Max range on hydraulic levelers

[Dieter_Heinzer]

I plan to do a lot of boon-docking in my new class A ... Plan to buy next year, but curious how much of an angle a typical 34' class A can correct with standard hydraulic levelers.

If it matters, seriously considering the Allegro 31SA

[ryanallie1]

Hi All.

We also do mostly all Boon-Docking. We have been RV'ers and Boon-Dockers for over 46+ years so far. We have owned a "Truck Camper", and a "Travel Traler" and a "5th WheeL Travel Trailer" also, over all of these years.

And we are firm believers in having a nice slection of "Wood" for Blocking", and aiding in Leveling our RV's. For me the wood has always been "Free". I have mostly all 2X12's, with 45' degree angles on both ends. It sure makes it easy to be able to stack them, and still be able to drive up on them. I'd rather use more than enough peices of wood, than to strain my "Levelers", by having them fully Extended and being strained. So I always haqve enough wood with use to handle almost any angles on a site. I do have my limits that I will stack wood only so high.

It sure do help in Leveling our Motorhome. And it makes it rock soild. I'm sure we all have seen some pretty weird RV's being Blocked up in the air just a bit to darn high. And then watch it wiggle around when the people enter their RV's "Safty", should always be a first concideration.

Good Luck. Happy Travels. Dan & Jill & our two Small "Yorkie Kids", who, love to travel as much as we do.

[Gjac]

I don't think the angle is much maybe 10 or 15 degrees or so. I have the HWH kick down jacks and have rolled off the jacks twice in unlevel sites. One time was at night and could not retract the jacks without driving forward.

[Dale_Traveling]

Pretty much you will be limited by your risk tolerance. Using the jacks as stabilizers first (stopping suspension bounce) and levelers second will minimize potential problems. The least amount of jack extension is always your best practice even if it that means moving to a different spot to set up camp.

Get the curb side too high and the last step off the stairs can get uncomfortably high. The more you have to lift the rear and take weight off the tires limits the braking effect and you risk the coach shifting and potential catastrophic jack damage ($$$$).

Since your travel plans are heavy on boon docking carry along 12" square or so blocks of wood to use under the jacks on potentially soft ground. Sink a jack pad into the ground will delay your departure while you dig out the jack(s).

[Roman_Duck]

Auto levelers are great, but even greater with air ride, dump the air and level her off

[Dieter_Heinzer]

Thanks everyone for your informative contributions. I have 17 years of RVing in my class C and I do know there will be some differences. Even in my 29' C I try to position it so that only the front needs to be "messed with". I do look forward to the ease of pushing a button on the dash and having the unit do all the hard work for me - at least for non-drastic slopes. 🙂

Dreaming of my new Class A is a wonderful yet sometimes agonizing thing; all good things are worth waiting for! Cheers to all.

[Mike_M2]

I already know that most here think it's terrible to get the wheels off the ground, but my waterfront spot at our club is sloped and I have to raise the entire side to get it even. I put 3 sections of 2 by 10's under both right side jacks and raise it even, meaning both tires are off the ground. I have done this a hundred times and haven't had any issues of any kind.

[wolfe10]

You are limited by NEVER raising the rear wheels off the ground (they are your parking brake).

It is desirable to keep the fronts on the ground (touching at least) as well, but not a "have to".

[Golden_HVAC]

Hi,

I can get into some pretty off level sites. I have a 30' Bounder, so a little shorter wheelbase. Sometimes I needed to raise either the front of rear tires on ramps, then use the jacks. Usually if I need to raise any tires, it is more than two levels of 2X10's. Always put the same size blocks under both dual wheels if you have to raise one side of the rear axle. The tire might be rated at 3,500 pounds, but can not pick up the weight of it's neighbor and carry 7,000 pounds.

Sometimes I have needed to put 3-5 layers of blocks under a jack too. Usually I will use some scrap 4X6 or 4x8 material, that will not slip.

If you are boondocking, and can turn around, then it is better to raise the front end than the rear end. Yet if it is a steep slope, parking alongside the slope many times will not require raising any tires, because the 8' width is much less than raising on the 15' long chassis direction.

Fred.

[wa8yxm]

More than you think but less than you may need. I'm not sure, a bubble or two if they work right, If not, a quarter bubble.

I do have a couple rules: Working right you can safely lift ONE front wheel, avoid even that if you can, off the ground, YOU MAY NOT lift a rear wheel off the ground safely.. Jacks cost around 600-700 each plus install.

I have some "Stair steps" tehse consist of 2xtire width slabs.. You put one either in front of or, if possible in back of the "low" wheels.. (I prefer in back of but the steps bother them if its right front tire that's low)

One foot
Two feet long
And a nice three foot one

You then back up one-two-three (Be very careful) steps to level the rig.. I may put a small 2x2 at teh back of the top round.