How many of us are there? Owners of Dodge based RV's?

[whiteknight001]

I'm new here, and curious.

How many of us in Class C own Dodge B300 incomplete
cab/chassis based RV's? I know two others- Steve aka
Ripsaw, with a 1977 Brougham, and Leroy aka 1978_Dodge
_Delta who owns a 440V8 powered sharp looking 1978
Delta RV. I would like to ask, and offer, help, idea
swapping and comparing notes on our particular RV's
which are based on the Dodge B300 van chassis.

Yeah, I know. These are low tech, podgy old RV's that
would be considered "entry level" for folks like me,
but I have a deep and abiding respect for the quality
of these old "monsters of the open road". And anyone
wanting to pick brains, joke about, share notes or just
brag about our old A- Dodge-io's are certainly welcome
to PM or email me. Between all of us we can form a real
good support group, and help each other with problems
we know we'll encounter with an older vehicle.

Sure. I'd love a new RV. But I'd rather have an older
one already paid for, and a lotta great memories. Call
me frugal, an old hippie, or whatever you will. I'm proud
of my old land yacht.

Mopar Madness Manifest in the flesh,

Mark aka White Knight

P.S. Mine's a '72. Is there an older one out there someone's
motorvating in? Maybe even a Travco? W/K

[Jer_Ger]

Hi everyone. I just got a nice Birthday Surprise. I have been watching Craige'sList in our area for a while now hoping to find a buy I couldn't refuse. Well, I came across an ad for an RV for parts. When I opened up the ad I quickly realized that the poster was offering a FREE RV :C to anyone willing to get it out of the yard. It is an "84" Coachman Leprechaun 23', 5.7 ltr. (350ci.) with water damage, a working Onan 4.0k generator & 2 way refrigerator, forced ducted heat & Coleman Air/heat. I called (turns out I was first), went to look at it, and she gave me the title, just like that :B! The water damage doesn't look that bad either. How's that for luck? Jerry P.S. The only problem is....It's a Chevy :W.

[Trish_Davis]

Oldtrucker is right about our 'new' gasoline.
15 years ago, you buy 112 from Sunoco ... sheesh.

Always run 89 octane in it.
Add good octane booster to every full tank.

When you pull your plugs, thoroughly SEE them.
Are they worn evenly? What color -black, honey, brown?
Reading an old spark plug tells you volumes about your engine. Listen to what they are saying.

Griff's right -Seafoam in the gas tank.
My father was right -Marvel Mystery Oil in the crankcase.

Get yourself to the public library in "References" and ask for a factory service manual on your 360. Can't take books out of the Reference section, so make copies and take notes.



These old Engine's will have a black tail pipe just because of the Gas we have these day's,...Way to much corn in the gas and this will burn black.

oldtrucker63 wrote:

vaxination wrote:
Thanks guys, great advice, I've got a chiltons on it, and I'll try the suggestions, I'd rather eliminate the relatively easy tune up stuff first rather than diving into the more expensive stuff blindly. its black in the tailpipe so its running rich, the question is, is it running rich for some other reason, like maybe they had it running rich so it wouldnt die when idling etc.. shes old, i'll have to take my time figuring it out, thanks for the place to start

vax

[oldtrucker63]

vaxination wrote:
Thanks guys, great advice, I've got a chiltons on it, and I'll try the suggestions, I'd rather eliminate the relatively easy tune up stuff first rather than diving into the more expensive stuff blindly. its black in the tailpipe so its running rich, the question is, is it running rich for some other reason, like maybe they had it running rich so it wouldnt die when idling etc.. shes old, i'll have to take my time figuring it out, thanks for the place to start

vax

These old Engine's will have a black tail pipe just because of the Gas we have these day's,...Way to much corn in the gas and this will burn black.

[Glenndolph]

we started out with my ford ranger with a seven foot jayco popup truck camper pulling a 8x10 trailer with my spyder on it and THEN we got to SoCal... we decided we needed something with a bathroom... so here we are in Giddings, TX getting ready to pull out to Orangefield, Tx and then to Benton, Ar... then home to SC... yeah, started as a 3 month trip...

[TreeSeeker]

Glenndolph wrote:
We're currently on the road going back east after and extended 'three hour tour' starting last August

Welcome to the forum. Please explain. Do you mean you left in the RV for a 3 hour tour last August and never went home? If so, sounds like you are having fun!

[Glenndolph]

I've acquired a '77 Dodge CB300 based Jamboree. We're currently on the road going back east after and extended 'three hour tour' starting last August... less than 50k on the clock, and when my nephew, Jason, had it, put on the air ride air bags. every little bit helps...

[vaxination]

Thanks guys, great advice, I've got a chiltons on it, and I'll try the suggestions, I'd rather eliminate the relatively easy tune up stuff first rather than diving into the more expensive stuff blindly. its black in the tailpipe so its running rich, the question is, is it running rich for some other reason, like maybe they had it running rich so it wouldnt die when idling etc.. shes old, i'll have to take my time figuring it out, thanks for the place to start

vax

[rehoppe]

I would Highly suggest doing some diagnosis, before you do Anything.

A compression check would be one of the first steps.

Does it use oil?

Is the PVC valve stuck?

