How many of us are there? Owners of Dodge based RV's?

[whiteknight001]

I'm new here, and curious.

How many of us in Class C own Dodge B300 incomplete
cab/chassis based RV's? I know two others- Steve aka
Ripsaw, with a 1977 Brougham, and Leroy aka 1978_Dodge
_Delta who owns a 440V8 powered sharp looking 1978
Delta RV. I would like to ask, and offer, help, idea
swapping and comparing notes on our particular RV's
which are based on the Dodge B300 van chassis.

Yeah, I know. These are low tech, podgy old RV's that
would be considered "entry level" for folks like me,
but I have a deep and abiding respect for the quality
of these old "monsters of the open road". And anyone
wanting to pick brains, joke about, share notes or just
brag about our old A- Dodge-io's are certainly welcome
to PM or email me. Between all of us we can form a real
good support group, and help each other with problems
we know we'll encounter with an older vehicle.

Sure. I'd love a new RV. But I'd rather have an older
one already paid for, and a lotta great memories. Call
me frugal, an old hippie, or whatever you will. I'm proud
of my old land yacht.

Mopar Madness Manifest in the flesh,

Mark aka White Knight

P.S. Mine's a '72. Is there an older one out there someone's
motorvating in? Maybe even a Travco? W/K

[Griff_in_Fairba]

Trish Davis wrote:
It's wired into one of the fuse blocks on the firewall and activated by its own switch. No "crash switch" because I don't understand what an inertia switch IS.

Here's one source for a crash switch: Ron Francis crash switch

[79powerwagon]

ALnCORY wrote:
Also need to specify, the roof seams have had a layer or two of the paint on aluminum seal stuff applied it looks like. Will eternabond stick to that or will it need to be removed? thanks again

When I did mine last summer, I did it in the hot sun and yanked out the old unit, then used a 2" putty knife and scraped all the 30 year old sealant and repairs back down to the original aluminum. It came off easy in the heat!

Then I washed everything down with denatured alcohol, applied the sealing tape, and bingo! Installed the vent and all is well with the world again! Oh yes, I brushed on new plasti-kote sealer as long as I was sealing up the other seams up there...

Basically, it was one warm afternoon of work to replace 2 broken vents, install a new stack cover, and to seal uo the whole roof.

[ALnCORY]

Also need to specify, the roof seams have had a layer or two of the paint on aluminum seal stuff applied it looks like. Will eternabond stick to that or will it need to be removed? thanks again

[ALnCORY]

Ok, I will be replacing my broken roof vent soon. What is best to clean up around vent area so putty tape will stick best. Also I want to run eternabond on my roof seams, should I use the regular or get the aluminum version as I have the old metal roof? And if I use the aluminum to seal roof seams will it still work to seal around vents covers etc? I know this has probably been answered to death, I need to keep better notes sorry..... A.

[Leeann]

Griff in Fairbanks wrote:
You also might want to consider an out-of-the-way indicator light that tells you when the pump(s) are getting electricity.

We have LEDs mounted above the gauges so we know which one's running. Never thought of a crash switch - I'll tell the bf.

[Trish_Davis]

Griff in Fairbanks wrote:

Leeann wrote:
We put a block-off plate in place of the mechanical fuel pump and put electric fuel pumps on each tank.

Be sure to install a 'crash switch' with the electric fuel pump(s).

In an accident, the fuel pumps can keep running, pumping fuel out all over the place. A crash switch is an inertia switch that cuts off the electricity to the pump(s) when the switch senses a strong impact.

Be sure to wire the pumps to your engine's ignition circuit. Both the accessory and always-hot circuits present the possibility someone might leave the pump(s) running when the engine's off. (Don't do like one guy did and wire the pump(s) into the start circuit.)

You also might want to consider an out-of-the-way indicator light that tells you when the pump(s) are getting electricity.

Wait a minute. I have an electric fuel pump on the Merc...
Never thought to block the existing fuel pump port; I cut the fuel lines and crimped them. Really hard.

It's wired into one of the fuse blocks on the firewall and activated by its own switch. No "crash switch" because I don't understand what an inertia switch IS.

And, Griff, you can hear it run standing outside the car.
Although once I start the engine, you can't....

[Griff_in_Fairba]

Leeann wrote:

ALnCORY wrote:
need to get one of those fancy electric fuel pumps

Yep, they're wonderful inventions 😉

Seriously, they're great. We put a block-off plate in place of the mechanical fuel pump and put electric fuel pumps on each tank.

Flip the switch, let it pump for a few seconds, turn the key and VROOOOOM!

