โApr-24-2016 06:36 AM
โMay-02-2016 07:12 AM
k9dad wrote:
Question about refrigerator cooling during preparation for a trip. Does it cool faster when plugged into electric (in my driveway) or just leaving the propane on and cooling that way?
Thanks for any input.
โMay-02-2016 04:57 AM
smkettner wrote:
Propane is faster for me. Gets started before I pull out of storage. No need to plug in when packing.
โMay-01-2016 07:17 PM
โMay-01-2016 06:41 PM
โMay-01-2016 05:46 PM
โMay-01-2016 08:19 AM
mrsportys wrote:
The real question is...do you run propane while your driving ( vs having the generator on) ?
โMay-01-2016 06:57 AM
โApr-24-2016 06:07 PM
โApr-24-2016 05:18 PM
prstlk wrote:
What's important to note is these units are not refrigerators in the conventional sense. They don't cool but rather absorb heat. The best thing to remember is what ever you put in the fridge, pre cool it. As you travel introduce warm items gradually. Don't put 2 12 packs in and expect cool in 12 hours.
Pre cool your fridge 2 days before your leaving and gradually add the stuff.
Jmho
โApr-24-2016 04:48 PM
โApr-24-2016 02:48 PM
Jim@HiTek wrote:
Two door refer, 1 person usage, 3 amp when calling for cold, 8 hours/day average On time (I avoid hot areas), $0.085/kWh rate. For me, it comes out to around $90 per year.
โApr-24-2016 12:18 PM
DrewE wrote:Jim@HiTek wrote:
If you turn it off whenever you return from a trip, you'll likely get 7 to 10 years of useful life so I always leave mine plugged in and on all the time. The pluses for leaving it plugged in and running continuously (it's ready to go when you are!) far outweigh the minimal power usage. Your batteries are always ready too.
As far as which method cools fastest? Never saw a much of a difference those few times I had to shut it off. But my gut feeling is for my Dometic, gas was faster. Slightly. My Norcold? Seems faster with electric. I'd tend to agree that there's not enough difference to be concerned.
That "minimal power usage" of an RV fridge is somewhere in the rough vicinity of 2000 kWh per year, or perhaps $400 for the year depending on your electric rate. Maybe that's minimal to some people, but it's more than enough for me to shut it off when not in use and start it up (or do without) before taking a trip.
For a quick trip, I usually just toss perishable food into a cooler and dump in the ice from my (house) freezer.
โApr-24-2016 11:35 AM
dougrainer wrote:
The BTU output of 120 and LP are almost identical. There are factors that affect how well and fast either source cools better. BUT, BOTH will be equal as long as all operational parameters are to spec.
1. 120 line voltage will affect 120 operation. Anything below 114 volts will not allow best 120 cooling.
2. LP gas pressure and the condition of the burner and burner Chimney will affect best LP cooling. Low(below 11 inches W/C) it will not cool as well. Dirty burner or Chimney will not allow the Heat BTU's to be efficient.
Last, for some reason some think because it is a HOT flame, it MUST cool better. NOT SO. The Flame itself cannot heat the boiler system to operational temps. So, ALL RV refers have a metal spiral baffle in the Chimney just above the flame. THAT spiral baffle causes the LP flame to disperse into a round heat source to heat the Boiler system efficiently. The 120 element is attached to that boiler system and is 6 to 8 inches long and transfers its heat directly to the boiler system. Remove that baffle and the LP would not cool at all. So, BOTH LP and 120 are even in cooling. A reason to run on LP would be if you have verified that the CG or source of 120 is below 114 volts. This may happen in areas where high RV usage and AC running has dropped the line voltage. Doug
โApr-24-2016 11:23 AM