When you open the 'oil fill cap' does it push out of that?

Does it smoke on acceleration, on deceleration, or all the time?

Get or read a good manual on your engine application, as to 'engine smoking'.

You may hane any one of a multitude of problems. Eliminate/narrow the possibilities, hoping that it Not rings. It May be as simple as plugged oil gallery drainage ports/passageways. And a good engine cleaner is all you need.

As a general rule I don't like engine cleaners because most of them 'clean' by breading done deposits, which also reduces the viscosity of the oil. And that ain't good! When I do injector cleaner, I like to change the engine oil within 3 tanks of gas later, cause some of that stuff could get by the rings and into the crankcase..... I like to Not damage my bottom end with poor viscosity.

[Griff_in_Fairba]

Trish is on target ...

However, I used to add the MMO to the crankcase engine oil ... now I use Seafoam SF16. One pint added to the new oil when I change the oil and filter ... and the other pint to the gas tank.

Is it black smoke or blue? Like Trish said, black smoke or soot in the tailpipe indicates it's running rich. Blue smoke indicates it's using oil. One older Mopar LA engines (the small blocks), the valve stem seals tend to disintegrate and cause oil to be sucked pass the valve stems into the combustion cylinders. (Many people -- myself included -- have done unnecessary valve jobs when replacing the valve stem seals would have reduced or eliminated the excess oil usage.)

I don't know if big blocks (383, 413, or 440) have the same problem with valve stem seals but I'd definitely try replacements before going deeper into the engine.

Always, always, ALWAYS change the filter when you change the oil.

And -- change the air filter. A plugged up air filter can cause an engine to run rich.

[Trish_Davis]

Don't add an "engine cleaner" to your oil. Use 10W30.
Not synthetic 5W, use good Valvoline or Castrol 10W30.

You will have to change your oil and filter at least 3 or 4 times over the period of 1 month to shift the 'old oil' dirt.

Make certain to change the filter every time because the dirt gets caught in it and, if you don't, you'll end up with the problem you have --old oil dirt circulating inside your engine block.

Change oil & filter, drive 20 miles. Do this everyday for 1 week.
Then, change the oil and filter again.
Once your old oil comes out the color of honey, you have eliminated all the years of dirt.

Again, DO NOT add things to your oil. Unless you know why and, at this point, you don't.


Add 1 pint of Marvel Mystery Oil to 1 tank of gas, ~15 gallons.
Add Marvel Mystery Oil at every fillup and use an octane booster.
DO NOT put MMO in the oil. Put it in the tank.


Is your tailpipe black on the inside? (Probably.)
This means your engine is running rich, or, too much fuel-to-air mix.

However, you need to change one thing at a time to figure out precisely what is going on with your engine. Do not tinker with the idle screw on the carburator. Really, don't.


After 4 oil changes and 2 tanks of gas + MMO, you will see a marked improvement.
Then, move on to a full tune-up.

vaxination wrote:
Next its time to do some engine work, it runs good it I just need to source out the cause of the black smog she puts out and maybe try to cut down on that.

Do you guys think adding a cleaner to the engine oil next time I change it out would be a good idea?

I know old engines sometimes end up worse off if you put something too abrasive in there, but I'm sure there is buildup from years of grime that would likely be good to flush out. I'm open to your suggestions, thanks!

Drew (vaxrv.com)

[vaxination]

Hey Guys, I got done repainting my living room area of the rv (dodge sportsman chassis 75 tioga) Its pretty much a full remodel inside compared to the original layout, theres a gallery of pics at
http://vaxrv.com/2012/05/new-coat-of-paint-for-the-living-room/

you can click blog at the top to see other posts about projects I'm working on. I figured I might as well keep a record of what I'm doing with it since its an epic project of sorts. So far I've painted both the outside and inside white, I'm debating trim colors at the moment but I had to get it to at least base white so it didnt look that 70s brown outside or hippy swirl inside. much better!

I think next its time to do some engine work, it runs good it I just need to source out the cause of the black smog she puts out and maybe try to cut down on that, I also need to reseal the dog house and some other small stuff. Do you guys think adding a cleaner to the engine oil next time I change it out would be a good idea? I know old engines sometimes end up worse off if you put something too abrasive in there, but I'm sure there is buildup from years of grime that would likely be good to flush out. I'm open to your suggestions, thanks guys!

Drew (vaxrv.com)

[stevegriffith22]

Also, got a buddy that got me metal roofing flat galvanized in 8x10 sheets. I'm going to use that. I know it won't look pretty, but were not going for looks this is going to be a surfing rig with a rhino lined floor. Dry and mechanically sound is our priorty.

sg

[stevegriffith22]

All right, thanks, suggestions on how to keep them seperate? AT the top the will be touching for about a foot. I understand the elctrolysis, how would you seperate them?

sg

[Jer_Ger]

If you use steel, be sure not to let the aluminum and steel touch, Electrolysis (sp?):(.

[rehoppe]

STeve

You might check out what a sheet metal shop has to offer?

I've seen thin aluminum and steel plate at Recycle Metal place,,, they sell metal by the pound.

Also seen 'used' siding at RV recycle place.

For that matter steel or vinyl siding might work as well. You'd need to secure it well, since that is a vacuum pocket in the back.