Be sure to install a 'crash switch' with the electric fuel pump(s).

In an accident, the fuel pumps can keep running, pumping fuel out all over the place. A crash switch is an inertia switch that cuts off the electricity to the pump(s) when the switch senses a strong impact.

Crash switches can be salvaged from newer vehicles in junkyards and at least one aftermarket automotive electrical supplier also sells them.

Be sure to wire the pumps to your engine's ignition circuit. Both the accessory and always-hot circuits present the possibility someone might leave the pump(s) running when the engine's off. (Don't do like one guy did and wire the pump(s) into the start circuit.)

You also might want to consider an out-of-the-way indicator light that tells you when the pump(s) are getting electricity.

[Trish_Davis]

countessaisobella wrote:
230239699577
Not only Ugly, but all that lovely overcab storage space gone.... nix it.

It's Klingon.

[Leeann]

ALnCORY wrote:
need to get one of those fancy electric fuel pumps

Yep, they're wonderful inventions 😉

Seriously, they're great. We put a block-off plate in place of the mechanical fuel pump and put electric fuel pumps on each tank.

Flip the switch, let it pump for a few seconds, turn the key and VROOOOOM!

[ALnCORY]

Well I had to pump the bejeebers out of it, need to get one of those fancy electric fuel pumps, but once it got some fuel it took right off. By the time I got it home (40 miles) the tires were all warmed up and it was crusing along just fine. I still have to get the dog house sealed better, lets in some exhaust/gas fumes or something. That will happen when I replace the front carpet. Lots to do first but all in all not bad for 400 bucks.

[Leeann]

Al, it's from the '77 Champion brochure. Champion had something like 3-4 plants in the country making RVs along with manufactured homes then (and now only manufactured homes), but only certain plants made certain models (hence available from Payette ID only). My '73 was actually manufactured in upstate NY, for instance, though Champion's RV headquarters were in Elkhart, IN.

Oh, cool. They don't build stuff like they used to - if you'd let a new vehicle sit all winter I'd bet you couldn't possibly have gotten it fired right up 😉

[ALnCORY]

Wow Leeann, how old is that Champion ad? I see that at least one of the models said available in Payette Id only. That is where I live. There still is a Champion plant north of town but I don;t think they have built anything but manufactured homes for years... at least not in the 24 yrs I have lived here.

In other news I saw Eric started his old beast up over the weekend. I started mine and drove it home from the brothers place. It fired right up and ran pretty good, now I can start on the overhead project again.. anyway its nice to have it back home.

[countessaisobel]

Ah. Ok, well, I sent an email, and here is the response below. Coupled with a less than sterling feedback record....

"Dear countessaisobella,

This is a customized motorhome not one of the stock floorplans. I am selling this for a friend and can't answer very many questions. But for $1600.00, you can't be very pickey.
Thanks for your interest.

- superbee70racing"

Hmm. Makes me think. Yes, $1600 is a good deal, but I will also have to replace the bathroom, and pretty much gut, and redo it. And, yes, I know I will have to do "some" refurbishing on anything, becuase of what I need...

[eyeteeth]

Good News update... A guy who is going to start racing at my club track with his son just happens to not only be an expert at RV renovation & repair, but an extremely nice helpful fellow as well. He was gracious enough to stop by this weekend and look the unit over and give a "start" (or continue) here list. He's willing to stop by occasionally to mentor me through the repairs. YEAH!!!!

So... with the confidence of having someone nearby that can come look at the havoc I've created and offer insight... and the temps finally being warmer... I started tearing stuff out again. I have to get me some masks though, as the dust will probably kill me. The rear wall framing actually this far isn't as bad as I had feared. Yea... some of it will have to be replaced, but only the bottom 1/3rd is showing any really signs of water. Typically it seems to be the whole back wall on these things. So that's encouraging. I don't think I'm going to make my May race... but it will be useable in time for summer for sure.

BTW... several of you are great for finding resources and deals (thank-you) Once this project gets done, I'll be looking for a 12' awning with supports. The original one is long gone. If you happens to run across one... keep me in mind.

[Leeann]

countessaisobella wrote:
Lee Ann,

Did I mention I love you!? Only problem is, the ad says 30 ft, but the floor plan looks like a 27? Time to ask the seller questions!! LOL.

Thank you!!! :B

He probably measured bumper to bumper. The model designations are strange - ours is 24', bumper to bumber but is called a 20',

Ask him if there's still a model 'tag' (it's paper) from Champion inside with the model # on it.