Living with battery (to power TV, fans and charge phones)

[CodyClassB]

I've been thinking about getting a portable generator. After carefully reviewing my power needs, I think I will be fine with a good battery supply .

We have a TV (20 inches) and 2 small fans which can be powered by 12 volt battery. Does anyone here have a good advice on getting a good battery . We do not want to do a lot of maintenance so we prefer something that will be charged when we are driving . We need to have enough power 10 hours of continuous usage.

thank you

[CodyClassB]

1775 and Kimbopolo . I think my RV has the same thing (it is located under the door step). Sorry, Mine is a used rv I recently bought from a used dealer so I am learning how to operate it . The salesperson doesn't not know how to operate it and there is no manual . I posted the photo here along with additional questions hoping someone can help

http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/27457621.cfm

[Kimbopolo]

I have 2 AGMs on my Roadtrek (same model and set-up as Robert above). I have plenty of power. So much so that I won't be getting solar. Of course, I generally drive a lot which keeps my batteries topped off. If I'm boondocking for a time, running the generator about 30 minutes per day seems to do the trick.

[stan909]

200 reserve minutes is for starting batteries. You want a deep cycle battery with amp hours listed.

[CodyClassB]

Thank you all for your answers

[1775]

Cody - What you are looking to do is standard in my Roadtrek. There is a 750 watt inverter/converter/charger installed that manages all electric in the B. There is an engine battery and an AGM coach battery (installed outside the van - I have two AGM coach batteries). There is an isolator installed between the engine battery and the coach battery so that neither system drains the other. Both the coach battery and the engine battery charge when driving and also when plugged into shore power (plus in mine when running the on board generator). Take a look at the Tripp-Lite 3-way units to install with your battery to take care of charging. You will not get a lot of time out of the battery between charges if you run too much on it or for too long.

[pianotuna]

Hi Cody,

There are fewer concerns--until the battery goes into catastrophic failure. When it does--you want it to be vented outside the living quarters.

link to the battery Cody wants

It is always better to plan for worst case scenarios. That way you don't end up as a Darwin award contender.

[CodyClassB]

thanks pianotuna,

If it is a sealed AGM battery such as this one (http://www.amazon.com/Exide-XMC-31-MEGACYCLE-AGM-200-Maintenance/dp/B003FFVI8A/ref=sr_sp-atf_title_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1389223563&sr=1-2&keywords=amg+battery) , can it be charged and discharged in the living area of the van ? are there any safety concerns ?

[pianotuna]

Hi Cody,

Start by beefing up the charging path. To go "whole hog" add an external regulator to the alternator.

Please do not have a 12 volt flooded battery in your living quarters. It really needs to be in a sealed vented box.

One solution might be one of those "snap packs" intended for occasion boosting. They often include a small inverter and can be charged from a cigarette lighter outlet. They have sealed batteries.

[CodyClassB]

stan909, I have a 1999 Great West Van conversion (Dodge body) . it has a couple 12 volt cigarette plugs around the van and I am hoping to install an additional car battery (regular car battery I can find at Walmart) in the back of the van to provide enough power for a small TV and lights . I want to find a way to charge the battery (in the car) while driving to the campground . Do you or anyone else have any good solution for this ?

thanks

[stan909]

Cody. What kind of b do you have and what is the battery storage like ? It almosts sounds to me like you are starting from scratch with a van.

[pianotuna]

Hi,

There are many threads on beefing up the charging path to the "house" battery bank.

[CodyClassB]

Does anyone have any advises on charging a separated automobile battery inside the car ? I've been looking for battery charger on Amazon . Almost all of the chargers use 110 volt AC to charge the battery . That means I have to charge the battery inside the house (or get an DC>AC inverter in order to charge it inside the van). How do you charge your battery ? What kind of charger ? I would like to install the battery permanently inside the van and have the battery charged while driving to the campground.

thanks

[full_mosey]

tplife wrote:

+2 for AGMS as the way to go. They last longer, take A LOT more abuse, can be mounted inside living areas, upside down or sideways, can be discharged lower without damage, etc. The advantages are too numerous to list. :B

Battery Info

I have been 100% AGM since Jan 2009. See my profile for my current configuration. In Jan 2010, I switched the van to AGM for starting service.

