New water pump won't work

[djbroughton]

We were not able to get out of Alberta quick enough this year to avoid a good freeze which trashed my water pump. When we got down south I discovered it was leaking badly from the housing and completely had drained my fresh water tank. I replaced the pump with an identical 55aquajetARV but the new one is not working. I have reviewed all the threads on this website and Monaco IRV2 forum and have tried most of the suggestions ie: 1. toggling between city and tank fill handle 2. power is going to the pump on the positive lead is at about 10 volts (why not 12 v?) 3. all fuses are intact 4. I don't know if city hookup will work because I am currently boondocking in California.

Photo is at:

http://s1348.photobucket.com/user/djbroughton/media/waterpump_zps04e313b1.jpg.html

Any other ideas?

[Mutha]

You have an "OPEN" in the "BLACK" wire that goes from the "LATCHING CONTROLLER" to the water pump. There is a 4 wire harness plug that connects the 4 wires of the "LATCHING CONTROLLER" to the main pump harness - when you unplug and re-plug this harness together the "PRONGS" on the "LATCHING CONTROLLER" harness plug will force out (move backwards) some of the prongs on the main pump harness that creates an "OPEN". I think that may have happened to you. The "LATCHING CONTROLLER" provides a "GROUND" to the pump to turn it on. You can use a jumper wire from the "LATCHING CONTROLLER" BLACK (LOAD) wire to the Black pump GROUND (LOAD) wire to test this. If the pump still doesn't run with a known good jumper - then your "LATCHING CONTROLLER" module is bad (which I doubt is the case). The low voltage reading is correct as the diodes in the "LATCHING CONTROLLER" will make the voltage to the POSITIVE feed appear low.

[djbroughton]

McRvguy wrote:

djbroughton wrote:

McRvguy wrote:

djbroughton wrote:

powderman426 wrote:
10 volts??? You have a dead battery. check your converter and fuses.

Batteries are good. This one is a mystery, voltage doesn't seem to change whether water pump switch is on or off.

It wont if the controller which grounds out the pump and allows it to run is bad or has bad connections!!

So tomorrow when I get some daylight to work, I will have a closer look at the "Intellitec Latching Controller". Service manual seems to be at:

http://www.intellitec.com/index.php/products/Motor_Controls/Water_pump_controllers/Water_Pump_Control

I'm looking for a loose ground connection to the pump or other loose wires, right?

Loose +or corroaded Ground connections to the pump at the controller or bad controller.

Thanks, will keep everyone posted.

[McRvguy]

djbroughton wrote:

McRvguy wrote:

djbroughton wrote:

powderman426 wrote:
10 volts??? You have a dead battery. check your converter and fuses.

Batteries are good. This one is a mystery, voltage doesn't seem to change whether water pump switch is on or off.

It wont if the controller which grounds out the pump and allows it to run is bad or has bad connections!!

So tomorrow when I get some daylight to work, I will have a closer look at the "Intellitec Latching Controller". Service manual seems to be at:

http://www.intellitec.com/index.php/products/Motor_Controls/Water_pump_controllers/Water_Pump_Control

I'm looking for a loose ground connection to the pump or other loose wires, right?

Loose +or corroaded Ground connections to the pump at the controller or bad controller.

[Jagtech]

Dune Hauler wrote:
If you are reading 10 volts you may be reading through the lighted switch bulb not the switch, you may have a bad switch. Test the pump on jumpers straight to the battery first to rule out the pump.

X2 on this. Good probability the control panel switch is flakey; not entirely bad, just dropping a couple of volts due to high resistance. Jumper the switch to easily diagnose this.

[djbroughton]

McRvguy wrote:

djbroughton wrote:

powderman426 wrote:
10 volts??? You have a dead battery. check your converter and fuses.

Batteries are good. This one is a mystery, voltage doesn't seem to change whether water pump switch is on or off.

It wont if the controller which grounds out the pump and allows it to run is bad or has bad connections!!

So tomorrow when I get some daylight to work, I will have a closer look at the "Intellitec Latching Controller". Service manual seems to be at:

http://www.intellitec.com/index.php/products/Motor_Controls/Water_pump_controllers/Water_Pump_Control

I'm looking for a loose ground connection to the pump or other loose wires, right?

[McRvguy]

djbroughton wrote:

powderman426 wrote:
10 volts??? You have a dead battery. check your converter and fuses.

Batteries are good. This one is a mystery, voltage doesn't seem to change whether water pump switch is on or off.

It wont if the controller which grounds out the pump and allows it to run is bad or has bad connections!!

[djbroughton]

rgatijnet1 wrote:
If you up-graded the pump, you may have exceeded the amp capacity of the existing wiring. I know some pumps say they will not work right on wires smaller than 12 gauge, etc. Check the pump requirements as to the wire size. This would also explain the low voltage at the pump if the supply wires are too small for the new pump.

I replaced the OEM pump with exactly the same model because I needed to limit potential problems with a different pump. Now I'm glad I did this because I've got enough on my hands with the current problem .

[rgatijnet1]

If you up-graded the pump, you may have exceeded the amp capacity of the existing wiring. I know some pumps say they will not work right on wires smaller than 12 gauge, etc. Check the pump requirements as to the wire size. This would also explain the low voltage at the pump if the supply wires are too small for the new pump.

[McRvguy]

indyzmike wrote:
Dune hauler is right, you have to check voltage at the pump with the pump hooked up. The meter will read voltage with no load, but the load can drag the voltage down.

He is doing that as he has posted several times.The pump works fine as he has also attested to this.I feel He has a controller or relay or possible a grounding issue based on what I know about those systems.

[indyzmike]

Dune hauler is right, you have to check voltage at the pump with the pump hooked up. The meter will read voltage with no load, but the load can drag the voltage down.

[McRvguy]

Dune Hauler wrote:
If you are reading 10 volts you may be reading through the lighted switch bulb not the switch, you may have a bad switch. Test the pump on jumpers straight to the battery first to rule out the pump.

OP says: I plugged the pump directly into the 12 v system via a cig. lighter in the storage compartment. The pump worked great.

[Dune_Hauler]

If you are reading 10 volts you may be reading through the lighted switch bulb not the switch, you may have a bad switch. Test the pump on jumpers straight to the battery first to rule out the pump.

[McRvguy]

djbroughton wrote:

McRvguy wrote:

liberty2010 wrote:
have you charged the batteries?
Take the pump out and bench test it with some jumper wires on your driving vehicle battery. If it is working you will hear it.

OP says batterys are good?

I plugged the pump directly into the 12 v system via a cig. lighter in the storage compartment. The pump worked great. I'm thinking weak ground? I still get 12+ volts directly at the battery and ~8-10 volts at various points in the OEM wiring harness.

go and read my last post here about relays and controllers and check voltages at those items

[djbroughton]

McRvguy wrote:

liberty2010 wrote:
have you charged the batteries?
Take the pump out and bench test it with some jumper wires on your driving vehicle battery. If it is working you will hear it.

OP says batterys are good?

I plugged the pump directly into the 12 v system via a cig. lighter in the storage compartment. The pump worked great. I'm thinking weak ground? I still get 12+ volts directly at the battery and ~8-10 volts at various points in the OEM wiring harness.