How many of us are there? Owners of Dodge based RV's?

[whiteknight001]

I'm new here, and curious.

How many of us in Class C own Dodge B300 incomplete
cab/chassis based RV's? I know two others- Steve aka
Ripsaw, with a 1977 Brougham, and Leroy aka 1978_Dodge
_Delta who owns a 440V8 powered sharp looking 1978
Delta RV. I would like to ask, and offer, help, idea
swapping and comparing notes on our particular RV's
which are based on the Dodge B300 van chassis.

Yeah, I know. These are low tech, podgy old RV's that
would be considered "entry level" for folks like me,
but I have a deep and abiding respect for the quality
of these old "monsters of the open road". And anyone
wanting to pick brains, joke about, share notes or just
brag about our old A- Dodge-io's are certainly welcome
to PM or email me. Between all of us we can form a real
good support group, and help each other with problems
we know we'll encounter with an older vehicle.

Sure. I'd love a new RV. But I'd rather have an older
one already paid for, and a lotta great memories. Call
me frugal, an old hippie, or whatever you will. I'm proud
of my old land yacht.

Mopar Madness Manifest in the flesh,

Mark aka White Knight

P.S. Mine's a '72. Is there an older one out there someone's
motorvating in? Maybe even a Travco? W/K

[mkpj1]

Anybody used any elstemeric or plasticote products for their roofs?

Any opinions?



ken
76 22 foot
360

[nodakotaclassc]

I think my plan for this weekend is going to be to check and make sure my converter is grounded properly and everything 'looks ok.' Then I will check out that line with a multimeter. Last summer I replaced the walls and ceiling and noticed that the system that runs off of the converter uses a red-covered romex and the 115 lines are white-covered like in my house. Anyway, if I cannot come to any conclusions I will just run a fused line from the battery.

On a side note I am so happy I found this website. I bought my class c last year and really have just run into one problem after another (mainly because I had never been in or around an rv before). In February I stumbled upon rv.net and have enjoyed owning a rv much more ever since. I can spend hours just reading what everyone has to say, and solve some of my problems without even having to ask. Everyone on this site is so friendly it makes me feel like I belong to a club---a RV CLUB! Anyway, thanks for the help this past week. It makes me excited to go back out and work on it some more.

Brady

[Big_John1]

nodakotaclassc wrote:
Ken,

Thanks for the advise, I stopped by the hardware store after work and picked up a multimeter. I haven't taken a look at the instructions, but do you know if when checking voltage do you test in parallel or series? I know one way is for voltage and the other is for amperage.

Brady

Voltage is checked with the probes placed in parallel and amperage (current) is checked with the probes in series. Just be sure that the current you are measuring is less then what your multimeter capable of or you'll blow the internal multmeter fuse.

Do a google search and you'll find a few tutorials of how to use your multimeter.

[Leeann]

mkpj1 wrote:
I would suggest putting in a dedicated line in somehow. I have a second battery, and if you do, you could get a little fuse box and put in a few 12V DC items or just run a line to the chassis fuse box. Some will have an empty slot.

That's what we did with our new stereo - ran a block from the coach battery under the dash and hooked up the accessories to that (with fuses). Much better than depending on the irregular and inadequate wiring from the factory and PO hacks.

[mkpj1]

no problem Brady,

I just bought a 76 22 foot class C and I'm still learning myself. My lights run on both DC and AC shore power. So they have to be 12 volt lights. Converted somewhere. I'm thinking you have a voltage drop trying to come off the lights. They are probably wired in series so the voltage drop is increasing the amps across your fuse and blam. I'd check the voltage at the wire you are connecting to the radio and see what you get. I really am assuming that this light will run off your batteries so make sure it's not a 120v AC.

Yes, amps are tested in series. See how many amps your radio is running to get the power (watts) it needs to run. Probably exceeding the fuse rating and I would not put a bigger fuse in.

I would suggest putting in a dedicated line in somehow. I have a second battery, and if you do, you could get a little fuse box and put in a few 12V DC items or just run a line to the chassis fuse box. Some will have an empty slot.

Let us know what you find out because thats a good idea.

Ken

[nodakotaclassc]

Ken,

Thanks for the advise, I stopped by the hardware store after work and picked up a multimeter. I haven't taken a look at the instructions, but do you know if when checking voltage do you test in parallel or series? I know one way is for voltage and the other is for amperage.

Brady

[79powerwagon]

79powerwagon wrote:
Howdy all! I guess I can officially say I'm a member too of the mighty Mopar Madness club!

