Hi. I'm assisting the owner of a 2010-vintage Class B, gasoline powered on a Chevy Van chassis. We're upgrading it with LFP batteries in the rear. I'm a bit concerned that they will tend be "drained down" by a lower voltage SLA/AGM "Chevy" battery under the hood, unless I put in some sort of separation scheme. My first idea is to put in a DC-->DC 20A Renogy "Boost then regulate downwards", with Lithium charge settings. But I worry slightly about something:
With the interconnect being only 20A maximum, I must hook up the starter of the Onan Generator to one side *or* the other. Pulling considerable cranking amps, I'm inclined to wire it into the "Chevy" side exclusively. (If the "starting battery" and alternator can't generate enough Amps for the Onan, while the "Chevy" engine is running, then I think I have a battery problem in the Chevy - not a need to steal power form the Lithium. The Lithium can do 200A for 10 seconds, but not more than that. I SWAG that the Onan might want more in cold weather or high alititude.)
OP - Can't help, but I think most if not all class Bs have a battery isolator that allows the coach batteries to be charged with the engine alternator, but doesn't allow the engine battery to draw from the coach batteries.
Susan & Ben [2004 Roadtrek 170] href="https://sites.google.com/view/pasusan-trips/home" target="_blank">Trip Pics
Instead of guessing, measure the start up amperage of the Onan.
I'm leaning to SiO2 because of cold--and also they can do 900 amps from a 100 amp-hour battery.
Regards, Don My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.