How many of us are there? Owners of Dodge based RV's?

[whiteknight001]

I'm new here, and curious.

How many of us in Class C own Dodge B300 incomplete
cab/chassis based RV's? I know two others- Steve aka
Ripsaw, with a 1977 Brougham, and Leroy aka 1978_Dodge
_Delta who owns a 440V8 powered sharp looking 1978
Delta RV. I would like to ask, and offer, help, idea
swapping and comparing notes on our particular RV's
which are based on the Dodge B300 van chassis.

Yeah, I know. These are low tech, podgy old RV's that
would be considered "entry level" for folks like me,
but I have a deep and abiding respect for the quality
of these old "monsters of the open road". And anyone
wanting to pick brains, joke about, share notes or just
brag about our old A- Dodge-io's are certainly welcome
to PM or email me. Between all of us we can form a real
good support group, and help each other with problems
we know we'll encounter with an older vehicle.

Sure. I'd love a new RV. But I'd rather have an older
one already paid for, and a lotta great memories. Call
me frugal, an old hippie, or whatever you will. I'm proud
of my old land yacht.

Mopar Madness Manifest in the flesh,

Mark aka White Knight

P.S. Mine's a '72. Is there an older one out there someone's
motorvating in? Maybe even a Travco? W/K

[Old_timer_Dave]

Have you still got this oldie on the road. Mine is a 1978 Dodge wickes 2000.
The 78 has a 3300lb front axle. The 79 has a 36000lb. Has anybody found parts for the front axle if it's got duelies On the rear.
The part number for the rotor is different than the single axle. The duel #4037876 and the single #4037875. The book that I found says the 875 works for b,cb,mb3,d. Thats all single axle. Just from memory that is. I think that the rotor is bigger because of the rear end having more humph.
The camper section sleeps six and it goes by the name of "Empress" and model starts #20CDL as such I take it that it's a twenty foot made in Lethbridge, Alberta, Canada.

Anyone around this thread anymore?

whiteknight001 wrote:
I'm new here, and curious.

How many of us in Class C own Dodge B300 incomplete
cab/chassis based RV's? I know two others- Steve aka
Ripsaw, with a 1977 Brougham, and Leroy aka 1978_Dodge
_Delta who owns a 440V8 powered sharp looking 1978
Delta RV. I would like to ask, and offer, help, idea
swapping and comparing notes on our particular RV's
which are based on the Dodge B300 van chassis.

Yeah, I know. These are low tech, podgy old RV's that
would be considered "entry level" for folks like me,
but I have a deep and abiding respect for the quality
of these old "monsters of the open road". And anyone
wanting to pick brains, joke about, share notes or just
brag about our old A- Dodge-io's are certainly welcome
to PM or email me. Between all of us we can form a real
good support group, and help each other with problems
we know we'll encounter with an older vehicle.

Sure. I'd love a new RV. But I'd rather have an older
one already paid for, and a lotta great memories. Call
me frugal, an old hippie, or whatever you will. I'm proud
of my old land yacht.

Mopar Madness Manifest in the flesh,

Mark aka White Knight

P.S. Mine's a '72. Is there an older one out there someone's
motorvating in? Maybe even a Travco? W/K

[Old_timer_Dave]

Well I for one have just gained one this year. Went back to the year i first fancied one I guess. Because we found an old 1978/79 Dodge wickes canada ltd. at a good fixer upper price. Called an "Empress" model 2000

The Vin Starts as follows F34JT9VXXXXXX the x denoting the serial number. F30 dodge body style on black and white plate. Running the first part of the VIN I come up with.MB300 chassis, high cab sportsman, 8,500Lb GVW, 360 8 4 bll, 79 model year, Dodge city truck plant. Black tag also says the front axle is only 3300 lb so that makes it a 78 as the 3600 only came out in 79.

All well and good except I need brake work on the front end. I intend to change the rotor and pads. Along with calipers then rebuild the old calipers. the part number I found online for the Rotor original # from a dodge parts manual #4037876 is for the MB3 with rear Dual axle and 3300LB front axle rating. The MB3 with single axle has the same front axle as the B3,CB,D2. all showing up with a # 4034875.

Ok my question is what have everyone else done in this situation, I have emailed various online parts places and draw blank. Ideas anyone please.

You can draw out a service manual Factory type, from the ARCHIVE.ORG for a period of two weeks at a time. The coach section I'm not to worried about as were only in our seventies and if we need a rest we take one.

1#2$3_4

I don't know if i did that right but its my first try.

:h

whiteknight001 wrote:
I'm new here, and curious.

How many of us in Class C own Dodge B300 incomplete
cab/chassis based RV's? I know two others- Steve aka
Ripsaw, with a 1977 Brougham, and Leroy aka 1978_Dodge
_Delta who owns a 440V8 powered sharp looking 1978
Delta RV. I would like to ask, and offer, help, idea
swapping and comparing notes on our particular RV's
which are based on the Dodge B300 van chassis.

