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Norcold 1200LRIM Issues

proaspen
Explorer
Explorer
I own a 2006 Fleetwood Bounder, 35E with a Norcold 1200LRIM 4-door refrigerator. Got back from a trip and heard beeping from the refrig. Door was "saying" "No AC". Apparently I did not have it set for Auto. So, I changed it to Auto, shut the refrig down and turned it back on. It switched to LP and you can hear the burner firing. I have electricity to the refrig, panel light is on and the internal refrigerator light is on. However, if I set it to run on AC, I get the "No AC" error and a beeping ensues. I'm also concerned about the LP side. As I mentioned, the burner is running, and the refrig is cooling and freezer is freezing. However, the burner is not running smoothly it is making popping sounds while running. I am also having to set the temperature MUCH colder to get the refrig to get to below 40*. Am thinking the problems are outside my limited ability and will need to call in a mobile repair service. Will do that on Monday. Am hoping I may get some guidance/confirmation on the forum. Thanks folks!!
8 REPLIES 8

ArchHoagland
Explorer
Explorer
Thanks for the update, glad to hear all is well!!!
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proaspen
Explorer
Explorer
Thanks to everyone who responded. Problems resolved: (1) Fuse was, indeed, blown. Replaced and refrig is operating normally. (2) Removed and cleaned burner tube. Gas sounding normal to me now.

Current temp in refrig: 35* F.

Thanks again to all who responded. This is a great, very helpful forum!!

Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays to All!

Respectfully,
Gary Provencher
Southern Pines, NC

RayChez
Explorer
Explorer
I agree with the issue could be on the black box on the outside. I believe it is a 5amp fuse.
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RLS7201
Explorer
Explorer
As for your propane issue, you probably have rust flakes laying on the burner. Also the burner tube will get full of carbon specks and need to be blown out. That's just a matter of removing the burner cover and cleaning.

Richard
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Executive45
Explorer III
Explorer III
If you open the black box on the back of the fridge, you'll see the fuse there. It's one of the old glass ones. Just make sure you replace it with the EXACT same type. They are available at Home Depot....Dennis
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DFord
Explorer
Explorer
You can try plugging the refrigerator into an extension cord plugged in the 20amp pedestal outlet to see if it still complains about "no AC). The cord from the refrigerator is behind it inside the compartment accessible from the outside. Open the panel access door to find it.

If that works, figure out why the receptacle doesn't have any power. It's more than likely on a GFCI circuit - make sure you can reset it.

If the receptacle has power, there's fuse on the control board under a plastic cover on the back of the refrigerator that could have blown if the heating element is shorted (bad). If so, the element will need to be replaced.
Don Ford
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Flute_Man
Explorer
Explorer
My 120 V outlet that my reefer is plugged into is controlled by a GFCI. You might check and make sure you don’t have a GFI tripped somewhere on the same side as the refrigerator maybe a bathroom. Like said above, verify that the 120 V outlet is working properly.
Jerry Parr
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ArchHoagland
Explorer
Explorer
Remove the panel outside and make sure you are getting 110 volts to the AC outlet that the refrigerator is plugged into.

Did you by any chance have your RV washed during the trip? I went to a truck wash place ONCE and they power washed it. My Norcold refrigerator was dead for a day.
2004 Monaco La Palma 36DBD
Workhorse W22 8.1 Gas Allison 1000, 7.1 mpg

2000 LEXUS RX300 FWD 22MPG 4020 LBS
US Gear Brakes