Rust!!!

[Monkeyman_and_L]

Okay, so since my last trip with my truck/trailer combination ended in brake failure (no injuries or damage thankfully) I'm a bit concerned about the Ford Chassis RV units.

Ford seems to be oblivious to the rust problems in their brake lines. Our good old buddies at NHTSA don't seem to offer anything of real value except "inspect your lines and replace them if they look rusty."

Anyone have information on this? The Newmar and Tiffin Gas units are high on our list of candidates, but if the undersides or lines become rust issues, I'll abort.

Thanks

[Chum_lee]

Regular maintenance and visual inspection is the key to minimal problems. I ALWAYS clean and grease the guide pins when changing brake pads and I replace the guide pin boots if necessary too. Works wonders for keeping the calipers freed up. Pads last longer too.

Unfortunately you can't see inside the brake lines but you can see bulging/cracked hoses and dirty brake fluid. IMO, most people ignore it until there's a problem. Ever price an ABS unit?

Chum lee

[rgatijnet1]

Stainless steel brake lines have been available on SOME high end vehicles, and as after market products for decades.
Anyone that wants to install them on any of their vehicles can do so as they can either be bought or fabricated by any one that is handy and wants to spend less than $50 for the tools. The tubing and fittings can be bought at an auto supply store and the tools needed are a DOUBLE flaring tool, a tubing bender, and a tubing cutter.
Stainless steel brake lines do cost a FEW dollars more than the standard galvanized steel brake lines but on a typical RV I would guess that the increased cost is only about $40 for stainless over galvanized.

[hipower]

Monkeyman_and_Lady wrote:
Why am I concerned about this? Look it's not going to be just those of us who live in areas where salt is applied on the road that will have this issue. We're talking about a safety issue. My mother always held the notion that she didn't care if the car could accelerate...if it can't brake and steer, you're in a deathtrap.

I have had a number of cars over the years, and this is the first one to have brake line failure. Ford changed something to shave weight on the truck to increase MPG. I'll gladly pay for a few extra gallons of gas if I can reliably stop the truck.

Saw where Newmar says they undercoat the motorhome standard. Going to find out what they mean by that and see how they do it and what they use.

I won't throw any manufacturer under the bus for brake line failure. It is not uncommon and no manufacturer is immune. Your statement that you have never had a failure simply says you haven't experienced a failure. You have been fortunate especially if you keep vehicles for longer periods, like over ten years. I have operated fleets of vehicles for many years, both hydraulic and air brake systems, and brake line failure isn't unusual.

As others have pointed out the brine solutions used for snow and ice removal today are extremely hard on all underbody metals including aluminum.

My 2003 Newmar Dutch Star has not been immune to underbody rusting. It is a constant source of work to attempt keeping ahead of it and not completely successful. Good luck with whatever choice you make for vehicles going forward, but my advice would be simple, suck it up and face the fact that you will see more rust and corrosion than in the past regardless of manufacturer.

[Monkeyman_and_L]

Why am I concerned about this? Look it's not going to be just those of us who live in areas where salt is applied on the road that will have this issue. We're talking about a safety issue. My mother always held the notion that she didn't care if the car could accelerate...if it can't brake and steer, you're in a deathtrap.

I have had a number of cars over the years, and this is the first one to have brake line failure. Ford changed something to shave weight on the truck to increase MPG. I'll gladly pay for a few extra gallons of gas if I can reliably stop the truck.

Saw where Newmar says they undercoat the motorhome standard. Going to find out what they mean by that and see how they do it and what they use.

[Archie_Kravitz]

I thought I as the only one that had the rust problems. E350 Left front brake line swedge cover rusted in two and line pulled off. 40,000 miles.
Lucky it was an uphill stop when it pulled in two.. Back brakes wouldn't hold it at idle.

[Dennis12]

Go on Conklins site to see where you can buy it in your area. Nothing any better. I have a plow truck that is in constant salt in the winter. Pressure clean it in the spring and spray it on the rust. The next day the rust is black and rust is 100% stopped.

https://www.conklin.com/

Rust Bomb® Super Penetrating Oil
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Find a distributor to purchase Rust Bomb® Super Penetrating Oil

Loosens rusty fasteners and parts
Penetrates quickly, breaking down rusty corrosion buildup on nuts, bolts – even hinges. Just a few sprays helps loosen the toughest rust in the tightest places. Ideal for lawn and garden tools, boats, docks or any equipment frequently subjected to moist, wet conditions.

