Sealant for cracks..

[NaViDa]

Hi,

I've search here, without success, for topics on what type sealant is best for cracks around the edges of skylights and such on my rooftop, so i'll just ask you all instead now.

What do you suggest a fulltimer living in Southern Nevada's extreme dry hot summers use?

I can see sealants have been used before, so should i remove the old for the new, also??

TIA!

[doubleG]

Acryl-R or E-bond tape

[Dale_Traveling]

donsuefuggrwe wrote:
If you cannot get the eternabond tape off what do you do when it is necessary to replace a skylight or holding tank vent or fridge vent etc.

You can scrap the tape off using a heat gun and plastic scraper just the same as caulk. A bit harder since Eternabond does harden like caulk which is the advantage with of the tape rather than caulk. Once taped it's sealed for the like of the roof.

I use RoofSeal for lap seams (vents, skylights, front and rear caps). For the other stuff (ladder, tank and fridge vents, TV antenna) my roof looks like magik235's with Dicor self leveling. It maybe overkill but I don't worry about roof leaks. A labor of love.

[NaViDa]

John&Joey wrote:
It's up to you, but all of the above is overkill. Since you're FT'ing ask around in the park to see what others do, not just the internet.

I think you'll find most simply scrub the old caulk clean (brush, dish soap, water, let dry) then maybe even clean it up a tad more with mineral spirits (JUST the old caulk NOT the roof.) If they find any caulk that is lifting off the roof then that is removed with a plastic scrapper and a hair dryer.

Once that is all done then a thin coat of Dicor self leveling goes over the clean old stuff to fill in the cracks. Some skylights require a special caulk as not to become brittle and crack. You'll need to read up on what you have.

You should be good for another 5-10 years. I think most on this forum mistake yearly inspections with doing it every year. If that was really the case then I would hate to buy a new rig and expect an easy life.

Here is a good video clip of a FT'ing couple and how they do it.

Video Clicky.

After reading each informative post, i wouldnt deem what i've learned here to be overkill but simply somewhat different ways to get pretty much the same job done. I dont live in a park but on private land surrounded by only 3 other large homes on acres of land within a culdesac. Each owner has an RV(s) but i dont think i need to ask them about this job, i will for sure need one or two of them to help me put up my Solar Panel Kit. YIPPEE!!:D

So after everything, including watching a video of a female like myself do the job i need to do, I've decided to go with new caulk and the Eternabond Products.

Thanks Everyone Again!!

[JR45]

This is where I got mine, 4"
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=11341
You will need a 2" roller and some cleaner of some kind, I used the spray.
JR

[John_Joey]

It's up to you, but all of the above is overkill. Since you're FT'ing ask around in the park to see what others do, not just the internet.

I think you'll find most simply scrub the old caulk clean (brush, dish soap, water, let dry) then maybe even clean it up a tad more with mineral spirits (JUST the old caulk NOT the roof.) If they find any caulk that is lifting off the roof then that is removed with a plastic scrapper and a hair dryer.

Once that is all done then a thin coat of Dicor self leveling goes over the clean old stuff to fill in the cracks. Some skylights require a special caulk as not to become brittle and crack. You'll need to read up on what you have.

You should be good for another 5-10 years. I think most on this forum mistake yearly inspections with doing it every year. If that was really the case then I would hate to buy a new rig and expect an easy life.

Here is a good video clip of a FT'ing couple and how they do it.

Video Clicky.

[MRUSA]

doxiemom11 wrote:
Remove old caulk - put new one and then eternabond tape. You won't have to worry about it again.

Doxiemom is right. This is the best way to do it. Let the new caulk cure for several weeks before applying he Eternabond. Once the Eternabond goes down, the new caulk is sealed in place and cannot be deteriorated by sun and/or weather.

[MRUSA]

donsuefuggrwe wrote:
If you cannot get the eternabond tape off what do you do when it is necessary to replace a skylight or holding tank vent or fridge vent etc.

Cut through it.

[donsuefuggrwe]

What type of eternabond do you use? There are several different types.

[donsuefuggrwe]

If you cannot get the eternabond tape off what do you do when it is necessary to replace a skylight or holding tank vent or fridge vent etc.

[JimM68]

The original factory job on our Monaco (fiberglass roof) used eternabond tape at all straight lines, including sealing the front and rear cps to the roof, and dicor lap sealant on the small stuff, wire entries, etc.
So far, at 5 years old, it's all still like new.

[NaViDa]

magik235 wrote:
I use EternaBond roof tape and Dicor caulk.

Yes, that makes sense, THANK YOU!

[magik235]

I use EternaBond roof tape and Dicor caulk.

[NaViDa]

Dale.Traveling wrote:
6" tape is pretty wide. The wider tape is a bit harder to work with and get a nice looking job. Plus it costs more. This is one of those times that 'The bigger the glob the better the job' isn't a good idea. Consider a 2" or 4" 50' roll. Extra is good to have incase you get a puncture. Keep the extra in a zip lock bag and it will last forever.

Once you stick the tape to something it's stuck. No pulling it up and starting over and it you somehow get it stuck to it's self there's no recovery. If you look at my images that is 2" tape. Easy to work with and gives good coverage for flat over lapping surfaces.

The cleaner and roller you can probably pass on. A quick wipe with acetone followed by a shot of Windex will give you a good clean surface. I have a roller and my thumb does a just as good of a job.

Take your time getting the tape down. Watch the various You Tube videos for the tricks to make the job easier. Go slow so you don't get air bobbles since a bobble is impossible to get out. Any job longer than 12 inches draw a reference line to keep the tape going in the right direction.

Good luck.

Thanks,

This is the video that led me to that product.
RV Roof Repair & Vent Maintenance

[Dale_Traveling]

6" tape is pretty wide. The wider tape is a bit harder to work with and get a nice looking job. Plus it costs more. This is one of those times that 'The bigger the glob the better the job' isn't a good idea. Consider a 2" or 4" 50' roll. Extra is good to have incase you get a puncture. Keep the extra in a zip lock bag and it will last forever.

Once you stick the tape to something it's stuck. No pulling it up and starting over and it you somehow get it stuck to it's self there's no recovery. If you look at my images that is 2" tape. Easy to work with and gives good coverage for flat over lapping surfaces.

The cleaner and roller you can probably pass on. A quick wipe with acetone followed by a shot of Windex will give you a good clean surface. I have a roller and my thumb does a just as good of a job.

Take your time getting the tape down. Watch the various You Tube videos for the tricks to make the job easier. Go slow so you don't get air bobbles since a bobble is impossible to get out. Any job longer than 12 inches draw a reference line to keep the tape going in the right direction.

Good luck.