Just this week picked up a 1973, yes, you heard me right, 1973 Tioga class C unit with 75,000 miles on her!

What a piece of junk! 😉 She won't stay that way too long though!

Mighty stock 360 2v powered beast! This will change!

Yes, it's green! Yes, it's pretty simple compared to todays rigs. But she has a toilet/vanity/shower, full range, Dometic 3 way fridge, sleeps 6, and despite all the wood grain finishes in her, not a spec of real wood anywhere!

Anyone have ANY idea where to get info (service related) on this old girl? Some things about her just don't add up...

Eric

Just an update if anyone cares-

The past week or so I've learned ALOT about this rig! I do know for certain now that the 120v electrics work as they should. The 12v electrics in the house almost work as they should. The fresh water works as it should (but I haven't tested the h2o heater yet). The drains all work as they should. The furnace, range, and fridge work as they should. LP system upgraded to current standards.

All roof leaks have been repaired, and the mangled roof vents have been replaced. The rear entry door leaks a bit, I'll get that sorted out. Every running light has been replaced, and they all work! All the access doors have been repaired/replaced and keyed alike. The ripped fuel system is all nice and new now!

Stuff yet to do before this week-end- New tires, new tune-up, fresh fluids, rebuild that lousy 2v carb, R&R the brakes (just in case), new house battery and charger, new fresh water drain petcock, get her registered and insured... Hmmm, this all seemed to go alot faster when I was off 5 days for the holiday. This list is getting long, and time is getting short!:S Oh well, this is part of the fun of it!

Eric

[mkpj1]

Brady,

fuse is saving your CD player. Too many amps off that area you re wiring from. Get a Multimeter and see what you are drawing. also make sure you are using the right gauge wire to connect. The other option may be a poor ground. You also said something about being plugged in? Uh Oh? That could be a 30 amp line when plugged in. Be careful!

I would make a dedicated line to your chassis fuse box and get a hot line without needing a key-on situation. May have a free connection. Just use a multimeter to see if it has 12 volts with the key off.

Ken

[jmangrum]

check my signature ,jeff

[Kiki_de_los_Fel]

"CHECK for a plugged heat crossover in the intake manifold"

Thanks Boondocker. We will do so this weekend.

Actually, I have no idea what that means, but hopefully the boyfriend does, as he had a Dodge 440 for years. My department is measuring for blinds...

[MasterBoondocke]

Kiki .... CHECK for a plugged heat crossover in the intake manifold. Most all 318 and 360's are "famous" for doing this. If it IS plugged .... it will negatively effect fuel econ ... big time.

[Kiki_de_los_Fel]

Hi folks - You are right, it's a 360. And the chassis is a Sportsman. We haven't really given it a fair mileage test yet, but will do so one weekend soon. Can't wait to get her out on the road! - Kiki

[nodakotaclassc]

I will double check everything again this weekend. The crazy part is, I tried two different cd players and two different wiring harnesses (brand and all). Also, the fuse dosen't just pop when you plug it all together, it delays about 3 seconds.

Thanks for the advise, I will take some extra time and care with it this weekend.

Brady

[Big_John1]

nodakotaclassc wrote:
I have a 1979 class C. 27' dodge 440.

I have been fixing it up for about a year now, and attempted to install a cd player in it today but ran into a problem. What I was trying to do was install a car/truck regular dash cd player above the sink in a cupboard. For power I tapped into a 12v light nearby. Well, I just keep blowing fuses. I have tried wiring to a different light, a different cd player, with the RV plugged in, with the RV running, and with the RV plugged in and running. No matter what I tried, the cd player's fuse would pop about 3 seconds after I plugged the wiring harness into it. I don't know where to go from here, any help/insight would be very helpful.

Brady

Its not in the RV, its either in your wiring harness for your cd player or in the player itself. Double check ALL your wiring on the CD player, making sure you have every wire correct per the CD player manual.

[nodakotaclassc]

I have a 1979 class C. 27' dodge 440.

I have been fixing it up for about a year now, and attempted to install a cd player in it today but ran into a problem. What I was trying to do was install a car/truck regular dash cd player above the sink in a cupboard. For power I tapped into a 12v light nearby. Well, I just keep blowing fuses. I have tried wiring to a different light, a different cd player, with the RV plugged in, with the RV running, and with the RV plugged in and running. No matter what I tried, the cd player's fuse would pop about 3 seconds after I plugged the wiring harness into it. I don't know where to go from here, any help/insight would be very helpful.

Brady