sgueaky door while driving

[Grannycamper]

We have a 2011 Winnebago Access 27ft. The door squeaks like crazy when we are driving. Like a Styrofoam cooler rubbing another Styrofoam cooler. Doesn't bug me as much as my husband. Has anyone else had this problem and fixed it?

[DrewE]

Since it's the side door, ignore my suggestion about the bunk board. :B

Squeaks can be annoyingly hard to pinpoint. I hope you find the cause and are able to get whatever is moving and squeaking to be still--or at least quiet.

[Photomike]

If the above does not work try using the deadbolt as well. Sometimes the latch is weak.

Another thing I have found is that the screen door has room to move and it makes more noise than a lot of other things combined. Put a foam bock between the screen door and the regular door and that stops it.

[RambleOnNW]

We have the case if the deadbolt is set but the handle latch is not the entry door will really rattle going along the road.

Unfortunately checking to see if the door is locked by pulling the handle latch undoes the handle latch. So have to be careful that both are set for us.

[Harvard]

Grannycamper wrote:
Thanks for all the suggestions. I have read them all and will try some things once we are home and have supplies. It is the entrance door to the camper not the cab doors. We are on our very first rv trip. Took the month of October to go from Maine to Boise (grandkids), then Yellowstone and on our way home now. Squeaky sound goes away on smoother roads. Again thanks for suggestions.

So, do you throw the dead bolt or do you just use the handle latch?

[Grannycamper]

Thanks for all the suggestions. I have read them all and will try some things once we are home and have supplies. It is the entrance door to the camper not the cab doors. We are on our very first rv trip. Took the month of October to go from Maine to Boise (grandkids), then Yellowstone and on our way home now. Squeaky sound goes away on smoother roads. Again thanks for suggestions.

[lane_hog]

WD-40 is a better solvent than it is a lubricant. Did a great job cleaning out a 10 year old door latch on our mini-van, but it still needed white grease as a long-lasting lubricant.

[Sam_Spade]

harold1946 wrote:

WD40 is a lubricant. Once the hydrocarbons have evaporated a light film of oil remains.

It is not simple oil, Harold. If it was it probably wouldn't have taken them 40 tries to get it right.

What it leaves is a clingy, sticky film that only functions as a lubricant until it thoroughly dries......which ranges from hours to a couple of days.

But you don't have to believe me, just ask any professional watchmaker or gunsmith.

[Rolin]

We also had an annoying squeak on our Winnebago Aspect. I tried all kinds of things to make the door stop squeaking. Then found the problem was the cover over the converter/power center next to the door.

[klutchdust]

My "styrofoam" squeaky noise was the wood frame of the entertainment center( my Cambria does not have an overhead bunk) rubbing against the side of the coach. i sprayed with silicone lube then it came back. i removed the speaker covers to expose more wood frames that were stapled together and I sprayed a tiny bead of expandable foam sealer to tighten the joints. Squeak chasing is do able, a new stereo with nice speakers eliminated quite a few squeals and rattles. Wood on wood sounds like styrofoam.

[soren]

Here is a cheap fix that can do wonders for squeaky Winny entrance doors. I found it on another site, tried it on mine, it worked, tried it on my buddy's, and it worked.
Take a look at where the latch wraps around the strike bolt when the door is closed. You might see some shiny metal area on the top of the bolt, and close to the mushroom head on the end of the bolt. If so, this is where the latch is rubbing, and squeaking, on the bolt as the rig rattled down the road. The cure is to take a bit of electrical tape and wrap three, or so, tight wraps around the bolt. In my case it stopped the horrible squeak, and it lasts for a while. When the noise returns I know that the latch has chewed though the tape and I need to replace it.

[harold1946]

Sam Spade wrote:

jimintomah wrote:
I have the very same problem with the latch on our 2011 Cambria 30C. I just keep a small can of WD40 or similar product handy and spray the area when needed.

WD40 is NOT a good lubricant; never was intended to be.
Yes, even chapstick is better.

Even better would be a dab of white lithium grease or silicone brake grease.

WD40 is a lubricant. Once the hydrocarbons have evaporated a light film of oil remains.
There is also a silicone lubricant offered under the WD40 brand name.

[Sam_Spade]

jimintomah wrote:
I have the very same problem with the latch on our 2011 Cambria 30C. I just keep a small can of WD40 or similar product handy and spray the area when needed.

WD40 is NOT a good lubricant; never was intended to be.
Yes, even chapstick is better.

Even better would be a dab of white lithium grease or silicone brake grease.

[jimintomah]

I have the very same problem with the latch on our 2011 Cambria 30C. I just keep a small can of WD40 or similar product handy and spray the area when needed. I have adjusted the lock several times but it doesn't seem to help much. I can see a wear pattern on the latch pin. I've even used Chapstik in a pinch and it really does make a difference.

[DrewE]

Sam Spade wrote:
Window was mentioned. Does the noise change drastically is the window is lowered an inch or so ?

Also since you mentioned Styrofoam.....sometimes there IS rigid foam insulation inside the door panels.

Along the same lines, it would be most helpful with diagnosis to know which door you're talking about--in particular whether it's one of the cab chassis doors or an entrance door in the house part of the motorhome. The two do vary considerably in construction and hardware.