it has the potential to overfill the return tank. So you have to watch your gauges to be sure that doesn't happen. We can now use an auto-start to remotely start it. You don't have to be sitting in the vehicle pumping the gas pedal to start it on a cold morning.

We have had a minor problem with gas starvation at high temperature under load, as in going up a long hill at high speed. It is probably an issue of the fuel pump not keeping up with volume needed. Perhaps a lighter foot would help.

[toedtoes]

StingrayL82 wrote:

toedtoes wrote:
I know when I rebuilt my 360, I put in a new 4bbl carb (it had a rebuilt 2bbl). That first trip out, a friend with a 440 was joining me. He couldn't keep up with me.

Good! That's what I wanted to hear (or read, as it were). On the dyno, mine was a beast, but real world application trumps all.

What kind of mileage are you getting with it?

Not sure on the mileage yet - had problems with the fuel tanks. Will report back after my next trip. In the past, I was getting 7-10mpg depending on terrain. Expect i'm getting the same or better now.

[StingrayL82]

RvFNG76 wrote:
Well shes finally all legal eagle after being set to the side for a year the ford tires and rims off my f350 performed well. Next is to get the exhaust fixed have a leak on the passenger side where the manifold meets collector. Does anyone have an idea on where i can get manifolds as my drivers side is cracked. Also cam question what would be the best cam to put into the 360

Junkyard is your best bet for the manifolds. Anything post ‘79 with a 318 will fit, as Mother Mopar used 360 heads on them...that’s how I got my intake manifold. An absolute must is to take them to a machine shop an have them milled; it will ensure zero exhaust leak issues. I have yet to see SB Mopar exhaust manifolds that weren’t a little warped. Make sure they mill them and that they DON’T put them on a belt sander. I learned that lesson with the Fireball.

I’m not at home right now, but I’ll get you the Crane cam model number I used in my engine. Final numbers were 275hp & 325 lb/ft.