For me, I wanted to install inside living spaces and not worry about H gas and acid mist as a regular event during use. AGMs fit that situation.

Do they last longer? I don't know.

Abuse wise, I believe AGMs are better on discharge abuse but worse on charging abuse. Charging abuse is when you use higher volts than recommended. AGMs can be charged by your alternator or any regular automotive charger(not the deep cycle setting). A temperature compensating charger is recommended.

Wets are opposite, with the bigger difference being weaker on discharge due to rapid volt drops especially during higher draws. Higher draws means inverter use, not the 5A draw as with your furnace fan. Volt drops means that your inverter shuts down sooner. Inverters are becomming more common in RVs.

I have never seen an AGM mfgr recommend upside down orientation for installation, however, there is no problem during use as with flying. Side or end is fine. The orientation advantage will mean more choices when fitting a battery into an available space.

On cost, we all know wets are cheaper to buy. After 5yrs the monthly purchase cost is ~$1 for wets and ~2$ for AGMs, based on 100AH. You will soon forget the cost. If you can maintain a wet for less than $1/mo, then they are right for you. Keep in mind that I don't need:

1. a special charger with a deep-cycle, equalizing, and conditioning selection;
2. a hydrometer, a gallon of distilled water, safety glasses, wool pants,
3. a sealed box with holes drilled into my van and TT to let the gasses escape.
4. None of the time associated with the above.

I have discharged my Deka many times down to 11.8V as measured in the AM. That battery tested at 12.8V recently after a 24hr rest.


HTH;
John

[CodyClassB]

Thank you very much . Does anyone have a picture of your "charging system" (ie: charger, battery and inverter") ?

thanks

[booster]

tplife wrote:

pianotuna wrote:
Hi,

If you want zero maintenance then AGM chemistry needs to be seriously considered. A single 8D would possibly meet your needs.

+2 for AGMS as the way to go. They last longer, take A LOT more abuse, can be mounted inside living areas, upside down or sideways, can be discharged lower without damage, etc. The advantages are too numerous to list. :B

Battery Info

I know this can always lead to the wet vs AGM argument, but many would take issue with the data and opinions in the link provided. The decision on batteries is not as clear cut as the author would indicate IMO.

AGMs are nice batteries, no maintenance, minimal venting, high charge and discharge rates possible. They also cost twice as much, have lower capacity for their size, and contrary to the link info there is a lot of info out that would say AGMs are more prone to abuse damage than wet cells, and have similar or lower cycle life. I don't know where the link got their cycle life, but showing the Trojan wet at 1/2 the cycles at 50% isn't what I have seen in the past. And both wet and AGM recommend staying at no lower than 50% DOD for max life with a max discharge of 80%. The claim that AGMs handle the 80% discharge better has not been shown, that I have seen, and the AGM manufacturers don't want you go that low anyway.

AGM salesman will always say they last longer, are tougher, etc to justify the price. The wet cell folks always tout similar or better performance for lower cost and size. The higher rate charging and discharging of AGMs is only useful if you have a very large charger and a very large inverter to make use of the higher rate. AGMs also are less tolerant of bad chargers and overcharging (as in driving long distances with the alternator charging), especially if they are in a hot area.

I am certainly not saying to buy wet cells over AGMs, as both have their places. If you want trouble free, no maintenance, and/or they will be inside, then AGM is the way to go. Just be certain to get a good charger, have it set to the right charging profile, and monitor your use not to drain them too far, or not get them full when charging. If AGMs start to lose capacity from undercharging or too deep of discharges, they are much harder to bring back than wet cells.

If you want the most capacity for the size, and cost, and are willing and able to do the necessary monitoring and maintenance, then wet cells are probably for you.

Just don't believe all you hear from the folks selling the batteries, they are as reliable as car salesman in most cases.