How many of us are there? Owners of Dodge based RV's?

[whiteknight001]

I'm new here, and curious.

How many of us in Class C own Dodge B300 incomplete
cab/chassis based RV's? I know two others- Steve aka
Ripsaw, with a 1977 Brougham, and Leroy aka 1978_Dodge
_Delta who owns a 440V8 powered sharp looking 1978
Delta RV. I would like to ask, and offer, help, idea
swapping and comparing notes on our particular RV's
which are based on the Dodge B300 van chassis.

Yeah, I know. These are low tech, podgy old RV's that
would be considered "entry level" for folks like me,
but I have a deep and abiding respect for the quality
of these old "monsters of the open road". And anyone
wanting to pick brains, joke about, share notes or just
brag about our old A- Dodge-io's are certainly welcome
to PM or email me. Between all of us we can form a real
good support group, and help each other with problems
we know we'll encounter with an older vehicle.

Sure. I'd love a new RV. But I'd rather have an older
one already paid for, and a lotta great memories. Call
me frugal, an old hippie, or whatever you will. I'm proud
of my old land yacht.

Mopar Madness Manifest in the flesh,

Mark aka White Knight

P.S. Mine's a '72. Is there an older one out there someone's
motorvating in? Maybe even a Travco? W/K

[Rhonda_K_]

Hello Everyone,

Just wondering if anyone else has dealt with this.....Thursday we were ready to go camping, my husband started up the Tioga, (it's a 1978 440). It was fine, then backfired, and got loud. We cut it off, looked underneath, and the muffle was blown. Here's the problem: the Tioga has always been in the South, except for 2 years in Indiana, where it stayed outside during the winter. Not a drop of rust on it, until the year before we got it(we got it last year). We need to stop the rust.

Has anyone else dealt with rust? Our mechanic recommended another mechanic to replace the exhaust system. (we aren't doing that). I wasn't sure if we could fix the rust problem ourselves. We are pretty handy, and have my parents as references.....

I would really hate to retire the Tioga, it's paid for, and the interior is like new. We've replaced the tires, belts, water pump, installed smoke and carbon monoxide detectors, and some general upkeep. Eventually we will get something newer, but we love not owning any money on it!

Any suggestions are appreciated,

Thanks,
Rhonda K.

Also, the engine and transmission are in very good shape. The current engine has around 33,000 miles on it, no leaks. The tranmission also was replaced.

[munkalido]

Dannbo wrote:
RHood

Many changes were going on in the early seventies. Cerial numbers were just starting to get organised. The fifth number of the 1974 code was engine. "A" designates 440-3. You can also see just by a visual.

My 24' Beaver Monterey, build on the Sportsman is a 440-1. thought all m/h were 440-3 but i's wrong...

[Rusty_Shacklefo]

RobinHoodRV wrote:
OK, can you explain some of the visual differences? Would really appreciate it!
Thanks in advance.

Look on the passenger side of the engine block just below the cylinder head and towards the back. You should see IIRC a casting #, casting date, and 440-3.

[89southwind]

mine is a 30ft southwind 1989 and I'm only 37 years old like to travel every time I get a chance I do like new MHS but mine is paid off:C

[new_v_er]

Just got back from the first outing of the season. Wow. Why wow?

I had Doug Thorley Tri-Y headers and dual exhaust installed last fall day before the first major snow of the winter. The rig went into storage. We took her out of storage to have the Ride Rite air bags installed. I really did not have her on the road to make a fair assessment.

This weekend, however, I found out how these two modifications were so needed. The 360 can breathe and with it is a major improvement in power, start up and MILEAGE. We crossed the 9.5 MPG into the 10.7-11 mpg range.:B I'll have more reliable averages as the season progresses. The exhaust system has the restrained sound of Detroit muscle.:C

The air ride was a real blessing. We had stiff wind all weekend and the drive to and from was greatly improved in the overall stability and handling of the rig. The body roll was greatly reduced as well. The cosmetics of the suspension improved as well. Looking at the rig as we sat eating some fast food, we noticed how much more "sound" she looked with a level stance. She appeared way more youthful.:B

[RobinHoodRV]

OK, can you explain some of the visual differences? Would really appreciate it!
Thanks in advance.

[Dannbo]

RHood

Many changes were going on in the early seventies. Cerial numbers were just starting to get organised. The fifth number of the 1974 code was engine. "A" designates 440-3. You can also see just by a visual.

[RobinHoodRV]

Hey Dannbo, how can you tell you have a 440-3 and not the more ordinary 440-1?

The 5th digit of the VIN for a Class C is for the motor. For a 440-1 it is a 'D'. I cannot find any informaton that a 440-3 was ever offered in the Class C (cut-away van). Maybe it was only offered in the Class A coaches!?

[Dannbo]

Write down all the names and model numbers of your fridge, furnace, toilet ect and start your search on the net. I found all information on these and more. If the existing companies didn't have the manuals on the internet they sent me to the right spot to find them. I printed them out and put them in clear covers in a binder. Sure makes for a nice book that travells with my motorhome at all times. And you can add to it at any time. Also I searched out and found Dodge chassis manuals on Ebay. The company was Bu****o Reproductions. I'm not sure the spelling is correct on that, but would be glad to look back in my records for you if interested. One of the manuals was an original which is kind of neet and the other two are good photo copies with excellent bindings.

I have a 1974 Dodge Emperor with 440-3 motor that we are restoring. Take a look on my profile if you like and see the project. It was torn down to the frame and all walls,floor and roof are new. I know it's a class a but I feel I have allot more in common with this group of people in this forum than the 36-40 class A guys. Not that there is anything wrong with that!

[proceed_net]

Thanks, HiTech You were right! Went in for the emission teat and "flew" right through. Shocked me! (now i have to learn how to work the gas, hot water, fridge, crapper, and everything electrical!) I have the complete mechanical manual, for the Van part, of my 1977 Dodge Sportsman. However, I have no clue on all of the RV parts! Did it come with an owners manual and, if it did, where can I find it? (ps The Van manual is available if anyone wants to see it.)

[Sportsman76]

HiTech wrote:
Probably no trouble with emissions since it is a truck and not subject to many emissions laws in 1977.

Hi

Do you own a Sportster Model or something different?

[timmac]

Catalytic converters were note used on 70"s rv, my 79 has EGR but don't know if a 77 had one, if its missing one just buy one any where and stick it on and put a vacuum hose on and put vacuum hose under wires to hide, it don't have to work to pass it just has to be there, mine is frozen, wont move so I plugged vacuum hose, it still runs fine no problems and passes emissions test fine.. I don't plan to buy a new if I don't need it.. also put a 1/3 or more of E-85 fuel in your tank before emissions test and drive it till its warm and you should pass test without a problem...

[HiTech]

Probably no trouble with emissions since it is a truck and not subject to many emissions laws in 1977.

[proceed_net]

Been a while. Got the manual for the 77 Dodge Van B300. It's at rvhelp.net. I only drove the 77 Sportsman once last year. When it got warm the tranny slipped. Had to let it cool to get home. Parked it and didn't touch it until this week. Changed the tranny fluid, gasket, and filter. Seems some ass had put oil in it! When hot the fluid would foam and slip! Works fine now. I'm in Denver and I don't know if it'll pass emissions. I see no cataletic converter or EGC, nothing. Hope I'm not in for trouble. Any comments?

[timmac]

I have same factory intake, if you change intake do keep the EGR, I don't know how emission tests is in your state but here in Las Vegas they check for EGR at each test to make sure it has not been removed.