New Full Time RV'er, Need Some Advice

Tough call on the book, though the tech on MHs has not changed a lot, the '98 just might apply a bit better. The author's name rings a bell.

The last 4 digits of the DOT number on tires of the last decade or more tell month and year of origin, IIRC. Look at cracking on the sidewalls, esp. where it starts to become the tread. If over 6-8 y/o and cracks, you may need $1250 for 6 new ones. But if the vehicle was kept from sun and rain (Awning cover), maybe have a few years still. The infrequent rolling causes RV tire rubber-oils to gel up vs flow thru all the pores.

5+ y/o batteries might be wearing out. A $25 pocket multimeter can give you readings. A steady 12.5-12.6 over several days parked is a good thing. Keep 'em full of distilled water and be sure to disconnect the house (coach) batt when it is not in use - likely you have a house batt disconnect switch. Some folks install a simple disconnect switch on the engine (chassis) batt also to disconnect when idle for a few weeks. There seem to be things in RVs that place parasitic current drains on one or both batts.

Do not run generator when plugged into shore AC power. Exercise generator (genset) by running 30 min a month and under a load (heat up water, turn on lights, or run air conditioned)>

Learn how the house battery can start the generator and an emergency start toggle switch at the drivers area can be pressed and this will start a dead engine batt.

Chech tire inflation, maybe buy a small $50 air compressor and air guage to monitor and fill every few months or so.

Watch for roof leaks and monitor/redo caulk (use Dicor special non petrol on rubbery sheet roofs)

Others can chime in. How well it was stored and exercised by owners will dictate current condition.

It all comes fairly naturally.

Here's a few good Blogs and they will lead you to many more.
Hope this helps!

Cheap Green Living

Gypsy Journal

RV dreams

Thank you everyone for you comments! We definitely plan on staying in a campground for a little bit to see how things work. The tires is a good point we'll definitely look into that more. I was looking at the book RV Repair and Maintenance by Bob Livingston. Would any of you recommend that? There is a newer edition and a 1998 one. Since ours is older should we get the older edition? We are looking to update it with Solar panels so I'm not sure if the newer one would be more helpful. Thanks so much everyone!

I would like to reinforce to you the importance of all of the advice that has been posted above. I would add that the fresh water tank and system should be sanitized prior to use, and if your unit is equipped with a generator the oil, plug, and filter should be changed unless you have written evidence that it was done in the last year. Welcome to the forum and see you down the road. Bob

Howdy!

You may want to consider attending one of the Escapees "RV Boot Camp" it a very good learning experience for new RVer's and even ones that have been at it for awhile.

"Happy Trails"
Chiefneon

Take the unit and a car to an RV park or campground close to your home. Live in it for a few days (cook, use bathroom, dump, fill water, wash dishes, check the frig, furnace and AC. If there is a problem or forgot something you're near home.

Settle in for a few days - enjoy and learn.

Welcome to RVing

Make sure tires are the proper type and less than 6 years old by date codes on the tires. RV tires become failure prone just sitting parked, undriven. Brakes are important to your safety also. Front flexible brake lines should be replaced if not recently replaced, they can fail internally causing loss of control. Brake fluid should be purged and replaced every couple of years as it collects moisture which leads to brake fade/failure on grades. All belts and hoses and cooling system should be checked and serviced to keep engine cool on grades at high altitudes. Of course dash and roof AC, RV generator, furnace, water heater,fridge and microwave should be operating properly. The converter charger must be charging the house batteries properly when you are plugged into 120vac shore power or running the generator. House batteries should read over 13 volts if they are being charged properly, have proper eleoctrolyte levels and connections are good.Most of the appliances have electronic controls that operate on 12 volts DC from the house batteries.

There's lots more but these are basics. Buy a cheap multimeter and learn how to use it to check battery voltage, etc. The engine's alternator charges house batteries while you are driving. The converter charger does not charge the engine's starting battery. Learn simple procedure for switching from 120vac shore power to generator power and vice versa. Knowledge and preventive action can save you grief and expense when you are many miles from home and help insure your pleasure and comfort.

Flexibility and patience is the key. You will learn. This forum is a great resource. Also other campers you meet along the way will be more than happy to share their knowledge. Look for Fleetwood clubs and forums. Here's a couple: http://www.irv2.com/forums/f107/
https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Fleetwood_RV/info
Relax and enjoy!

To be honest, regardless of condition you've been told it's in, it is a 30 year old house on wheels and will need constant attention and work. Full-time RVing is a joy, but you need to make sure you budget appropriately for repairs you will need to have completed. Since you're not mechanically inclined prepare to pay over $100 an hour for any work done. I've seen too many people on this forum get disgusted with an older RV thinking it should be good for years to come without any attention, because it "looked to be in great shape". You need to be a realist when considering future costs to fully enjoy the lifestyle you've decided to embark upon. Good luck and don't be a stranger.

Did you (or the previous owner) put new tires on it? If the tires are over 6 yrs old, I'd be very leery of the mechanic's opinions.