Yeah, I know. These are low tech, podgy old RV's that
would be considered "entry level" for folks like me,
but I have a deep and abiding respect for the quality
of these old "monsters of the open road". And anyone
wanting to pick brains, joke about, share notes or just
brag about our old A- Dodge-io's are certainly welcome
to PM or email me. Between all of us we can form a real
good support group, and help each other with problems
we know we'll encounter with an older vehicle.

Sure. I'd love a new RV. But I'd rather have an older
one already paid for, and a lotta great memories. Call
me frugal, an old hippie, or whatever you will. I'm proud
of my old land yacht.

Mopar Madness Manifest in the flesh,

Mark aka White Knight

P.S. Mine's a '72. Is there an older one out there someone's
motorvating in? Maybe even a Travco? W/K

[Leeann]

PB Blaster will get it loose, but white lithium will keep it loose. Different stuff for different needs.

[StingrayL82]

Griff in Fairbanks wrote:


Note: WD-40 really isn't a penetrating oil or a lubricant. It's meant to inhibit corrosion by displacing moisture. (WD-40 = Water Displacement, 40th formulation attempt.)

And yet it works so well and at half the price of AeroKroil, for which I paid $20 for a 10 oz. can. WD-40 is what most guys have in their garage, followed by PB Blaster, which is also awesome, but the best by far for keeping it lubricated is white lithium in a spray can, that or a graphite spray can.

[PolCat-76-Avion]

Griff in Fairbanks wrote:

You're going to need to pull the control panel, located above the ignition switch. Usually one or two screws on the bottom or sides. Careful, the top is usually held in place by a tab on the panel that goes behind the dash sheet metal. After the screws are out, pull the bottom of the control panel a little bit, then the panel downward a bit to release the tab for the dash. (I've seen people break that tab.)

Look for corrosion or gummy lubricate. A bit of PB Blaster or Kroil, allowed time to work, will free it. (Spray cans can get messy so I sometimes spray on a piece of scrap metal and pick it up with a cotton tipped swab to apply it.) It may take a day or three for the PB Blaster or Kroil, applied repeatedly, to free the slider.

Once it's free, clean with brake cleaner. Re-lubricate, preferably with white lithium grease, and reassemble.

Do NOT use electronic contact cleaner! That "attacks" plastic, causing it to disintegrate.

Go slow and don't force things.

If you get stumped, yell and post pictures.

Note: WD-40 really isn't a penetrating oil or a lubricant. It's meant to inhibit corrosion by displacing moisture. (WD-40 = Water Displacement, 40th formulation attempt.)

From the backside there are 2 speed nuts that hold the control panel to the face of it through the dash. The control can not be pulled out the front because it is bigger than the hole, only the face plate after 1 more of those speed nuts are removed. That is where I stopped and fought to get those push buttons back through the holes in the face plate.
I picked up a choke cable from Autozone for 8$ drilled a hole right along side of the control panel in the dash fed it through the rubber grommet that the original was in trimmed to length and attached it to the valve. Bring on the colder weather 🙂
Thanks for your insight on where I may find a manual.

[Griff_in_Fairba]

FYI -- between September 25th and October 4th, I will out of contact and unavailable.

[StingrayL82]

PolCat-76-Avion wrote:
I took out the radio and was able to access the controls. Looks like someone else was in there, white wire tie holding cable in place and the wire is broken. It's a real bugger to get the control loose let alone out. Looks like I will be putting a "choke cable" through the dash and then to the valve. I have a manual for 1976 B100, B200 B300 but not much looks like the MB400. Doesn't even call out the 440 motor only goes to the 318.

You might want to see if Mopar put out a service manual supplement. My MB300 is a 1975, and the service manual I have to use is actually a 1974/1975 service manual, and Mopar printed a 1975 service manual supplement to address any changes for the ‘75 model year. I also have a 1978 service manual and I’m pretty sure it lists the 440. I’m betting the MB400 was lumped in with the heavy duty trucks and is listed in one of those service manuals.

[Griff_in_Fairba]

PolCat-76-Avion wrote:

I can slide the wire into the cable but the slide on the dash does not move. I am thinking it is off the slide or broken off the slide.
Thanks

You're going to need to pull the control panel, located above the ignition switch. Usually one or two screws on the bottom or sides. Careful, the top is usually held in place by a tab on the panel that goes behind the dash sheet metal. After the screws are out, pull the bottom of the control panel a little bit, then the panel downward a bit to release the tab for the dash. (I've seen people break that tab.)

Look for corrosion or gummy lubricate. A bit of PB Blaster or Kroil, allowed time to work, will free it. (Spray cans can get messy so I sometimes spray on a piece of scrap metal and pick it up with a cotton tipped swab to apply it.) It may take a day or three for the PB Blaster or Kroil, applied repeatedly, to free the slider.

