Removing Atwood water heater plug photo added

[ezgoin]

What's the easiest way to remove a Atwood water heater plug? I can barely fit
my adjustable wrench onto the plug and can only turn it less than 1/8 of a turn at a time due to tight access.

Curious as to what the black wire is that's connected to the clamp. The long bolts limit access to the drain plug




Thanks!

[JR45]

To remove the plug, I use a Crowfoot Wrench
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-10-pc-standard-crowfoot-wrench-set/p-00904362000P
JR

[PaulJ2]

Ranger Smith wrote:
I use our 4 way tire iron. One of the sockets fits perfect no muss no fuss.

X2 4 way lug wrench works fine for me too.

[ezgoin]

ezgoin wrote:
DUH!!!! I didn't have to replace any bolts. I loosened both bolts slightly and rotated the clamp slightly to the left which raised the bolt closest to the drain plug enough that I can get a socket extension through. Sometimes the simplest option is the least obvious. Go figure!

That's exactly what I did. Thanks.

[oldkeywest91]

the black wire is a ground wire to the copper tubing.if it helps you can just loosen the screws and turn the clap out of your way.

[wolfe10]

Totally agree. OK (actually GOOD) to ground the propane line, but it should be done and is generally done on the metal line close to the tank. Since (and here I am ASSUMING) your propane lines are either iron or copper, no need to a second ground connection as they are all electrically connected.

Just throw that one away if the line is grounded elsewhere/ground it elsewhere and THEN throw it away.

[jwmII]

ezgoin wrote:
Here's my issue. Bolts on clamp are too long. What is this wire that's clamped on here?




That clamp is an electrical ground wire clamp. If it is on the gas line ,Remove it and seek another area(like on the frame) to ground the wire. That will allow you access to the drain plug when you remove the clamp from that gas line. Using a dissimilar metal plug from what the heater tank is made of will setup electrolysis and erode the aluminum heater tank and could even******up the plug and threads so bad that you cannot remove it.

[enblethen]

White wire is electrical is only used as neutral and in special cases can be used for power but must be marked. Bonding is done only with green or bare.

[10forty2]

enblethen wrote:
ckwjl, I would install a plastic fitting in the tank and then use the brass check valve.
10forty2, that is unnecessary as the iron gas line is grounded to the chassis through the mounting brackets.

Could be unnecessary as you say, but that's how mine is done also...except they used a white bonding wire instead of a black wire on my coach. White is the standard color for bonding wire in residential wiring. When I questioned the same thing in my mind as the pipe already being grounded, I decided to trace the white wire and sure enough it was bonding the section of pipe inside the water heater compartment to itself on the section of pipe under the coach and then to the chassis through the pipe mounts. It's actually a fairly common practice since the flow of LP through the pipe can cause static buildup just like the flow of gasoline through a fill nozzle can cause static buildup. It just ensures a solid bond to eliminate static. That's why they always recommend that you don't take your hand off the fuel filler nozzle while fueling...so you don't cause the static to discharge. In keeping in contact with the nozzle, you are bonded to the nozzle and can't cause a potential difference for an electrical charge and hence an avenue for a spark to jump across. 🙂

[mccsix]

Ck the wire for continuity to ground or voltage, then remove the clamp do your plug thing and re-install the clamp with shorter bolts.

[ezgoin]

DUH!!!! I didn't have to replace any bolts. I loosened both bolts slightly and rotated the clamp slightly to the left which raised the bolt closest to the drain plug enough that I can get a socket extension through. Sometimes the simplest option is the least obvious. Go figure!

[enblethen]

ckwjl, I would install a plastic fitting in the tank and then use the brass check valve.
10forty2, that is unnecessary as the iron gas line is grounded to the chassis through the mounting brackets.

[10forty2]

Tha black wire on the propane pipe is a bonding wire to bond the metal pipe to the chassis and ensure that no sparks are created from static or other sources.

[NEOK]

Iagree you shouldn't ground to a gas pipe. Not sure why you would clamp anything to it. Why not replace the screws with shorter ones and maybe get more clearance. I use a socket on a T handle to remove mine. It fits easily under the gas line.

[ckwjl]

enblethen wrote:
T&P is not brass, they are bronze.
The hollowed out nylon Atwood plugs, according to Atwood tech, may blow out rather then rupturing tank if freezes.

Slightly off topic, I might have messed up. The plastic nipple/check valve in the hot water outlet of my Atwood WH cracked and I replaced it with a brass one. I thought brass would be better than plastic. Is brass okay or should I go back with plastic?