[allbrandauto]

as a auto shop owner I have done 100 times more rusted brake lines in the last 10 years than the previous 30 years all makes and models its the road salt they are using if you don't drive your motorhome on those roads you should be ok but always good to look at your lines

[rockhillmanor]

10forty2 wrote:
Just because I wanted to, I replaced the brake lines and calipers a couple years ago. This is a 1999 model with 80K miles on it. I mainly did it because I was worried about the old caliper slide pins sticking due to gummed up grease/dirt and the potential for the

rubber portion of the brake lines to have deteriorated

. I had no indication prior that there was a problem, but I wanted to have this done....... after the replacement, my mechanic showed me that one caliper showed indications of a sticking slide pin and the brake pad showed some irregular heating, and the hydraulic lines looked almost new. With that said.....I DO feel more confident now that those components are new and the braking system has been checked.

Like said above.....spend a little now for preventive maintenance and evaluations, and get peace of mind when you are traveling that everything is in as good a shape as you can.

X2

I, unfortunately learned the hard way about front brake lines, by almost died exiting an off ramp and the brakes went out.

Put new brakes prior to my trip on but did not replace the rubber brake lines. They looked just fine.....on the outside.....they collapsed on the inside.

Font brake line failure a 'very' common problem on the Ford, as the mechanic said as he ordered new OEM ones for me while I was still shaking from the off ramp ordeal.

Regarding the rust?
If you live and drive where there is snow and ice and drive on salted roads or live near the coast with salt? That certainly is not the problem of the manufacturer's.

There is maintenance involved in that too. Like keeping up on power washing the underside before the rust starts. And/or if just sitting parked in the snow, routinely driving it.

[wa8yxm]

I don't care to start an arguement about Ford v/s others but it seems to me that Ford seems to feel that if you Crash your ride you will buy another one

Another company I know of seems to feel if you wear out your ride without dying you will buy another one.. Thus they make a safer ride.

[Mortimer_Brewst]

Speaking of preventative maintenance, replaced your brake fluid lately? That's one of those "easy to ignore" jobs.

[10forty2]

Just because I wanted to, I replaced the brake lines and calipers a couple years ago. This is a 1999 model with 80K miles on it. I mainly did it because I was worried about the old caliper slide pins sticking due to gummed up grease/dirt and the potential for the rubber portion of the brake lines to have deteriorated. I had no indication prior that there was a problem, but I wanted to have this done....... after the replacement, my mechanic showed me that one caliper showed indications of a sticking slide pin and the brake pad showed some irregular heating, and the hydraulic lines looked almost new. With that said.....I DO feel more confident now that those components are new and the braking system has been checked.

Like said above.....spend a little now for preventive maintenance and evaluations, and get peace of mind when you are traveling that everything is in as good a shape as you can.

[fitznj]

Prevention is better than a cure. Once a year I take my TV to a good shop and
ask them to check the whole vehicle over. They put it up on a ramp and check it, including items such as ball joints, fuel lines, radiator hoses, brakes, shocks, steering box etc.

Last year they spotted a ball joint that was showing slight bit of wear and a bolt on the hitch was slightly loose.

Well worth the 2 hours of labor I get charged for some piece of mind

[Dutch_12078]

Our previous 1995 Class A on a Ford F53 chassis had zero brake line problems, despite extended runs in upstate NY, PA, etc, in the winter. Our current 2001 Class A on an F53 chassis that runs the same roads did get a pinhole leak in the front brake line where a wire harness covering had rubbed the coating off. That resulted in losing the front brakes, but I was able to make a temporary roadside repair and continue our trip. About $30 at NAPA for a new line and coupling did the job right, and the rest of the lines look ok.

[Bruce_Brown]

I'm not sure what you're asking. If you live in a rust belt area then you're going to have rust.

Where we're at they use both salt and salt brine - it's tough on stuff. Vehicles don't die mechanically, they corrode to death, and the brand doesn't matter.

A friend of mine just retired his Saturn. Mechanically it's top notch, the frame is shot. Unfortunately that's not uncommon where salt and brine are used.

And that's just one more reason our MH has never seen snow. :B