Once it's free, clean with brake cleaner. Re-lubricate, preferably with white lithium grease, and reassemble.

Do NOT use electronic contact cleaner! That "attacks" plastic, causing it to disintegrate.

Go slow and don't force things.

If you get stumped, yell and post pictures.

Note: WD-40 really isn't a penetrating oil or a lubricant. It's meant to inhibit corrosion by displacing moisture. (WD-40 = Water Displacement, 40th formulation attempt.)

[PolCat-76-Avion]

I took out the radio and was able to access the controls. Looks like someone else was in there, white wire tie holding cable in place and the wire is broken. It's a real bugger to get the control loose let alone out. Looks like I will be putting a "choke cable" through the dash and then to the valve. I have a manual for 1976 B100, B200 B300 but not much looks like the MB400. Doesn't even call out the 440 motor only goes to the 318.

[StingrayL82]

PolCat-76-Avion wrote:


I can slide the wire into the cable but the slide on the dash does not move. I am thinking it is off the slide or broken off the slide.
Thanks

I didn’t even think about the fact that factory A/C controls would be different from non- A/C MB’s. Do you have the factory service manual? If you don’t, invest the money; it will pay for itself in spades.

[PolCat-76-Avion]

StingrayL82 wrote:


Great looking rig! In order to have easy access to the cable, you have to remove center portion of the dash. In my case I was lucky, because our MB300 was not ordered with factory A/C; Monaco installed an aftermarket unit from ARA that was self-contained in a plastic housing....removing the housing gave me full access to the heater components, which was nice because the ducts were completely rotted.

My cable was frozen too, but in my case it was the valve that sits on the heater core that was completely rusted up. If your valve is in good shape, take care of it, because IF you can get a new one, you're going to pay through the nose for it. I was able to find a NOS unit, but it set me back $125.

What I would do is disconnect the cable at the valve and try sliding it back and forth to free it. Shoot some WD-40 into the cable sheath and slide it some more. That should take care of your problem.

Good luck.

I can slide the wire into the cable but the slide on the dash does not move. I am thinking it is off the slide or broken off the slide.
Thanks

[StingrayL82]

RvFNG76 wrote:
Ok brakes done axle seals done bearings done pinion seal done just finished draining out the gear oil that looked like chocolate milk mixed with garlic mud. Next question is what grade grade oil as it is a limited slip. I do have 3 quarts of 75w90 conventional limited slip oil. Will it work or what's everyone running I've heard the Dana 70 recommends 80w90.

Sorry for not responding sooner to this, I never got the email notification that there was a new post to the thread. When I redid the bearings on our axle, I used Valvoline SynPower 75W140, which is what the Dodge dealership used in my '01 3500 Ram CTD. The motorhome adds a fair amount of weight to the chassis, so the axle needs all the protection it can get, especially if it's getting constant use. The downside is that it's $12.99/qt.

[StingrayL82]

PolCat-76-Avion wrote:
New member here! Just joined the rv.net site. We recently bought a 1976 Dodge Avion 22 foot rv. MB400 chassis 440 engine. It is in really good shape except that a previous owner painted it with a brush.




Now that it is getting colder I tried to slide the temperature selector to heat but nothing happened. The wire was disconnected from the valve in the heater hose. The valve does work the cable doesn't move. How do I get to the back of the heater control part of the dash?

Great looking rig! In order to have easy access to the cable, you have to remove center portion of the dash. In my case I was lucky, because our MB300 was not ordered with factory A/C; Monaco installed an aftermarket unit from ARA that was self-contained in a plastic housing....removing the housing gave me full access to the heater components, which was nice because the ducts were completely rotted.

My cable was frozen too, but in my case it was the valve that sits on the heater core that was completely rusted up. If your valve is in good shape, take care of it, because IF you can get a new one, you're going to pay through the nose for it. I was able to find a NOS unit, but it set me back $125.

What I would do is disconnect the cable at the valve and try sliding it back and forth to free it. Shoot some WD-40 into the cable sheath and slide it some more. That should take care of your problem.

Good luck.

[PolCat-76-Avion]

New member here! Just joined the rv.net site. We recently bought a 1976 Dodge Avion 22 foot rv. MB400 chassis 440 engine. It is in really good shape except that a previous owner painted it with a brush.




Now that it is getting colder I tried to slide the temperature selector to heat but nothing happened. The wire was disconnected from the valve in the heater hose. The valve does work the cable doesn't move. How do I get to the back of the heater control part of the dash?

[RvFNG76]

Ok brakes done axle seals done bearings done pinion seal done just finished draining out the gear oil that looked like chocolate milk mixed with garlic mud. Next question is what grade grade oil as it is a limited slip. I do have 3 quarts of 75w90 conventional limited slip oil. Will it work or what's everyone running I've heard the Dana 70 recommends 80w90.