Newer RVs that are hard to winterize.....grrrrr

[Deb_and_Ed_M]

So today Ed and I wandered over to a Florida CW dealer to look at some new, smaller Class C's in the 22 to 24' size. It's been 3 years since we sold the trusty, entry-level 28' C we owned previously - the one where we could open the lower door and SEE how much water was in the fresh tank; and could access (easily) the pump to switch the 3-way valve so it would suck antifreeze directly from the bottle. We could winterize that thing in under 10 minutes - it was easy.

We were admiring the nice airy floorplan of a Thor Freedom Elite 23' - it was perfect, in my mind - and then in a flash of brilliance, I asked where the water pump was. We searched everywhere. Turning on the pump switch didn't help - the battery was disconnected it seems. Finally, our salesgirl went and got someone from the service department - he wasn't much help; but we all deduced that it *might* be between the outer wall and the freshwater tank under the screwed-down dinette seatbase. Assuming that was it - it was in an incredibly-awkward spot for a procedure that needs to be done at least once - or multiple times if you live in the north and use your RV 😞 And if you spill antifreeze - it will be INSIDE the RV.

Hoping to get more insight - we moved over to the same make in a 22' length, and were stymied again. We moved to a Forest River Forester - a massive creature; and of course it had the winterizing system all set up and ready to go. But this particular dealer didn't have any small FR models on hand. I finally apologized to our salesgirl - she had been very helpful, but I told her that not being able to winterize the RV quickly and easily was a deal-breaker for us. I feel bad for the newbies who don't know to look for details like this.

I've been on RV.net for over a decade and have read many complaints about RV designs that make no sense from a utilization standpoint; and now I realize we're about to experience that, too. Ugh.

Are there any 21-to-25' entry-level Class C's with easy access to the water pump?? I'm perfectly capable of adding a 3-way valve to the intake of the pump for winterizing - I just need to get AT the pump to do it.

Deb

[Snowman9000]

It sends water through the whole system except for the pump and points upstream of it.

Also, sometimes when winterizing, people forget to get the water out of the city water fill line.

The check valve should not be too strong. Here is a Camco kit that just uses a hand pump.

http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/plastic-winterizing-hand-pump-kit/4411

By my way of thinking, if doing it this way, you had better drain your pump first. Then reconnect and winterize.

Nice booklet from Camco:
http://www.camco.net/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/winterizeRV.pdf

[Bumpyroad]

Deb and Ed M wrote:
Does the city water inlet, send water through the whole system? Just a random thought: I have a "Little Giant" pool cover pump that I could drop into a bucket of antifreeze and pump into the water system. Will that get down to the pump?? I suspect the answer is "no" - trying to picture how the water lines ran in the old C where I could actually SEE the plumbing, I think the only water that went into the pump came from the FW tank....

I tried something similar with a boat bilge pump and the spring on the input anti backflow valve was too strong.
bumpy

[Deb_and_Ed_M]

Does the city water inlet, send water through the whole system? Just a random thought: I have a "Little Giant" pool cover pump that I could drop into a bucket of antifreeze and pump into the water system. Will that get down to the pump?? I suspect the answer is "no" - trying to picture how the water lines ran in the old C where I could actually SEE the plumbing, I think the only water that went into the pump came from the FW tank....

[samven1]

I guess I will have to get a filter and dryer. I have a small oil-less compressor but it does not have a tank and I dont think it puts out enough air to blow out the lines. I will still be using the pink stuff at least for the traps, toilet and to draw some into the pump. I dont see how blowing the lines will get the water sitting in the pump out and I like to have a liquid seal in the toilet.

[DrewE]

My (inexpensive, oil-lubricated direct drive) air compressor does not seem to leave any noticeable traces of oil in the air. I wouldn't think that any properly operating compressor would. (That's not to suggest that it is air of laboratory grade purity.) If you have an automatic oiler for air tools in the air line, that would by design add a bit of oil to the air, and ought to be disconnected or bypassed (and probably a different hose used) for winterizing an RV.

I do have a cheap inline air filter with a catch bowl for condensation in the air line. I've never seen any condensation caught in the bowl; it all seems to end up in the tank for the compressor, as I would expect, and from there I drain it frequently.

[Bumpyroad]

Mocoondo wrote:
In any case, a haze in the air is better than any amount of frozen water.

so is a little of the pink stuff. which can be removed easier than an oil film.
bumpy

[Mocoondo]

A simple filter/dryer on your air line takes care of anything significant in your compressed air. In any case, a haze in the air is better than any amount of frozen water.

[Snowman9000]

Yes, this is a concern. Kudos for bringing it up because I've never seen in mentioned. One way would be to buy a cheap little oil-less compressor for this purpose. I used to use a big compressor to blow out the lines, but I never felt that one was oily. Still, I use a little cheapie oil-less one now. I would guess that if you have an oiled compressor, you should spring for the painting dryer.

[Deb_and_Ed_M]

samven1 wrote:
Do most people just use the air direct from the compressor tank or do you run it through a paint sprayer dryer.

Good point - our compressor does that, too.

[samven1]

I have been thinking about getting the fitting to blow the water lines out but have put it off because I have noticed that I get an oily water from the air hose. It is nothing that you would normally see but I have felt it when operating the impact wrench and air saw that exhaust on my hand. I thought it was just the tool so I put a blower on the hose and blew into a paper towel and got an oily damp spot on the towel. Do most people just use the air direct from the compressor tank or do you run it through a paint sprayer dryer.

[Deb_and_Ed_M]

Snowman9000 wrote:
Just so we are clear, the Sunseeker and Forester pump and stuff is in an outside compartment, which is a polyethylene tub. The tub has a drain plug, but you will still be toweling the floor of it dry. But it's not the same as the systems inside bed or dinette cabinets.

Yes (and I still think that's smarter than putting it under the bed!)..... just got back from looking at a 2015 Thor Chateau 24c - I didn't see the water pump or FW tank; but there is an access panel on the raised floor under the shower, and the front corner of the bed is clearly hinged (but also screwed down, so I couldn't open it) - so both of those locations are inside the "house" and probably locations for the pump....sigh. The 2012 Leprechaun 230CB has me stymied - the pump is NOT under the bed because I can see all of that from the storage underneath. The Leprechaun also lost a gold star because Ed (at 6'3") walked towards the bathroom (in the "raised" portion of the MH) and bumped his head on the ceiling. Ooops. It has a few other "issues" like a missing TV - so if it sells cheaply enough, Ed can learn to duck.... 😉

[Olddud]

Deb and Ed M wrote:
I've also heard of people adding pet doors and using the underbed area for litter boxes).

Ha, I did that. Cat loves it.

[Snowman9000]

Just so we are clear, the Sunseeker and Forester pump and stuff is in an outside compartment, which is a polyethylene tub. The tub has a drain plug, but you will still be toweling the floor of it dry. But it's not the same as the systems inside bed or dinette cabinets.

[Deb_and_Ed_M]

Bea PA wrote:
Our 2012 24 ft Winnebago has a hole in the plywood under the bed. You can see the water tank and turn the 2 valves needed to winterize.

Aha! I have seen pictures of 23-24' "corner queen bed" models that look like there's some sort of access door at the corner of the bed - I'll bet that's what I'm seeing (although I've also heard of people adding pet doors and using the underbed area for litter boxes). I'm resigned to winterizing from the inside of the MH - I guess with a few towels to wipe up any spills, it will be OK.

[Bea_PA]

Our 2012 24 ft Winnebago has a hole in the plywood under the bed. You can see the water tank and turn the 2 valves needed to winterize.